replacing typhoon wknder solid stainless stern rub rail

[nscotia]

the rub rail on the stern of my typhoon, while polished has areas of corrosion and weak spots by some of the screw holes. I want to replace it. The screw holes are 6" on center and the rail is 5/8 " wide. its bent so that it fits well on the stern. I can not find a replacement on line. Could someone give me advise on how to replace this rub rail?

[Jeff D]

On my typhoon the stern rub strip is aluminum with a large radius bend. I think that it would be pretty easy to get a straight piece to conform to that bend starting in the center. I had a similar concern when I replaced my genoa tracks with longer lengths - easier done than said. Defender sell rub rails already drilled and countersunk in SS.

[Skeep]

Jeff, the question I have for Defender's product is, "Is the aluminum pre-bent for a Ty?" 'Cause attempting to curve that piece of metal is probably a bit difficult for those of us without a device to do so. Any ideas? I need a new one as well.

[Steve Laume]

You might want to use brass half oval. I am not sure how well pre-drilled stainless will follow the compound curve. The brass is pretty easy to work with and looks good on a Cape Dory. Roughly pre-bending before drilling the holes might make for a fairer curve. The brass, cuts, bends, drills and files easily. Buying blank stock will let you put the holes wherever you need then.

If you have a little left over it is great for protecting areas where you might have some chafing on your bright work, Steve.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... +Oval+Trim

[Skeep]

Good suggestion Steve. However looking at how my aluminum is knocked up, I think brass would wear considerably. Here is the photo of my stern rub-rail which I was finally able to load:



I do think there is merit in a good finished end to things. Question is, is this that? I guess as Dick stated below, one could simply finish it off with fiberglass...

[Dick Villamil]

When I renovated/restored my weekender I did away with the rub rail altogether. I did save it just in case I wanted to put it back to make it original. It actually looks better without it and I filled in the holes in the hull. Just don't bang up against the dock or another boat!

[nscotia]

Doesn't sound like stainless is going to work. Mine might be aluminum, polished...but getting close to splitting on a couple of holes. The other option I was thinking about is either teak or mahogany. Anyone try that? Thanks

[Oswego John]

Any Ty that I have/had used teak with limber holes for toe rails. The early Tys didn't have rub rails. When you tied up to a dock or finger float, you used at least three fenders, bow, midship and aft over the side.

O J

[Jim Walsh]

Brass is harder than aluminum so let's take that concern out of the equation.

[svreleaseme]

Sorry this is the only picture I have of the the stern. If you zoom in on the photo you can see that the wood piece on the top edge of the poop deck is contoured to match the curve of the stern and is in two pieces, split close to the chain plate in the center. It is more or less a straight piece that the curve was cut in to. Also you can see that the wood that is on the vertical face of the stern is thin enough that it can be bent to the shape of the stern and is also in two pieces to make this even easier. We have seen no need for a rub rail here from a practical sense and prefer the look of just the wood. I hope this can help.

[Skeep]

Looks like a great application for the Ty. I am trying to keep mine, the same year, as close to original as I can, thus the quest for a little piece of metal. I know the brass is a harder metal but it is also a costlier metal and once scratched up looks terrible lol. The aluminum on mine looks like it was installed in 1974 it is so scratched up.

[nscotia]

The wood trim fix in the picture looks fantastic. That what I am going to do. Thanks so much for sharing. Can you give me an idea of width and height? You boat looks very well taken care of. I may modify my engine mount like you did. Even though it is a long shaft, it doesn't like me when I go up on the bow to grab my mooring lines or pull the jib down. Thanks!

[svreleaseme]

I will try to remember to measure the wood next time I'm at the boat. Feel free to bug me if I forget. But if I were to guess I would say the vertical piece is about an inch and a quarter and the horizontal piece is about three inches. I do recommend the notched outboard mount. It does help keep the prop in the water. Many Ty's that have this mount have done the notch.
Regards,
Randy

[Dick Villamil]

That wood stern rub rail is sweet - wish I thought of that during the restoration - sounds like a summer project! Sure looks better than the aluminum rubrail. Since Victoria's stern coaming is showing her almost 40 years of use I might just do both!

[Zeida]

On my CD33 Bandolera II, I also have an aluminum strip going the full width of the stern. It was also just as ugly and beat-up. So 2 yrs. Ago when I was redoing the teak varnish! I decided to paint the strip with Rustoleum Black. It made a big difference at least to me. 2 yrs. Later, it is still holding up fine. I will be refurbishing my teak next month and will add a coat of the same rustoleum Black paint.