CD25D engine compartment floor/bilge question

[Petersen]

I launched my newly acquired CD25D for the first time. There was too much water dripping out of the stuffing box gland... which has been corrected by adjusting the bronze gland bolts. But I was surprised that about an inch of water collected in the engine compartment base rather than flowing to the bilge. Is this normal? Is there a drain hole or channel under the shaft/stuffing box (that may be blocked up) that directs water to the bilge? or is this a deliberate design to avoid oil/fuel from going into the bilge? I just don't like all this salt water sloshing around so close to the engine.
Comments please
Peter
CD 25D #68

[Noel Heslop]

Hi Petersen,

Stuffing box seawater collecting under Yanmar 1GM is the norm for me.
I like to keep my bilge as dry as possible, so I can see if there is a change in Breezy.
Also, I try and keep lanolin sprayed onto my motor to minimise rust.
With motor running, I get a drip about every 6 seconds, which is a bit high to what I have read.
I did replace stuffing box at last slip, and only hand tightened stuffing box.
My first time, so it was a 3 hour slog, but I am happy with result.
Hope this info helps.

[David Morton]

Yup. All the drips accumulate under the engine. I keep a pig mat there to catch any petrol based stuff and mop out the water with a large sponge every couple of weeks. It actually makes it easier to track any diesel or oil leaks.

[Steve Laume]

The engine pan on Raven did not have a drain to the bilge when I got her. I believe our boats were designed that way to keep engine fluids from flowing directly into the bilge, where they could be accidentally pumped overboard.

For a few years the stuffing box or hatch covers would leak enough for the pan to overflow and on a port tack it would work it's way out onto the cabin sole. That was a nasty situation. I used to keep a turkey baster or a fuel bulb pump handy to empty the thing and it was a PIA.

To fix the problem and still maintain the ability to catch fluids before they enter the bilge I installed a drain tube with a removable plug. I think I did the install when I had the engine out but it could be done at any time with a bit more trouble. I simply drilled through the forward edge of the pan and glassed in the drain tube. I can now easily pull the plug to drain the pan or keep it in place to catch any possible engine fluids, Steve.

[Neil Gordon]

... I simply drilled through the forward edge of the pan and glassed in the drain tube. I can now easily pull the plug to drain the pan or keep it in place to catch any possible engine fluids, Steve.

Steve,

Why not just a hole in the pan + plug?

[Steve Laume]

The forward side of the pan is a hollow dam sort of arrangement. If I had just drilled through both pieces the water would have drained into the gap between the pan and the hull. That is the same area that is occupied by the mild steel engine mounts so not too good to have salt water sloshing around in there.

The drain tube bridges the void area between the two walls of the engine pan and has a nice flared end to accept the plug, Steve.

[David Morton]

Be aware that we are talking about Peter's 25D!!! The holding tank for the head sits under the forward end of the engine pan and drilling thru that to create a drain to the bilge would be a real disaster!!! I think this is something you are going to have to live with on your boat. I would suggest making sure there aren't other cockpit leaks that contributing to the water accumulation there, i.e. lazerette leaks, leaking around the waste pump out fitting, etc. If your only water source is your well adjusted, dripping stuffing box it should be very easily managed, or even ignored!

[Steve Laume]

Raven also has her holding tank under the engine area as well. It does not extend up into the engine pan extrusion so drilling through the front of the pan is not an issue.

I don't worry too much about keeping a dry bilge. I know my cockpit lockers leak and that water ends up in the engine pan so having a drain works out well for me, Steve.

[David Morton]

On the 25D the tank IS the front wall of the engine pan! I wouldn't recommend drilling thru that.

[Steve Laume]

Well that doesn't look like something that would benefit from having holes drilled in it.

At least it looks like it will drain into the bilge without running out onto the cabin sole like my boat initially did.

It is pretty amazing how many different designs Cape Dory used for various things, Steve.

[David Morton]

BTW, Steve, what exactly is the "C" design of your CD 30C? I know the "B" has the forward head like my 25D.

[Sea Hunt Video]

Peter:

Another possible source of water in the engine pan (in addition to the stuffing box) is water seepage around the tiller's teak base plate. I have a dripless shaft seal (installed by PO) yet still had water in the engine sump. It was dripping down through the teak base plate. Once I sealed that with BoatLife caulk I have a mostly bone dry engine sump.

[Steve Laume]

BTW, Steve, what exactly is the "C" design of your CD 30C? I know the "B" has the forward head like my 25D.

David, the C is for cutter. The 30 was also built as a ketch and then there is the B model as well.

Cape Dory made a pretty astounding number of models and variations over the years, Steve.

[Joe Myerson]

Hey Peter,
Don't worry about it. Put a fuel-absorbing "diaper" in the pan and drain it periodically with a sponge. I have a special dirty sponge that I use for this purpose, as there is sometimes a bit of oily residue in the water.
Most of it comes from your packing gland. I was also getting some dripping from a leaking raw-water pump. I let it continue to drip for several seasons, because it was not a lot of water ... but the steady dripping caused my oil delivery tube to rust through, causing a total disaster.
I think you said you have replaced your water pump. If you have any leakage there, I'd suggest doing so.
--Joe
PS Creme Brulee splashes on Tuesday. She's been waiting for a week for the trucker to be available. I can't wait.

[Petersen]

Thanks folks for all your comments. I made the final adjustments to the stuffing box bolts to about 1 drop every 10 seconds while under engine power, which I understand is perfect. After a six hour trip on Sunday there was about a 1/4 cup of water in the basin with a couple of drops of oil. I have concluded that its probably a good design so you can tell if there is an excessive water/oil leak problem and will use the the absorbent material and sponge routine. I have also concluded that if there is an excessive leak it will overflow into bilge eventually before it reaches motor level. (unless it sinks!!)

I took Aeolus out for 1st time Sunday for a six hour hour sail/engine run and everything was great!
Have a great sailing Season!
Peter
CD25D#68