Interior Teak

[Subi-2's Day]

I have some damage to the teak panel on forward bulkhead on our CD-30. I ordered some paperbacked teak veneer that looks awesome but with a problem.

The new teak is considerably lighter than the existing teak in the boat. Any tips from all of you folks who have done interior work. I know teak darkens with age so i'm reluctant to stain it to match but I think that may be the only solution.

Ed

[Dave H]

Hi Ed,

You may be surprised how quickly the color change occurs. If you have any extra material, maybe leave a piece face up, but partially covered. After a week, remove the cover and see if you see a line of color change. Some years back, when I worked in architectural woodworking, we had a job with a lot of teak. In the case of solid pieces, when initially ripping them the freshly cut edges had a very different color. But it quickly changed to the nice brown color.

Dave

[Russell]

It will darken, a lot, with time. In a year you likely won't be able to tell. And remember, the varnish darkens it too. I wouldn't worry about it and can almost garuntee that if you try to use a stain to match it, you will regret it.

[Oswego John]

A little off subject, maybe.

A person that I know bought a boat (brand X) that has a black stain on the wooden floor. The best that we can figure is that the stain was caused by the previous owner's pet's urine, either a cat or probably a dog.

Does anyone have any ideas how to get rid of the stained section of the cabin veneer floor?

O J

[Cathy Monaghan]

Here's what I use when the teak gets really bad:

BoatLife Teak Brite Kreme Cleaner. It is like a creamy gel. You can either paint it on with a brush or use a dampened sponge. Wait a few minutes and go back and scrub it with a non-scratching sponge-backed Scotchbrite pad (for non-stick pots and pans not the heavy duty all purpose one). Wait a few more minutes and rinse it off. Anyway, that stuff really gets the teak clean.

http://www.boatlife.com/teak-brite-kreme-cleaner-16oz/

Cathy
CD32 Realization, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay
PS: Don's use teak cleaner on finished wood.

[Squid]

With reference to the Dog Stain…
I use this product each year on the black spots and it seems to work well. I also use their Teak Guard on the toe-rail in lieu of varnish. I have had good luck with their products to date. I also would consider trying some vinegar on the dog stain as well.

http://www.marinestore.com/faq-teak.htm ... 8215422648

With respect to the color of teak, agree with the other comments, contingent upon geo origin of the teak it will shift colors fairly quickly and adjust shade over time. Teak is a living wood so the oils inside will do their thing.

Glen

[Subi-2's Day]

Thanks for all the great feedback. I think I will just replace the damaged section and let time do it's thing. Either way it will look better than the previous veneer that is buckled and looks like crap.

[Maine_Buzzard]

Where did you purchase the veneer from? I have a similar issue under the hatch opening.

Thanks!

[Subi-2's Day]

I got a 2 foot x 8 foot section from Woodworkers Source, http://www.woodworkerssource.com

Looks like pretty good quality. Now the questions is to use contact adhesive or the Titebond III glue and iron method.

[joemerchant]

Also, if you want to darken the new veneer a little, leave it in the sun for a day or so. Found this out on accident.

[Keith]

Hi Ed,

Last year I replaced the entire starboard side of the cabin top where the 4 ports are on my CD30. It was held in place by only the trim boards. No adhesive at all. I don't know about the forward bulkhead. I have you taken out the old one yet to check?

Enjoy!

Keith

PS it was light at first also but after one year you can't tell the difference.

[Subi-2's Day]

No I haven't peeled the section off but it definitely is glued on. Pretty sure it's from the PO since it is a different type of wood and grain.

And yes I also read that a few days in the sun gives teak that South Beach tan.

I will report back one I dig into this project.

Ed
San Diego.

[pete faga]

What cleaner works best for the paperback veneer ?
Kathy recommended one product but maybe that was for teak?

[Russell]

I would try to avoid chemical cleaners on veneer if at all possible. They do soften and remove grain and you don't have much grain to work with on veneer. Granted its better then sanding though. They are pretty much all just oxalic acid though, which you can buy at a hardware store for far less then the "teak cleaner" at West Marine.

[Oswego John]

I second the motion for using oxalic acid. I recently used it on a place where animal urine had darkened the veneer on a friend's boat. It removed the stain satisfactorily.

I bought a pint plastic tub of the grainy (like fine sand) acid at Ace Hardware. It cost about $8.00.

Following directions, I mixed about a table spoon of the acid in hot tap water and made a runny paste. I daubed it on the stain and let it sit between 8 and 10 minutes. Then rinsed it off with clear water.

You must let the stained area dry completely in order to see the true color of the treated veneer. If it is wet or damp, the appearance will be darker than when it is dry. If it is not lightened enough to match the rest of the floor, repeat the process.

Good luck,
O J