Weekender issues, including motor bracket

[jrisler]

First, I feel like I need to thank everyone on this board. I came across this website when I first started thinking about buying a sailboat, and the community here made me fall in love with Cape Dorys. After I bought Aria, I was able to use the site to redo seacocks (never want to deal with again), get a motor (the Honda 2hp is perfect), and even find a trailer to bring her to Philadelphia (amazingly the only easy part).

I had my first sail, and I have a few questions. My most pressing issue is the outboard bracket. I have one of the brackets from Handy Boat, which consists of the bracket that attached to the motor and a mounting plate that is fastened to the stern. On the bracket, I have a 26 pound, 2hp Honda outboard. My issue is that when I have the bracket and motor installed on the mounting plate, the fiberglass on the stern is being pulled up by about an inch to an inch and a half. There is already significant crazing back there, and now there appears to be a crack forming in the fiberglass on the front starboard edge of the mounting plate. I am concerned that I am damaging my boat and that should it get worse, I could end up with a motor at the bottom of the Delaware River. Has anyone dealt with this issue, and have any suggestions on what I could do without having to haul the boat out of the water?

Second, I was not present when my mast was taken down, so I am not sure if the upper shrouds are supposed to go to the front of the chainplate, or vice versa. If anyone knows the answer for a 1971 Typhoon Weekender, or if it matters, I would greatly appreciate it.

Third, does anyone know if the early Typhoons used the key system to connect the tiller to the rudder post? My tiller has more give to it than I would like, but wanted to know if my boat is supposed to have the key linking tiller to rudder post, or if that was a later innovation.

Again, thank you for everything so far, and I appreciate any responses.

[Joe M]

J

First stop is the Board's info page where you can find the Ty owners manual...http://www.capedory.org/manuals/Ty-Ty%2 ... 30-30K.pdf

Rigging - Lower Shrouds to the stern, Uppers to the bow portion of the chainplate. Its easy to remember "up-front".

Motor mount - deck flex and crazing may be signs of core delamination or rot. Quick fix for the rest of the season may be to take a 12X18 +/- inch of aluminum plate and back up the bracket mounting plate. Use some good flexible bedding compound under the motor mount and in the holes. Check for core rot when you pull the motor mount. I've backed up my mount and each deck cleat with an aluminum plate cause the I thought the washers were a little skimpy for the load, particularly the bow cleat cause I'm on a mooring.

Rudder post - only way to check for a key is to remove the tiller head. If its been well lubed it should slide off. Of not some silicone spray soaking and a friendly rubber mallet should pop it free. If the key is missing you can get one from a local machine shop or a specialty hardware store...doubt Lowes or HD would have it.

If the head is not moving on the shaft check for side to side play in the tiller bail. A plastic washer cut from a milk bottle between the bail and the head works wonders.

Hope this helps

Joe

[Gary M]

I'm not sure if you are using this or similar outboard mount.

http://www.robinhoodmarinecenter.com/sp ... tor-mount/

If you are then there are some structural problems at the deck mount and the area must be strengthend at least.

Joe's idea would be a great start.

Gary

[Markst95]

By stern do you mean the stern deck? pics would be helpful. It does sound like core delamination. I had some on mine under the motor mount bracket.

[wsfanning]

Having just been under the deck and going under again in a few days. I'll recommend an even easier but short term fix, a 1/2" or 3/4" plywood plate. You could take the layout of the screws from the bracket up top, drill them out and then slide in there with someone else above, take the bracket off, and back up the bracket with the plywd panel and longer screws. Since the deck and transom join right in that area you might need to trim the plywd a bit to get it to fit the pre-drilled holes. With your observed deck deflection, the larger the panel you can fit under there the better! Hope this may help.