This bulletin board, hosted by the CDSOA, Inc., is the on-line meeting place for all Cape Dory owners and groups. We welcome everyone's questions, answers and comments about Cape Dory sailboat
Does anyone know the Schaefer part number for the 3/4" x 3 3/4" outhaul car used on 1984 CD36s? The owner's manual lists part numbers for many Schaefer blocks, but not the outhaul. Schaefer told me they don't make this any more or have any spares. They are trying to come up with a solution. They also say they can't weld a new ring to replace the broken one.
I think the pivot would be a good thing if you had a loose footed main. Though it wouldnt hurt in a traditional main.
Oddly, Schaefer has no spares? Both those Rigrite parts are schaefer (the photos are reverse negetive, but that is obviously the Schaefer logo on them).
Russell
s/v (yet to be named) Tayana 42CC
s/v Lady Pauline Cape Dory 36 #117 (for sale)
If I can't find a local welder to effect a repair, I'm probably going to get the Sch 95-82X pivoting toggle car. When mounted, should the sheave should be forward or aft of the toggle? I'm confused as how to best minimize the turning moment that Dick mentioned.
The existing outhaul wire has been simply shackled to the ring on the aft end of the car. To use the sheave, and get a 2:1 mechanical advantage, I'll have to (1) add an eye strap to the back end of the boom, (2) cut off the existing swaged end, (3) pass the wire around the sheave, and (4) swage on another fitting (or thimble). Am I seeing this right? I hope the wire's long enough.
If I was switching the whole thing out, I would be tempted to ditch the wire outhaul alltogether and go with ultra low stretch high tech line (like amsteel or similar).
Russell
s/v (yet to be named) Tayana 42CC
s/v Lady Pauline Cape Dory 36 #117 (for sale)
Isn't there already a purchase inside the boom? I've not had it apart but it seems as if there's a 2 or 3 to 1 purchase, and a rope-wire splice. I've been tempted to pull the boom end cap off and look, as something in there is getting a bit stiff.
The turning moment has to do with lateral pressure on the car (at a right angle to the boom) with possible distortion of the track shoulders; the hinged base reduces that moment. The sheave position won't affect that, but the sheave would need to be on the after end of the car if you were to use it in the way you describe.
HOWEVER, the lead on 95-x2 is wrong...it looks as though it expects the wire from both the fixed and working ends to be above the car at about 30 degrees. The lead on the 95-54x car looks right, but it isn't hinged...it also looks as though it's intended for the sheave to be forward (I'm looking at the way the shackle portion is shaped...the downward sloped side should be away from the direction of tension, or aft of the sail. (somebody tell me if I'm wrong here...not that I have to ask...)
If you were to choose one of those, I'd go with the 95-82x and forget about using the sheave, mount it so that the sheave is aft, however.
Bill Cochrane wrote:...the downward sloped side should be away from the direction of tension, or aft of the sail. (somebody tell me if I'm wrong here...not that I have to ask...)
Yes, there's a 3:1 purchase inside the boom. I discovered it when I replaced the line two years ago. I switched from Schaefer to Harken blocks while I was at it.
OK. Now I get it about the lateral pull of the sail being minimized by the pivoting toggle.
I've already had the boom end cap off, to remove the outhaul car. The high-tech line sounds good. Will check into it.
I'm hoping to hear back from Schaefer tomorrow. Will keep y'all posted.