Typhoon--Considering Full Batten Main + RF or Jib downhaul

[Mark]

I am considering purchasing a new full batten main for "OM", my typhoon. I am also looking at different roller furling systems or possible a downhaul system for jib. I would appreciate any comments, suggestions, experiences, etc. concerning new sails and systems for the Typhoon. I just traded a Pearson 26 for "OM"--my second Ty and third CD and will be upgrading and restoring her to Bristol condition.
I just purchased a 2001 Yamaha 4hp 4stroke which has both internal and external gas tanks. Appears to be a great motor for the Ty.
Thanks to all whole previously responded to my inquires about Ty engines.



mdmh2o@hal-pc.org

[Marino Curati]

The only thing about full battens in a main is that when you get a lot of puffy wind, they tend to invert. This usually happens on boats where the jib is lead inside the shrouds as is the case with the Ty. With no traveller to pull to windward, I think it might be hard to control that. Also, full batten mains can easily hang up on the backstay. Many standard mains today come with a full batten at the top then short ones down the roach. These observations come from my racing experiences and I wasn't on a Ty so I'm not certain they will pan out. But the Ty mast design is pretty similar a lot of small racing boats.

The best thing about full battens is they hold a better shape in light air, but then, who wants to sail a Ty in light air anyway?

I'm not sure what a jib downhaul is.

Marino Curati
Ty #74 Snug
Freezing in Cleveland

[Kurt]

I sailed an Alberg Sea Sprite for 18 years with a jib downhaul and was very satisfied with its ability to let me set/strike headsails from the cockpit. The drawback is having the headsail laying on the deck when its not hoisted...especially in windy conditions.
On my CD26 I installed Harken roller furling which is a great piece of gear and couldn't be easier to use. But its drawbacks are changing headsails (slightly more work involved) and I don't like the idea of having the headstay hidden inside of the furler's aluminum extrusion..you can't inspect it.
Another consideration...the downhaul hardware and running rigging costs less than $100.00 VS. $1500.00 for the furler including sail modifications.
If I owned a Typhon with its inherintly smaller headsails...I'd go with the downhaul



kjlgpw@aol.com

[Mike Wainfeld]

I rigged a jib downhaul with a line from the top jib hank thru a small block at the stem, then back to the cockpit. With the boat turned into the wind, and the jib halyard released, a yank on the downhaul will usually flake the jib onto the deck.
Mike
CD Typhoon "Regalo"



ripcord1@erols.com

[Marino]

Now that's a great idea! I've always had a little trouble, when single handing, getting the jib down without it getting wet. Usually had to quickly run up there pulling on the leach. I love simple things like that.

- Marino

I rigged a jib downhaul with a line from the top jib hank thru a small block at the stem, then back to the cockpit. With the boat turned into the wind, and the jib halyard released, a yank on the downhaul will usually flake the jib onto the deck.
Mike
CD Typhoon "Regalo"

[sloopjohnl]

it only has to be a very light line - 1/8 inch at most. there is already a hole in the stemhead fitting for the turning block to direct the line back to the cockpit. you can use that same turning block like i do for the downhaul line to the tack fitting of an asymmetrical spinnaker

Now that's a great idea! I've always had a little trouble, when single handing, getting the jib down without it getting wet. Usually had to quickly run up there pulling on the leach. I love simple things like that.

- Marino

I rigged a jib downhaul with a line from the top jib hank thru a small block at the stem, then back to the cockpit. With the boat turned into the wind, and the jib halyard released, a yank on the downhaul will usually flake the jib onto the deck.
Mike
CD Typhoon "Regalo"

[Richard Stephens]

Mark,

I have sailed one season with a new roachy main with a single top batten. The leech overlaps the backstay by about 2 inches. I am very pleased with it's performance, and have had no problems with it hanging up on the backstay (you have to nurse it a little when gibing, though).

I fitted the sail with telltails on the leech, etc. Then I had to get a traveller, cuningham and outhaul adjustment, so I can trim it just so, and get all the telltails flying. The costs of the refit did spiral quite a bit, but it was worth it for me.

I also fitted a CDI FF1 furler on the 110% jib. I've never used it for reefing, but it does really speed up getting under way. I use wire-luffed genoa, set flying, for downwind in light air. The inboard sheeting angle of the 110% is better for windward work in all winds.

I posted the details of my sails on this forum before: try a search on my name.

Good luck with your new suit of sails! This is the time of year to buy!

Richard. (Typhoon "Blue Diamond")



richard@memory-map.com