How bad does this bowsprit look? CD28

[Northoceanbeach]

So, having gone over the boat I bought yesterday, the worst thing I found was the bowsprit. The previous owner says the owner before him must have hit something. So he said five years ago he had someone, I don't know who, come out and they cut off some rot off the front.

I'm no rot expert, I'm wondering, hoping not really, but whether I have to get this replaced, and if I can sail before I do. I know it's hard to tell from pictures, but you guys have these boats, you know more about them than anyone I'm sure.

[Jim Walsh]

Use an awl to check for additional rot. If no soft spots are found there is nothing effecting your ability to sail. My choice would be to replace the bowsprit but you may not wish to take that on. My second choice would be to have an elliptical forward profile. I'd round off the bowsprit as much as possible.

[GeorgeH]

What's with the jigsaw cut of the bowsprit? I agree with Jim, trim it to an elliptical profile, then you might save a foot charge at marinas (haha).

[nosara]

Looks like you could splice in a new section as long as the rest is sound.

[Rebinva]

Buy a piece of white oak the size of the original and replace it. Not hard to do, just spend some time in the anchor locker. You can also check the condition of the forward backing plate, lots of posts on here about that. ;>)

[Northoceanbeach]

I'm not sure what is standard, but the majority of my backing plate is glassed in, it does not look fun if I have to take that off. I read a couple posts by people that have, and they said "if you don't have to do it, don't"

So I am hoping I don't have to. Can I drill a hole through the side of my bowsprit, which I want to do anyways to install a basic anchor roller, and gauge the condition by what comes out? You have to understand it's very hard to have a new boat and not be out sailing it.

oh, the ladder looking cut, was to cut of the rot that was there, although I like your circular idea better.

[Steve Laume]

There might not have been any rot at all. The bow sprit originally had to ears like the one remaining on the port side. Between them was the bow roller which really didn't work very well. If I had to guess I would say it was a hard docking rather than rot that inspired the removal of the starboard side. It seems like rot would have started around the fasteners. I could be wrong and you could easily find out by poking around with and awl as suggested.

Where is the boat? I am sure someone on the board would love to come by to see it and meet you as well as answering questions or showing you their boat for comparisons, Steve.

[Northoceanbeach]

Thanks. I didn't know it originally had ears. Today I am poking with an awl. I did a little poking with a rigging knife, shackle thing, and didn't find any.

I'm in the South SF Bay. anyone is welcome to come and see and talk anytime.

[Northoceanbeach]

It's time to replace. I had a rigger come take a look and he said for peace of mind put a new board on. it shouldn't be that hard. So I don't have to remove the metal plate that is in the anchor locker do I? I just unbolt the bolts that are in there and pull the board off and put a new one on? Its not too big of a job is it?

[sharkbait]

Changing the board is an excellent choice. Shouldn't be a major task. Leave the backing plate alone if it is in good condition. You can use a one piece board or you can build up one from multiple planks set on edge. Prime point is to make sure you seal the installation well to protect the integrity of the deck and the new board.

P.S. A new board is a lot cheaper than a new mast.

[Steve Laume]

It's time to replace. I had a rigger come take a look and he said for peace of mind put a new board on. it shouldn't be that hard. So I don't have to remove the metal plate that is in the anchor locker do I? I just unbolt the bolts that are in there and pull the board off and put a new one on? Its not too big of a job is it?

If there is no rot in what is left of the bow sprit it should not compromise the rig in any way. What the rigger might have been saying is that if it makes you worry then you should replace it. What made me roll my eyes a bit was your saying that it shouldn't be that hard. There are some threads on here that go into replacing the bow sprit and it could be a bugger to get off. I would sail the boat without any hesitation and worry about it when you have the time to deal with it. Everything foreward of the head stay is just extra wood and more importantly a place for the bow roller to live. Before I started pulling things apart, I would decide on which bow roller I was going to use and design the new sprit with that in mind. I put a Windline bow roller on Raven and had to cut off one of the ears to make it work. The original roller was just a rubber roller pinned between two ears like the one you have on the port side. You can probably see the hole in it. This didn't work very well as the rode always jumped out if not perfectly aligned.

As for using a board and not gluing up a lamination, I don't think that is a very good idea. There is a very good chance it will warp, cup or split and you will be worse off than you are now. There is no structural problem with the way it is if everything is sound. If you look carefully at your current sprit you will see some large plugs in the edges. Not only is your original sprit glued up but there are bronze rods bolting it together all along it's length. I would copy this if making up a new one.

If nothing is leaking and there is no rot would probably find a heavy duty bow roller and bolt into what you have along with whatever extra wood you might need to fill the gaps. The sprit on Raven is teak and in great shape. Some of the earlier boats used White Oak. If you have a teak sprit I would be that much more inclined to work with what you have and not worry about it, Steve.

[Northoceanbeach]

I'm having trouble telling if it compromises the rig in any way. I'm also getting conflicting reports on how hard it is to replace. I guess that's probably because to some people, carpentry and woodwork is easy where to others, not so much. Probably also depends on the cape dory.

I will look for those threads now from people who replaced theirs. I read a blog on it, but at a different site. I think FELIX. But he took the metal plate off and all.

As for rot, there is a tiny bit on the tip, and a spot next to the anchor chain cover. If I was good at these kinds of things, I would just do it, but bronze rods, cutting all the pieced out for the anchor and chainplates. I've never done ANY woodwork before. I guess I should have taken shop in school.

[Steve Laume]

Oh, that looks a bit different than the first picture. I would still think you will be fine, sailing the boat but I would replace the sprint pretty soon. I an pretty sure that is not teak. If you were close by I could make you up a nice bow sprit. I am sure any good woodworker could do it for you. Then it is just a matter of extracting the old one and bedding in the new.

Take a serious look at anchor rollers before you do all the work, Steve.

[Northoceanbeach]

keep in mind I took super close up pictures of the two bad spots. I tried the search but only found one thread on replacing the bowsprit on mystic rose, and that was more dedicated to the steel backing plate.

FWIW my plate looks great, my anchor locker is dry and rust free, It's just the two spots on the sprit.

[tjr818]

What you have is ROT. While it MIGHT be okay for now, it will only get worse. Other than a leak in the hull, I would say that this is top priority. I do not know where you are located, but it is September. How many sailing days do you have left in this season? I suggests that you take pictures and measurements, and start planning the replacement. Teak will not be cheap. True white oak would be okay,as would Live oak, locust, or ash. Plan ahead for any bow roller, but this is a project that, in my opinion, must be done soon.