CD 28 conversion to mid-boom traveler

[adamganz]

Well, the 2014 season came to an eventful close yesterday. Sailing northeast from NYC just off Long Island I heard a snap and watched the main swing unfettered leeward, taking with it the blocks, sheets and traveler car. After gathering myself, and everything mentioned above, I realized that I now had no choice but to replace the whole traveler system, a project I've wanted to do since I purchased the boat but until this moment felt superfluous.

I've read quite a few posts on converting to mid boom systems on larger CDs than mine - specifically CD 36s. Any CD 28 conversions? Any specific product recommendations? I like the garhauer stands but otherwise haven't developed an opinion. The other question I have is how the traveler interfaces with dodger...how to adjust traveler when dodger is on. I saw one version where the traveler lines exit forward and come back to cockpit through a block mounted on surface of cabin.

Any input is much appreciated.

Adam

[Joe Myerson]

Adam,
I don't know how relevant this is to your question, but my 25D came with a mid-boom traveler, which was installed on the bridge deck from various Schaefer parts. The arrangement is satisfactory for me, because it gives me a great deal of mainsail control when single handing, which I do most of the time. On a 28, you'd probably mount it on the coach roof, which would be much more convenient.

And, yes, if I had to do it myself, I'd definitely go with Garhauer.

--Joe

[Jim Walsh]

This link might be helpful.
http://www.capedory.org/board/viewtopic.php?t=27536

[camroll]

Converting to a mid boom traveler on my CD28 was the single greatest improvement I have made. I have a dodger and the control lines run along side the hand rails and thus through the already existing openings in the dodger. All the main sail controls are in the front of the cockpit. If you would like I could send you pictures and describe what I did.

Russ

[adamganz]

Russ, I'd love to see what you installed. If it's easier you can write me at acganser@gmail.com. Adam

[RIKanaka]

I'm sure you're aware but if not keep in mind that a mid-boom traveler/main sheet arrangement puts a great deal more stress on the boom at the attachment points than an end-boom mainsheet, so at least 2 if not 3 boom bails should be utilized to spread the stress over a greater length of the boom, depending on how far from the mast your traveler will be. On my CD26, it's about 2/5 of the boom length from the mast, so the stress on the boom is substantial. I still have the original arrangement boom bail at the clew end that I utilize for the mainsheet when sailing in particularly heavy winds.

[Rebinva]

Adam:

We, too, have converted our 28 to mid boom sheeting. The mount we have came off a 36 and I bought on this board. The remainder I bought from Garhauer. Ours is an older model and I adjust it by standing in the companionway and reaching through the front window of the dodger. I took pictures when I installed it, but that camera died. It was pretty straight forward.

Also check John Rings web site on his former boat, a 28, Tantalus. And this link might help. http://jengle.tripod.com/ptips.html

[adamganz]

Thanks everyone,

Couple of follow up notes.

Rebinva, I have been looking for an old mount from a 36 as well. They're the most minimal I've seen and I like the arc. I haven't found anything yet but will keep looking.

Russ sent photos of his set up (thanks Russ) and I like that as well.

The easiest solution (not least expensive I'm sure) seems to be the Garhauer traveler and stands. My hesitation is that it looks just massive. I also can't figure out why the UB1 track has blocks at the ends of the traveler instead of cam cleats (as shown on the UB-2). Maybe either is an option?

As for the stress on the boom from a mid-boom traveler, your point is well taken. I don't think it will be an issue. Whether I have two or three boom connections, the aft-most connection will be well past the 1/2 way point on my boom; and I tend to reef early, which will take stress away from the end of the boom in higher winds. But since you've brought it up, has anyone experienced any issues with stress on the boom (or the cabin top) from a mid boom traveler?

Thanks again everyone. Really helpful.

[Randy Capstick]

I would suggest sending John Ring a PM. He detailed how he converted his CD28 Tantalus to mid-boom sheeting on his website, which doesn't seem to be available any longer.
Randy

[Argo]

I say keep the end boom sheeting.

I snapped my CD30s boom in half when I jibed accidentally in 20knots with two reefs tied in. It was a stupid mistake on my part but I was defiantly surprised to see the two pieces of my boom flapping violently in the wind still attached to the sail. I live aboard and cruise on a tight budget. The boom on a cd30 and a cd28 is really long compared to other boats in their size range. With the sheet in the middle it give the sail some serious leverage to snap the boom. If you do break a boom it's almost impossible to find a used boom at a salvage yard that will fit the boat. Shipping a new boom to wherever you are is incredibly expensive, especially if you break your boom outside the U.S.

I sailed over 1000 miles with a wooden boom I made on the beach. With a wooden boom that has some flex you can really see how much stress mid boom sheeting puts on the spar. I sheeted it in the middle at first but the thing just about snapped in two when I raised it in 5knots of wind. I moved the sheet to the end and never had any problems even when sailing in 30 knots.

All that being said. The CD28 and the CD30's booms are made of the same sized tube stock. The sail on the CD28 is smaller and thus there is less stress on the boom. People have made some pretty incredible passages on CD30s with mid boom sheeting. My boats boom lasted 28years and who knows how many times previous owners accidentally jibed with it. I will also say that now that I'm building an aluminium boom from a CD25 mast I will probably sheet it in the middle because the boat was designed for it. With pedestal wheel steering and end boom sheeting you have to hit the deck as the sheet comes flying across the cockpit. Your boat is already set up with a stronger smarted system, I wouldn't change it. But if you do... Be religious about preventers. Dual boom vangs controlled from the cockpit can be used for preventers and make more room for a dingy on the cabin top. An end boom preventer is better when your not changing course. Be carful and carry lot of tools to fix things when they break.

[Neil Gordon]

>>... I was defiantly surprised to see the two pieces of my boom flapping violently in the wind still attached to the sail. <<

I'd hate to see what that might look like with a loose footed sail.

[John Stone]

Adam,
Lots of folks have mid boom sheeting and they are happy with it. Many boats with mid boom sheeting have made noteworthy off shore passages. In fact, I suspect more cruising boats have mid boom rather than end boom sheeting these days.

However, I converted my CD 36 the other way . . . from mid-boom to end-boom. I wanted to reduce the strain on the boom, improve leech control, and buy back room on the cabin top for my hard dinghy.

The increased loads on the boom when relocated from end boom to mid boom are exactly double. It affects hardware, fasteners, and mainsheet. I think the rigrite spars are, as a general rule, pretty stout but you may want to check the scantlings and make sure your boom is up to the task. I would not assume that the boom for the mid boom sheeting CDs of similar size and the boom on a CD originally set up for end boom sheeting are the same, though maybe they are. Also, if you currently have 4:1 sheeting and don't have a winch, you may find you need more power to trim the main in higher winds. That could require a combination mainsheet system 4:1/6:1--very expensive, or a winch. If you need a winch, will you install a bronze one? Self tailing? Check the price ahead of time. If you install a winch on the cabin top and decide to run the mainsheet forward along the boom then down to the deck and back to the winch you will have to install a pad-eye with backing plate and probably some kind of off set fairlead to route the sheet around the cabin top hatch. It also means you have a line running down the cabin top that can be a hazard when you are standing on the cabin top and can roll out from under your foot. You'll also need to drill holes for your winch and install a backing pate for that as well. If the CD 28 has a fiberglass headliner you'll have to consider the various options for dealing with it as it relates to those fastener holes and additional backing plates.

Keep in mind that a traveler that arches down, to follow the cabin top, is tightening the leech of your mainsail as you drop the traveler. In a perfect world, the traveler would curve up on the ends, or better yet, create an arc forward on both ends from the center which allows you play the traveler without having to adjust the mainsheet at the same time. The least preferred traveler is the arched down traveler. Of course all you have to so is ease the main off a small amount as you drop the traveler and the problem is solved. Most cruiser won't mess with the traveler anyway so it probably doesn't really matter. And, you can't play the traveler on the original CD 36 traveler anyway as it has no control lines.

Don't forget you will also be required to drill holes and install backing plates through the cabin top for a mid boom traveler. If you choose to do that, make sure you over-drill the holes, fill with epoxy, then drill them back out to reduce the chance that water will migrate into the cabin top balsa core. I recommend you chamfer the holes before you apply bedding compound to force the bedding to compress around the fastener. This would be a good place to use butyl rubber vice polyurethane or polysulfide bedding compound.

I am the last guy to suggest that you not modify your boat to better meet your needs. All of these things can be managed of course. Just some things to consider ahead of time so you don't get surprised later at the cost . . . in terms of money, effort, and time.

Happy Sailing.

[John Ring]

I used Harken gear and changed my CD28 to mid boom sheeting years ago, worked out great. As John Stone said, you've got to epoxy fill the holes, and add substantial backing plates.

John Ring

[Jim Walsh]

Would that be a Harken traveller? Looks like Schaefer blocks.

[John Ring]

Would that be a Harken traveller? Looks like Schaefer blocks.

Yes, Harken risers, beam, and traveler car. The blocks were all Schaefer. I think I later swapped out those boom bails for slightly deeper ones.

John