Routing halyard and downhaul for an asymetrical spinnaker
Moderator: Jim Walsh
-
John Isbister - CD30 Arie
Routing halyard and downhaul for an asymetrical spinnaker
I just ordered a Flasher from UK Sailmakers and I am curious how others have rigged the various lines needed. Thanks in advance for any hints. I enjoy this message board very much. John
-
Don Carr
Re: Routing halyard and downhaul for an asymetrical spinnake
John;
I run a flasher on my CD25..Here is how I rigged it..should be very
close on any boat. First the halyard must be outboard all other halyards and run through a swivel block at the masthead. If you don't already have a bail on the mast..install one and mount the swivel block on it. Second the tack should be run through a turning block mounted outboard of every thing..i.e. the most forward part of your boat (end of bowsprit). Third, the tack line must have free run from the turning block aft to a cleat this is so the tack may be adjusted for point of sail off the wind (run broad reach) longer tack line, closer to wind shorter the tack (broad reach to beam reach). Fourth, sheeting requirements are that the sheets sould be approximately 2.5 boat lengths mine are roughly 65 ft each for a 25. All sheeting is to be routed OUTSIDE everything from bow to stern. Generally I set up the
sheeting at the mooring before leaving , just connect the shackles together at some convenient point either port or starboard stantion slightly forward of midships. The sheets ideally should run to turning
blocks as far aft as possible. I mounted my blocks on my two outboard stern cleats. Then the sheet fairleads forward to the winch.
I personally don't use a downhaul so I can't address that particular setup, unless you are going to try and pole it out.
Launching and dousing is a blast..just ask.
carrd48@netzero.net
I run a flasher on my CD25..Here is how I rigged it..should be very
close on any boat. First the halyard must be outboard all other halyards and run through a swivel block at the masthead. If you don't already have a bail on the mast..install one and mount the swivel block on it. Second the tack should be run through a turning block mounted outboard of every thing..i.e. the most forward part of your boat (end of bowsprit). Third, the tack line must have free run from the turning block aft to a cleat this is so the tack may be adjusted for point of sail off the wind (run broad reach) longer tack line, closer to wind shorter the tack (broad reach to beam reach). Fourth, sheeting requirements are that the sheets sould be approximately 2.5 boat lengths mine are roughly 65 ft each for a 25. All sheeting is to be routed OUTSIDE everything from bow to stern. Generally I set up the
sheeting at the mooring before leaving , just connect the shackles together at some convenient point either port or starboard stantion slightly forward of midships. The sheets ideally should run to turning
blocks as far aft as possible. I mounted my blocks on my two outboard stern cleats. Then the sheet fairleads forward to the winch.
I personally don't use a downhaul so I can't address that particular setup, unless you are going to try and pole it out.
Launching and dousing is a blast..just ask.
carrd48@netzero.net
-
Michael Heintz
Re: Routing halyard and downhaul for an asymetrical spinnake
John,
I had UK make a "flasher" this summer for my CD 30 MK II.
They have very helpful "tech" sheets which explain the rigging in detail as well as how to fly it.
DO order the "Flasher Stasher" it is worth it!!!! This is the "sleeve" that allows you to set and take in your flasher very easily. It is especially important if you sail with a small crew ie single handed or otherwise.
I had a halyard installed, easily done as they just had to attatch the swivel block. They also installed a Jam cleate on the mast to hold the halyard.
I bought 60' sheets ( lightweight ) and have found them plenty long.
For this season I used my existing blocks on their tracks set as far aft as I could. I may change this next year and use blocks as far aft as possible, perhaps mounting them on the stern cleats, however we had no problems with the existing blocks. All in all we loved the flasher, prime when the wind falls off a bit and a blast when the wind is still up a bit.
The one thing I did discover is that it did not perform as well as I thought it would downwind, but just off the wind a bit it sailed great and gave us good speed!!!
Good luck, and don't forget to ask them for the Tech sheets
Michael Heintz
S/V Machts Nichts
CD 30 MK II 004
Mzenith@aol.com
I had UK make a "flasher" this summer for my CD 30 MK II.
They have very helpful "tech" sheets which explain the rigging in detail as well as how to fly it.
DO order the "Flasher Stasher" it is worth it!!!! This is the "sleeve" that allows you to set and take in your flasher very easily. It is especially important if you sail with a small crew ie single handed or otherwise.
I had a halyard installed, easily done as they just had to attatch the swivel block. They also installed a Jam cleate on the mast to hold the halyard.
I bought 60' sheets ( lightweight ) and have found them plenty long.
For this season I used my existing blocks on their tracks set as far aft as I could. I may change this next year and use blocks as far aft as possible, perhaps mounting them on the stern cleats, however we had no problems with the existing blocks. All in all we loved the flasher, prime when the wind falls off a bit and a blast when the wind is still up a bit.
The one thing I did discover is that it did not perform as well as I thought it would downwind, but just off the wind a bit it sailed great and gave us good speed!!!
Good luck, and don't forget to ask them for the Tech sheets
Michael Heintz
S/V Machts Nichts
CD 30 MK II 004
Mzenith@aol.com
-
Don Carr
Downwind use a symmetrical spin.
I agree the UK technical stuff is really to the point. Also I would agree that the asym is not a 'downwind' sail. After looking at the current crop of one-designs (J-80's, Antrims, Melges) which use the asym as their spinnaker I find they don't do as well downwind as boats with symmetrical kites. They tend to loose VMG because they are constantly jibing to stay off the wind rather than running.
carrd48@netzero.net
carrd48@netzero.net
-
sloopjohnl
Re: Routing halyard and downhaul for an asymetrical spinnake
if you ease the halyard, ease the tack downhaul, and get the sail flying full as far forward as possible you can get pretty close to downwind, but you are right - it will never be a symmetrical.
Michael Heintz wrote: John,
I had UK make a "flasher" this summer for my CD 30 MK II.
They have very helpful "tech" sheets which explain the rigging in detail as well as how to fly it.
DO order the "Flasher Stasher" it is worth it!!!! This is the "sleeve" that allows you to set and take in your flasher very easily. It is especially important if you sail with a small crew ie single handed or otherwise.
I had a halyard installed, easily done as they just had to attatch the swivel block. They also installed a Jam cleate on the mast to hold the halyard.
I bought 60' sheets ( lightweight ) and have found them plenty long.
For this season I used my existing blocks on their tracks set as far aft as I could. I may change this next year and use blocks as far aft as possible, perhaps mounting them on the stern cleats, however we had no problems with the existing blocks. All in all we loved the flasher, prime when the wind falls off a bit and a blast when the wind is still up a bit.
The one thing I did discover is that it did not perform as well as I thought it would downwind, but just off the wind a bit it sailed great and gave us good speed!!!
Good luck, and don't forget to ask them for the Tech sheets
Michael Heintz
S/V Machts Nichts
CD 30 MK II 004