Hello to All and Happy Holidays
I will be pulling Rhapsody in the next 2-3 weeks and need some assurance on winterizine her 1GM. I will follow the instructions in the manual, but are there any "tricks" I should know?
This will be the first time in my sailing career that I have had to winterize and just dont want to mess something up....
Thanks again and Happy Holidays from the Ice Clad Hills of Oklahoma!!!
Bill
cd25d@rhapsodysails.com
Winterizine 1GM ??'s
Moderator: Jim Walsh
-
Don Sargeant
Re: Winterizine 1GM ??'s
Happy Holidays to you.
All you need to do is put the intake hose in a bucket of 50% Glycol, run the engine until the antifreeze comes out of the exhaust, change the oil, spray a little WD 40 here and there and you're done.
Don Sargeant
~~COQUINA~~
CD25D #189
Nestled in her stands in Greenwich Cove
All you need to do is put the intake hose in a bucket of 50% Glycol, run the engine until the antifreeze comes out of the exhaust, change the oil, spray a little WD 40 here and there and you're done.
Don Sargeant
~~COQUINA~~
CD25D #189
Nestled in her stands in Greenwich Cove
Bill wrote: Hello to All and Happy Holidays
I will be pulling Rhapsody in the next 2-3 weeks and need some assurance on winterizine her 1GM. I will follow the instructions in the manual, but are there any "tricks" I should know?
This will be the first time in my sailing career that I have had to winterize and just dont want to mess something up....
Thanks again and Happy Holidays from the Ice Clad Hills of Oklahoma!!!
Bill
-
Larry DeMers
Re: Winterizine 1GM ??'s
Don and Bill,
It's not that simple. You have a thermostat in series with the waters path, which will be totally closed off until the engine warms up..which takes my MD7B almost 30 minutes running time in gear to do.
If you start the engine and just stick the intake hose into the antifreeze, you will indeed get pink stuff out the exhaust. It's because the thermostat is closed and bypassing the antifreeze around the engine directly to the exhaust elbow.
What I have done for 11 years is to run the engine in gear to heat it up to the 190 deg. mark (where the thermostat opens fully), then stick the intake hose into an ice cream bucket full of RV type antifreeze good to at least -50 deg.F. This does work.
Someone else had a great idea..taking the hose that carries the water to the engines mixing elbow and remove it from the elbow, and route it's content back to the ice cream bucket. Now the antifreeze will go thru the engine, come out the mixing elbow hose into the ice cream bucket which in turn gets resucked back up by the engine. It's a closed loop system, which means that the temps will rise more quickly in the coolant, since it is being reheated over and over again.
The only caveat I would add is to keep an eye on the exhaust hose temp, as there is no water in there to cool it down. The report I read this morning says that the person that suggests doing this has seen no problems so far, but I have read of hoses melting or distorting because of heat..so keep an eye for this happening.
Reason I run my engine in gear at the dock, for 30-60 minutes is due to my experience when I pulled the engine for an overhaul a few years back. I winterized it, then had it pulled so that it could be worked on over our wintertime. After the engine was out of the boat, I saw a petcock on the engines side, behind the fuel injector pump, and hidden from the normal front view I had. I opened this petcock, and it drained and drained pure water..no pink antifreeze in it at all. There had to be a good quart or two of water leaking out. This would have been bad news to allow to freeze..probably fatal to the engine in our temps (we reach -35deg F (actual temp) during January most years).
Don't forget to pull the impellor out now also..so that it does not take a 'set' with 1 or 2 vanes collapsed, as these will not straighten out in the summer.
Cheers!
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30 ~~~~Shivering, on Lake Superior~~~
demers@sgi.com
It's not that simple. You have a thermostat in series with the waters path, which will be totally closed off until the engine warms up..which takes my MD7B almost 30 minutes running time in gear to do.
If you start the engine and just stick the intake hose into the antifreeze, you will indeed get pink stuff out the exhaust. It's because the thermostat is closed and bypassing the antifreeze around the engine directly to the exhaust elbow.
What I have done for 11 years is to run the engine in gear to heat it up to the 190 deg. mark (where the thermostat opens fully), then stick the intake hose into an ice cream bucket full of RV type antifreeze good to at least -50 deg.F. This does work.
Someone else had a great idea..taking the hose that carries the water to the engines mixing elbow and remove it from the elbow, and route it's content back to the ice cream bucket. Now the antifreeze will go thru the engine, come out the mixing elbow hose into the ice cream bucket which in turn gets resucked back up by the engine. It's a closed loop system, which means that the temps will rise more quickly in the coolant, since it is being reheated over and over again.
The only caveat I would add is to keep an eye on the exhaust hose temp, as there is no water in there to cool it down. The report I read this morning says that the person that suggests doing this has seen no problems so far, but I have read of hoses melting or distorting because of heat..so keep an eye for this happening.
Reason I run my engine in gear at the dock, for 30-60 minutes is due to my experience when I pulled the engine for an overhaul a few years back. I winterized it, then had it pulled so that it could be worked on over our wintertime. After the engine was out of the boat, I saw a petcock on the engines side, behind the fuel injector pump, and hidden from the normal front view I had. I opened this petcock, and it drained and drained pure water..no pink antifreeze in it at all. There had to be a good quart or two of water leaking out. This would have been bad news to allow to freeze..probably fatal to the engine in our temps (we reach -35deg F (actual temp) during January most years).
Don't forget to pull the impellor out now also..so that it does not take a 'set' with 1 or 2 vanes collapsed, as these will not straighten out in the summer.
Cheers!
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30 ~~~~Shivering, on Lake Superior~~~
Don Sargeant wrote: Happy Holidays to you.
All you need to do is put the intake hose in a bucket of 50% Glycol, run the engine until the antifreeze comes out of the exhaust, change the oil, spray a little WD 40 here and there and you're done.
Don Sargeant
~~COQUINA~~
CD25D #189
Nestled in her stands in Greenwich Cove
Bill wrote: Hello to All and Happy Holidays
I will be pulling Rhapsody in the next 2-3 weeks and need some assurance on winterizine her 1GM. I will follow the instructions in the manual, but are there any "tricks" I should know?
This will be the first time in my sailing career that I have had to winterize and just dont want to mess something up....
Thanks again and Happy Holidays from the Ice Clad Hills of Oklahoma!!!
Bill
demers@sgi.com
-
Bill Goldsmith
Freshwater Cooled Engines are Different, Right?
Larry,
Please correct me if I am wrong, but I wanted to point out what I believe to be a big difference between winterizing a raw water cooled engine and winterizing a freshwater cooled engine. (Not to confuse things, but here in NY we would call it a "saltwater cooled" vs. "freshwater cooled" but that terminology doesn't really apply to Gitche Gumee)
On my 27 a prior owner repowered with a Yanmar 2GM20F. It has a heat exhanger. (The freshwater side contains antifreeze although the manual does state that you can use water)
To winterize the freshwater cooled engine you indeed can just suck in the -50 antifreeze because that fills the raw water side of the heat exchanger. You do not need to trip the thermostat because that's in the freshwater side. As long as you are using good antifreeze in the freshwater side, you are now basically winterized.
Another point. It is advisable to change the oil BEFORE winterizing so that when you start the engine to draw through the antifreeze, you coat the innards with new oil.
I hope the above is right, because that's what I have done this year and it's been pretty cold here in New York.
All the best.
Bill Goldsmith
goldy@bestweb.net
Please correct me if I am wrong, but I wanted to point out what I believe to be a big difference between winterizing a raw water cooled engine and winterizing a freshwater cooled engine. (Not to confuse things, but here in NY we would call it a "saltwater cooled" vs. "freshwater cooled" but that terminology doesn't really apply to Gitche Gumee)
On my 27 a prior owner repowered with a Yanmar 2GM20F. It has a heat exhanger. (The freshwater side contains antifreeze although the manual does state that you can use water)
To winterize the freshwater cooled engine you indeed can just suck in the -50 antifreeze because that fills the raw water side of the heat exchanger. You do not need to trip the thermostat because that's in the freshwater side. As long as you are using good antifreeze in the freshwater side, you are now basically winterized.
Another point. It is advisable to change the oil BEFORE winterizing so that when you start the engine to draw through the antifreeze, you coat the innards with new oil.
I hope the above is right, because that's what I have done this year and it's been pretty cold here in New York.
All the best.
Bill Goldsmith
Larry DeMers wrote: Don and Bill,
It's not that simple. You have a thermostat in series with the waters path, which will be totally closed off until the engine warms up..which takes my MD7B almost 30 minutes running time in gear to do.
If you start the engine and just stick the intake hose into the antifreeze, you will indeed get pink stuff out the exhaust. It's because the thermostat is closed and bypassing the antifreeze around the engine directly to the exhaust elbow.
What I have done for 11 years is to run the engine in gear to heat it up to the 190 deg. mark (where the thermostat opens fully), then stick the intake hose into an ice cream bucket full of RV type antifreeze good to at least -50 deg.F. This does work.
Someone else had a great idea..taking the hose that carries the water to the engines mixing elbow and remove it from the elbow, and route it's content back to the ice cream bucket. Now the antifreeze will go thru the engine, come out the mixing elbow hose into the ice cream bucket which in turn gets resucked back up by the engine. It's a closed loop system, which means that the temps will rise more quickly in the coolant, since it is being reheated over and over again.
The only caveat I would add is to keep an eye on the exhaust hose temp, as there is no water in there to cool it down. The report I read this morning says that the person that suggests doing this has seen no problems so far, but I have read of hoses melting or distorting because of heat..so keep an eye for this happening.
Reason I run my engine in gear at the dock, for 30-60 minutes is due to my experience when I pulled the engine for an overhaul a few years back. I winterized it, then had it pulled so that it could be worked on over our wintertime. After the engine was out of the boat, I saw a petcock on the engines side, behind the fuel injector pump, and hidden from the normal front view I had. I opened this petcock, and it drained and drained pure water..no pink antifreeze in it at all. There had to be a good quart or two of water leaking out. This would have been bad news to allow to freeze..probably fatal to the engine in our temps (we reach -35deg F (actual temp) during January most years).
Don't forget to pull the impellor out now also..so that it does not take a 'set' with 1 or 2 vanes collapsed, as these will not straighten out in the summer.
Cheers!
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30 ~~~~Shivering, on Lake Superior~~~
Don Sargeant wrote: Happy Holidays to you.
All you need to do is put the intake hose in a bucket of 50% Glycol, run the engine until the antifreeze comes out of the exhaust, change the oil, spray a little WD 40 here and there and you're done.
Don Sargeant
~~COQUINA~~
CD25D #189
Nestled in her stands in Greenwich Cove
Bill wrote: Hello to All and Happy Holidays
I will be pulling Rhapsody in the next 2-3 weeks and need some assurance on winterizine her 1GM. I will follow the instructions in the manual, but are there any "tricks" I should know?
This will be the first time in my sailing career that I have had to winterize and just dont want to mess something up....
Thanks again and Happy Holidays from the Ice Clad Hills of Oklahoma!!!
Bill
goldy@bestweb.net
-
Larry DeMers
Re: Freshwater Cooled Engines are Different, Right?
Hi Bill,
Well, for crying out loud..of course..you are correct! I am 'raw water'-centric I guess. Sorry. My comments obviously 'hold water' ONLY if you have no heat exchanger onboard...and that is the assumption that you were answering.
Boy..that one has caught mne a couple times. I agree..the term Salt-Water cooled makes me understandwhich version one is talking about a lot better than raw vs. fresh water cooled. Oh well...back to the charts for next summers trips.
Cheers and Happy Holidays All,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
demers@sgi.com
Well, for crying out loud..of course..you are correct! I am 'raw water'-centric I guess. Sorry. My comments obviously 'hold water' ONLY if you have no heat exchanger onboard...and that is the assumption that you were answering.
Boy..that one has caught mne a couple times. I agree..the term Salt-Water cooled makes me understandwhich version one is talking about a lot better than raw vs. fresh water cooled. Oh well...back to the charts for next summers trips.
Cheers and Happy Holidays All,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Bill Goldsmith wrote: Larry,
Please correct me if I am wrong, but I wanted to point out what I believe to be a big difference between winterizing a raw water cooled engine and winterizing a freshwater cooled engine. (Not to confuse things, but here in NY we would call it a "saltwater cooled" vs. "freshwater cooled" but that terminology doesn't really apply to Gitche Gumee)
On my 27 a prior owner repowered with a Yanmar 2GM20F. It has a heat exhanger. (The freshwater side contains antifreeze although the manual does state that you can use water)
To winterize the freshwater cooled engine you indeed can just suck in the -50 antifreeze because that fills the raw water side of the heat exchanger. You do not need to trip the thermostat because that's in the freshwater side. As long as you are using good antifreeze in the freshwater side, you are now basically winterized.
Another point. It is advisable to change the oil BEFORE winterizing so that when you start the engine to draw through the antifreeze, you coat the innards with new oil.
I hope the above is right, because that's what I have done this year and it's been pretty cold here in New York.
All the best.
Bill Goldsmith
Larry DeMers wrote: Don and Bill,
It's not that simple. You have a thermostat in series with the waters path, which will be totally closed off until the engine warms up..which takes my MD7B almost 30 minutes running time in gear to do.
If you start the engine and just stick the intake hose into the antifreeze, you will indeed get pink stuff out the exhaust. It's because the thermostat is closed and bypassing the antifreeze around the engine directly to the exhaust elbow.
What I have done for 11 years is to run the engine in gear to heat it up to the 190 deg. mark (where the thermostat opens fully), then stick the intake hose into an ice cream bucket full of RV type antifreeze good to at least -50 deg.F. This does work.
Someone else had a great idea..taking the hose that carries the water to the engines mixing elbow and remove it from the elbow, and route it's content back to the ice cream bucket. Now the antifreeze will go thru the engine, come out the mixing elbow hose into the ice cream bucket which in turn gets resucked back up by the engine. It's a closed loop system, which means that the temps will rise more quickly in the coolant, since it is being reheated over and over again.
The only caveat I would add is to keep an eye on the exhaust hose temp, as there is no water in there to cool it down. The report I read this morning says that the person that suggests doing this has seen no problems so far, but I have read of hoses melting or distorting because of heat..so keep an eye for this happening.
Reason I run my engine in gear at the dock, for 30-60 minutes is due to my experience when I pulled the engine for an overhaul a few years back. I winterized it, then had it pulled so that it could be worked on over our wintertime. After the engine was out of the boat, I saw a petcock on the engines side, behind the fuel injector pump, and hidden from the normal front view I had. I opened this petcock, and it drained and drained pure water..no pink antifreeze in it at all. There had to be a good quart or two of water leaking out. This would have been bad news to allow to freeze..probably fatal to the engine in our temps (we reach -35deg F (actual temp) during January most years).
Don't forget to pull the impellor out now also..so that it does not take a 'set' with 1 or 2 vanes collapsed, as these will not straighten out in the summer.
Cheers!
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30 ~~~~Shivering, on Lake Superior~~~
Larry DeMers wrote:Don Sargeant wrote: Happy Holidays to you.
All you need to do is put the intake hose in a bucket of 50% Glycol, run the engine until the antifreeze comes out of the exhaust, change the oil, spray a little WD 40 here and there and you're done.
Don Sargeant
~~COQUINA~~
CD25D #189
Nestled in her stands in Greenwich Cove
Larry DeMers wrote:Don Sargeant wrote:
demers@sgi.com
-
Don Sargeant
Confusion's my fault!
Guys,
Of course there's a difference. I have a fresh-water cooled Westerbeke. The raw-water cooled (so-called in New England) Yanmar does need to be warmed up to open the thermostat.
My apologies fr the confusion.
Don Sargeant
~~COQUINA~~
Cd25D #189
Cooling her heels in Greenwich Cove.
Of course there's a difference. I have a fresh-water cooled Westerbeke. The raw-water cooled (so-called in New England) Yanmar does need to be warmed up to open the thermostat.
My apologies fr the confusion.
Don Sargeant
~~COQUINA~~
Cd25D #189
Cooling her heels in Greenwich Cove.
Larry DeMers wrote: Hi Bill,
Well, for crying out loud..of course..you are correct! I am 'raw water'-centric I guess. Sorry. My comments obviously 'hold water' ONLY if you have no heat exchanger onboard...and that is the assumption that you were answering.
Boy..that one has caught mne a couple times. I agree..the term Salt-Water cooled makes me understandwhich version one is talking about a lot better than raw vs. fresh water cooled. Oh well...back to the charts for next summers trips.
Cheers and Happy Holidays All,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Bill Goldsmith wrote: Larry,
Please correct me if I am wrong, but I wanted to point out what I believe to be a big difference between winterizing a raw water cooled engine and winterizing a freshwater cooled engine. (Not to confuse things, but here in NY we would call it a "saltwater cooled" vs. "freshwater cooled" but that terminology doesn't really apply to Gitche Gumee)
On my 27 a prior owner repowered with a Yanmar 2GM20F. It has a heat exhanger. (The freshwater side contains antifreeze although the manual does state that you can use water)
To winterize the freshwater cooled engine you indeed can just suck in the -50 antifreeze because that fills the raw water side of the heat exchanger. You do not need to trip the thermostat because that's in the freshwater side. As long as you are using good antifreeze in the freshwater side, you are now basically winterized.
Another point. It is advisable to change the oil BEFORE winterizing so that when you start the engine to draw through the antifreeze, you coat the innards with new oil.
I hope the above is right, because that's what I have done this year and it's been pretty cold here in New York.
All the best.
Bill Goldsmith
Larry DeMers wrote: Don and Bill,
It's not that simple. You have a thermostat in series with the waters path, which will be totally closed off until the engine warms up..which takes my MD7B almost 30 minutes running time in gear to do.
If you start the engine and just stick the intake hose into the antifreeze, you will indeed get pink stuff out the exhaust. It's because the thermostat is closed and bypassing the antifreeze around the engine directly to the exhaust elbow.
What I have done for 11 years is to run the engine in gear to heat it up to the 190 deg. mark (where the thermostat opens fully), then stick the intake hose into an ice cream bucket full of RV type antifreeze good to at least -50 deg.F. This does work.
Someone else had a great idea..taking the hose that carries the water to the engines mixing elbow and remove it from the elbow, and route it's content back to the ice cream bucket. Now the antifreeze will go thru the engine, come out the mixing elbow hose into the ice cream bucket which in turn gets resucked back up by the engine. It's a closed loop system, which means that the temps will rise more quickly in the coolant, since it is being reheated over and over again.
The only caveat I would add is to keep an eye on the exhaust hose temp, as there is no water in there to cool it down. The report I read this morning says that the person that suggests doing this has seen no problems so far, but I have read of hoses melting or distorting because of heat..so keep an eye for this happening.
Reason I run my engine in gear at the dock, for 30-60 minutes is due to my experience when I pulled the engine for an overhaul a few years back. I winterized it, then had it pulled so that it could be worked on over our wintertime. After the engine was out of the boat, I saw a petcock on the engines side, behind the fuel injector pump, and hidden from the normal front view I had. I opened this petcock, and it drained and drained pure water..no pink antifreeze in it at all. There had to be a good quart or two of water leaking out. This would have been bad news to allow to freeze..probably fatal to the engine in our temps (we reach -35deg F (actual temp) during January most years).
Don't forget to pull the impellor out now also..so that it does not take a 'set' with 1 or 2 vanes collapsed, as these will not straighten out in the summer.
Cheers!
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30 ~~~~Shivering, on Lake Superior~~~
Larry DeMers wrote:Larry DeMers wrote: