Engine Water Intake 'T' fitting

[Larry DeMers]

Hi,

I was thinking about sailing projects today, since we have another round of -25 deg. air coming Monday with highs in the single digits, and I need to get the sailing fire relit in my head.

I am trying to build a tee fitting that would fit into the engine water intake hose, and allow for the attachment of a hose to the T's third port. This third port needs to be threaded with garden hose threads so that I can use the running engine to; 1. pull water from outside, for engine cooling 2. pull water from the bilge or other spot in an emergency 3. Pull antifreeze from a jug into the engine during winterizing. While not in use, I want to use a threaded plug to block the T's third port.

Searching the hardware stores has turned up a PVC piece that would work, but I really want to use brass or bronze fittings instead.

So guys, know of a hardware source for metal hose parts like this? I bet there has to be a source with a complete supply of all these fittings, but I am not finding anything so far.

Anyone have another idea on how to accomplish this multi-connection?

Cheers and Beers,

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
CD30c Sailing Lake Superior

[Russell]

I have a bronze valve I use for this purpose.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... -Way+Valve

[Maine_Buzzard]

This thread covered things well:

http://capedory.org/board/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=31698

Rod's comment about never hooking a garden hose to the inlet is spot on.

The plate over the strainer works well. One could also pop a fitting into a spare cover.

[Maine_Buzzard]

And even in fresh water, brass on hull fittings is undesireable. Primarily because it may eventually move to saltwater at some time, and future owners may be unaware...

And electrolysis does happen in a lake too.

Plastic would be better, if it's strong enough.

[Steve Laume]

If you forget about trying to incorporate a garden hose your options become much better.

I teed off the engine intake for sea water at the galley foot pump. It is pretty easy to find all the fittings you will need in bronze. A tee, some nipples, a valve and a hose barb. You could leave a short piece of hose hooked up all the time. For running fresh water or antifreeze through the engine you would just need a bucket to draw out of.

While I have read a lot about using the engine as an emergency bilge pump, I don't think it is practical or prudent with our small engines. Right after high school, I worked on a 60' motor yacht and we did have a leak that involved the sea water intake. The captain used the intake hose to help clear the bilge but this was with a big V8 diesel engine and the hose was already disconnected and available. Our little engines only pump a couple of gallons a minute. The time you would lose messing around with the hose and the very real possibility of disabling your engine by sucking up debris or running it dry don't seem worth the risk for so little gain.

I installed a large bilge pump with a manual switch. If or when I have had a water issue I flick the switch and start looking for the problem immediately. If I were not able to find and stop the leak, I would start the engine to be sure the batteries did not draw down and go to work on the manual pump.

In a situation where you thought you needed the engine to help de-water, I feel you are far better served by not having to worry about the possibility of losing power, Steve.

[boogie]

I installed a Tee valve before the raw water filter. It is connected to the filter in the middle. One side connected to the Intake hose and the other side is a nipple for garden hose and alike.
I can winterize my Engine without taking apart my engine intake hose. And I have an emergency Bilge Pump.

[mashenden]

This thread covered things well:

http://capedory.org/board/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=31698

Rod's comment about never hooking a garden hose to the inlet is spot on.

The plate over the strainer works well. One could also pop a fitting into a spare cover.

My first "T" valve design was done assuming 1-1/2" hoses, only to find out they are 1 1/4" so I built another one that is now in place - as always, measure once, cut twice . When I get pics of the final installation I will update the other post - it works well. I also built a gravity bucket with a toilet value and a kill switch in the engine compartment. Now winterizing truly is a one person job (Shame on my fair weather crew).

If anyone has a need for a "T" valve that is the slightly larger size, it is for sale on eBay. Make me an offer. I need to reclaim some workbench space back for my next projects - getting a fridge unit working and putting some final touches on my wifi hot spot design. They are currently cluttering my desk like a hoarder's desk!! No, not me. Naw. Nope... No way.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281239760245

[mashenden]

And even in fresh water, brass on hull fittings is undesireable. Primarily because it may eventually move to saltwater at some time, and future owners may be unaware...

And electrolysis does happen in a lake too.

Plastic would be better, if it's strong enough.

I would be concerned with using plastic below the water line. Brittle when cold and less forgiving to freezing (albeit the valve should be closed if it is that cold).