Have to change Cutlass bearing on prop shaft.
Suggestions?
Mzenith@aol.com
Cutlass bearing
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Re: Cutlass bearing
I had a yard do the work in changing the cutlass bearing on my CD27 while I watched. It was a very difficult job for them.
If you are extremely capable, I recall that the Lake Michigan Cape Dory Association had an article in their newsletter several years ago wherein a member described how he did it on his own boat. I don't know how you would reach them, but, for what it is worth, that is my lead on the subject.
Robin Meigel
"Pacem"
1979 CD 27
rlmeigel@aol.com
If you are extremely capable, I recall that the Lake Michigan Cape Dory Association had an article in their newsletter several years ago wherein a member described how he did it on his own boat. I don't know how you would reach them, but, for what it is worth, that is my lead on the subject.
Robin Meigel
"Pacem"
1979 CD 27
rlmeigel@aol.com
Re: Cutlass bearing
Hi,
Had this done on my 25D a few years back and this is definately a job for the pros.
The set screws that anchor the cutlass bearing in place are deep withing the fiberglass that gives shape to the hull as it flares to the propeller opening in the hull. This material has to be ground away, propeller removed (need a special puller), prop shaft out (this is a good time to replace that bronze shaft with a stainless steel one). Then of course the you reverse the process including some serious fiberglass work to replace what was ground away.
Also let me reccomend that you explore using one of the dripless shaft logs out there. I have the PSS system on my thirty and it is great.
Chris
cccobx@prodigy.net
Had this done on my 25D a few years back and this is definately a job for the pros.
The set screws that anchor the cutlass bearing in place are deep withing the fiberglass that gives shape to the hull as it flares to the propeller opening in the hull. This material has to be ground away, propeller removed (need a special puller), prop shaft out (this is a good time to replace that bronze shaft with a stainless steel one). Then of course the you reverse the process including some serious fiberglass work to replace what was ground away.
Also let me reccomend that you explore using one of the dripless shaft logs out there. I have the PSS system on my thirty and it is great.
Chris
cccobx@prodigy.net
Re: Cutlass bearing
Ditto to this: the right tools make this job go faster. I don't remember an exact figure when I had this job done but I remember it was not too bad. The actual cutless bearing is cheap.
Chris Cram
cccobx@prodigy.net
Chris Cram
cccobx@prodigy.net
Re: Cutlass bearing
If you have to ask, get a quote from the yard and let them do it. I had a mechanic replace the bearing on LIQUIDITY a few years ago... don't remember the cost, but it wasn't an arm and a leg. Mostly it's about having the right tools and technique.
Regards, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167
neil@nrgordon.com
Regards, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167
neil@nrgordon.com
Re: Cutlass bearing
Michael, It is a bit of a job but not that bad if you dont mind some fiberglass work.Take prop off-remove stuffing box and drive coupling so the shaft can come out. The hole you see from out side the boat is the outboard end of your cutlass bearing.The bearing is in a fiberglass tube,(shaftlog) approx.8"-10"long,it is held in place with 2 setscrews port side(on my boat anyway) about 3"-4" inboard.To locate the setscrews start grinding or cutting(I used a sharp wood chisel)The material away along the sides of the shaftlog until they appear.Remove said setscrews and you will be able to work the bearing out carefully with vice grips or channel locks.I think a new bearing was about $35 last summer.Then you can replace it and do a nice fiberglass job good as new.Might want to consider replacing the shaftlog,there is some good info on this site regarding this-search cutlass bearing.Best of luckMichael Heintz wrote: Have to change Cutlass bearing on prop shaft.
Suggestions?
Ron
CD30#42
s/v "R&R"
ccerre@massed.net