Volvo D1-20 Re-Power

[Subi-2's Day]

Does anyone have any experience or knowledge of using the Volvo D1-20 engine to re-power a CD30? It looks like there are some re-power brackets that you can get. I'm wondering is this would be easier than building up the stringers and some of the other issues with the Beta 16 option?

I'm not sure you could use the old Walther's V-Drive due to alignment issues but maybe you could?

[Ron M.]

Which engine do you have ? I had the yanmar ysb 12 and put in a d-120 3 years ago.
Forward stringer mounts were cut down about an inch, rear mounts padded about 1/2".
I made forward mounting brackets from 5/8" aluminum angle, not using volvo's - too short.
Very pleased with the re-power, it's a different boat under power.
In my opinion.......replace the entire drive train. Transmission, shaft, prop, exhaust, etc.
Expensive yes, cost me just under 10k for everything. good luck.

[Subi-2's Day]

We have the Volvo MD7A. Yes, we are planning on replace the whole drive train, but it the labor that is driving the cost up. I'm still looking for the best re-power option. The option that requires the least amount of stringer modification which drive the labor cost up.

[Adamhagan]

My CD30k was repowered with a Volvo D1-20 6 years ago. I think it is the perfect amount of power and I'm really happy with it. The PO had it professionally installed and I have all the documentation if it may be of help.

good luck

[Subi-2's Day]

Adamhagen, can you tell me what transmission you used for your D1-20?

Also did you know if the yard that did your work had to modify the stingers very much? I'm think with a different V-Drive from the Walthers that the D1-20 won't be a direct replacement.

Any details you can provide would be a big help.

Feel free to directly e-mail.

[Adamhagan]

I will go to the boat this weekend and reference all the manuals and documents from the repower. Everything was replaced from prop to engine. If I don't email you by Monday please send me another message.

[Ron M.]

Subi,
I did my re-power myself so I cant comment on labor cost - although Im sure its significant.
As I recall it took me 4/5 days with some assistance from a friend one of those days.
An experienced old timer advised me to get the old engine out and the new one in the boat and forget building a mock up.
With a hoist mounted over the companion way I was able to jockey the motor into position and determine stringer modifications, not rocket science if you can read a ruler and protractor.
The motor mounts provide for final 'tuning' adjustments .
From what I have learned, if you dont want to tackle this yourself, you may want to consider going with the Beta.
A contributor to this site is a dealer and has what looks like a simple stringer modification that would save time as I believe his solution is for the same boat and motor as yours.
Heard nothing but positive reviews on the Beta diesel.
As for the transmission, I used a ZF Hurth v-drive.