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I'm preparing to strip and varnish much of the teak on Typhoon Dolcetto come Spring, and as I was surveying what most needed doing, I saw that I (and maybe the p.o.) have managed to score some grooves in the tops of the coamings where I've pulled the jib sheet down to the cleat. So I was thinking of covering the top edge of the coaming with half-oval brass trim of the kind often used on rub rails. The edge seems flat enough, especially if I give it a bit of a sanding in preparation, and 3/4" should do. Has anyone out there ever tried this (I couldn't find anything by searching)? I think it would look pretty sharp and should prevent further damage.
Happy Holidays, everyone!
Peter Just
Typhoon Weekender #602, Dolcetto, Spruce Head, ME
"It is not with impunity that we go out on the water, but with sufferance." - Roger C. Taylor
Rub strips are very seaman like. You don't have to add them to the entire coaming edge just along the area where the chafing occurs. The brass/bronze half-ovals would be nice.
Another option is to add a strip of bare teak to the entire top edge of the varnished coaming. It will protect the more valuable coaming and also provide additional protection from all kinds of abrasion that commonly befall the top varnished edge of the coaming. If you leave the sides of the teak cap slightly proud of the vertical sides of the coaming they will also protect the vulnerable edge of the varnish. The bare teak and varnished coaming contrast nicely.
I have used brass half oval in a few places on Raven. Larger pieces at the bow chocks where there was chafe from dock and mooring lines. A length along the top of the toe rail so I can lead the dock lines over the rail instead of through the stern chocks in shorter docks. A full length piece along the top edge of the combing at the aft deck to keep the wind vane lines from chafing the teak and so I can stand on it without scuffing the varnish. I would like to do the tops of the combing boards as well. That area takes much more abuse than the rest of the varnish.
I don't think you want 3/4" brass for the job. I find that if you hand plane a flat on top and go with a narrower brass oval it looks very nice. You can still retain a slight bit of the original curve and then center the brass oval on top of it. If you go with 3/4" on a 3/4" board you may find that it overhangs the board in some places due to the wearing away of the wood after so many years. A narrower oval while retaining some of the round over will give a bit of wiggle room.
Another way to handle this job is to match the size of the brass oval with the radius on the wood and inlay it only where it is needed. This takes a bit more skill and if often seen on classic wooden boats, Steve.
Has anyone done this brass oval on the Ty teak rub rail? I've had a few bumps with the dock and find that it scuffs up my Cetol finish pretty easily. Probably would be quite expensive though.
Jim1945 wrote:Has anyone done this brass oval on the Ty teak rub rail? I've had a few bumps with the dock and find that it scuffs up my Cetol finish pretty easily. Probably would be quite expensive though.
What gets real expensive is the shipping Hamilton Marine wanted $65.00 to ship a single 6 foot piece, that sells for under $10.00, to St. Louis. I can't imagine what the shipping would be for the 12 foot piece.
Jim1945 wrote:Has anyone done this brass oval on the Ty teak rub rail? I've had a few bumps with the dock and find that it scuffs up my Cetol finish pretty easily. Probably would be quite expensive though.
What gets real expensive is the shipping Hamilton Marine wanted $65.00 to ship a single 6 foot piece, that sells for under $10.00, to St. Louis. I can't imagine what the shipping would be for the 12 foot piece.
St. Louis is in the rust belt. You must have a metal supply business in the area. I'll bet they can quote a very competitive price since their suppliers will batch the shipment to spread the cost of shipping over the entire order. That is if they don't already have it in stock. No need to go to a specialty "marine" source for any metal "raw material".
A previous owner installed a brass piece along the rub rail of our previous Ty. It looked nice and seemed to worked well. If I recall correctly it was about a 1/2 in. wide and was fastened by wood screws every 10-12 inches.
Steve
Pleasant Journey, Morgan 35
Previously:
'85 CD 26, Hull No. 30
'74 Typhoon Hull No. 789
Great Bay/Little Egg Harbor, NJ
I have purchased all kinds of stuff for the rebuild of the Far Reach to include Hamilton Marine. I have bought long pieces of silicon rod, brass tubing, and plate bronze from venders in Texas as well as McMaster Carr, and Atlas Metals. I have never paid anything close to that. I have to think there is an error in there somewhere. I'd call Hamilton Marine in Searsport Maine and discuss it with them. They have pretty good customer service I think. The brass half oval will be shipped in a cardboard tube. I think they can ship UPS up to 8'. Good luck.
I don't think you want 3/4" brass for the job. I find that if you hand plane a flat on top and go with a narrower brass oval it looks very nice. You can still retain a slight bit of the original curve and then center the brass oval on top of it. If you go with 3/4" on a 3/4" board you may find that it overhangs the board in some places due to the wearing away of the wood after so many years. A narrower oval while retaining some of the round over will give a bit of wiggle room.
That seems like sage advice. I see that 5/8" brass is available. Does that seem right, or should I go for 1/2"?
Peter Just
Typhoon Weekender #602, Dolcetto, Spruce Head, ME
"It is not with impunity that we go out on the water, but with sufferance." - Roger C. Taylor
Your combing might already be close to 5/8" thick at this point. 1/2" or even 3/8" would work very well for what you hope to accomplish. The price of half oval brass jumps considerably when you get to the larger sizes, so you would also same some money. You could cut some wood or paper strips to get a feel for how the brass would sit on the combing, Steve.
I have had HM roll up the brass strip for shipping at a more reasonable price. It can get a few minor bends in it but if you are cutting it to shorter lengths that should not matter.
Jeff
Steve Laume wrote:Your combing might already be close to 5/8" thick at this point. 1/2" or even 3/8" would work very well for what you hope to accomplish. The price of half oval brass jumps considerably when you get to the larger sizes, so you would also same some money. You could cut some wood or paper strips to get a feel for how the brass would sit on the combing, Steve.
Steve, you're quite right. I measured the coaming again and I think 3/8" will do fine. The coaming is about 8' long. Hamilton Marine sells a 12' length of 3/8" half oval for $18. I'm sure I can find a good place for the leftover trim. Now all I have to do is find a friend with a drill press!
Peter Just
Typhoon Weekender #602, Dolcetto, Spruce Head, ME
"It is not with impunity that we go out on the water, but with sufferance." - Roger C. Taylor
I checked the price of 3/8" x 12' solid brass half oval at Jamestown Distributors. The cost is $25. The 8' lone piece is $14. The shipping for a 12' piece is listed at $11 from RI to NC.
So I was thinking of covering the top edge of the coaming with half-oval brass trim of the kind often used on rub rails. The edge seems flat enough, especially if I give it a bit of a sanding in preparation, and 3/4" should do. Has anyone out there ever tried this (I couldn't find anything by searching)? I think it would look pretty sharp and should prevent further damage.
Hamilton Marine wanted $65.00 to ship a single 6 foot piece, that sells for under $10.00, to St. Louis. I can't imagine what the shipping would be for the 12 foot piece.
