Tackling the Cutlass Bearing

[barfwinkle]

Good morning to all

Well I'm pretty sure that after 30 years Rhapsody's Cutlass Bearing needs replacing (there's slop/wiggle laterally). The owner's manual (1983) has a schematic with the title reading "CD 22D, 25D, 27, 30 Propeller Shaft Details" but the actual schematic states "CD 27, 30 Shaft Detail". This drawing indicates that there are "Set Screws (4 each)" and shows their location.

Unless I screw something up, this should not be too big a project, but reading elsewhere on the site, I see posts stating that there are two set screws. Can someone ho's been there, done that (esp on a 25D) please clarify for me A) how many set screws does the 25D have & B) where are they located (port, starb'd or both?)

Obviously, if the condition of the shaft dictates, I'll be replacing it as well. The question is Bronze or SS?

TIA, FW & HNY

[Gary H]

I can only tell you that on the 22D there are 2 set screws- at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock. They were pretty easy to find with a grinder. I feathered the hole to about a 6 inch diameter for reglassing.

[Russell]

If you have a spartan bronze stern tube, it should be 2 set screws.

[frank3]

I have a 25D also. The set screws are at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock on the outside. You only need to sand down the fairing compound to find them, you don't need to use a grinder. Mine also had two set screws on the inside, you'll see them after you remove the hose.

[barfwinkle]

Thank you all.

Frank by the hose are you referring to the stuffing box hose on the inside of the boat? The schematic shows two ste screws on the shaft in the engine compartment.

FW & HNY to all!

[Sea Hunt Video]

For those of us (me) unfamiliar with how to change a cutlass bearing I found this interesting article from Cruising World. It's 4 years old but probably still relevant.

http://www.cruisingworld.com/how-to/mai ... n-the-hard

I wish everyone on this board and their families and friends a Safe and Happy New Year.

Felice Anno Nuovo

[Gary H]

Bill,
I submerged the new bearing in a bucket of ice for an hour prior to installing it. The diameter contracts temporarily making installation very easy. No pounding was required.

I also used a sawzall to make lateral cuts in the old bearing and the bent it in upon itself with pliers and vice grip. Be careful not to score the shaft with the sawzall.

The actual job was easier than expected. Make sure to replace the hose. Good luck with getting the coupling off of your prop shaft. You may wind up cutting it and replacing the shaft and coupling. I removed my shaft from the inside with the engine out, but replaced the shaft anyways.
Gary

[barfwinkle]

Good luck with getting the coupling off of your prop shaft. You may wind up cutting it and replacing the shaft and coupling.

Gary (et al) I have to say I am dreading the entire disassembly in the engine compartment. I think the rest will go pretty smoothly. I do have a puller that I hope will the the job on the coupler.

I'm off to pull the prop!

FW & HNY

[barfwinkle]

The saga continues

Anyone ever pull the engine coupler with the engine in place (on a 25D)? Not sure I want to read the response but I need to know!

Fair winds.

[RC James]

After uncoupling the driveshaft flange, the propshaft and attached flange were seemingly one-piece. No room to swing a hammer.
Used Don Casey's "Socket/Bolt" extension method. Time consuming, but w/lubricant and progressively longer bolts/sockets inserted between the face of the 2 flanges, the prop shaft was eventually pressed out of the flange.

The cutlass bearing was sawn out using a hacksaw blade.... didn't know about the set-screws until after folding the tube in on itself and pulling it out./As mentioned.... 3/9 o'clock position.

Time consuming, but easy enough job--- if you enjoy standing on your head when decoupling.

RJ

[Gary H]

Bill,
I would be happy to lend you my prop puller for the cost of round trip postage. It worked like a charm for me.
As to the shaft coupling, the above mentioned method of using the engine coupling as a puller may very well work; however, there is some risk in damaging the engine/transmission coupling which would then require big bucks and time. If it were me, I would cut the shaft with a sawzall. A new shaft and coupling is under $200 and you may have decided on a new shaft anyways. My 30 year old shaft showed some wear under the stuffing box and was not 100% straight. You don't want to have to do this job again.
Gary

[barfwinkle]

SUCKAR

Gary thank you for the offer. Now all I have to do is get the coupler off before the winter blast hits tomorrow nite! High on Moandy (sic) is forecast at 18°

Fair Winds

[Gary H]

18 degrees sounds positively balmy. Below zero in upstate NY - sure hope my antifreeze is doing its job.

[frank3]

Bill, you definitely should cut the shaft with a sawzall rather than risk bending the output flange on the transmission . Your existing shaft may already not pass muster. It'll be a much better job with a new shaft and cutlass bearing, as Gary said you don't want to do it over. It's 8 degrees in southern Maine.

[barfwinkle]

Okay Captains Commanding you talked me into besides I know I'm getting a new shaft!

Stay warm & FW