Cape Dory 25D seacocks

[Sea Hunt Video]

Robert,

Just curious. Why would you have to replace the seacock if you only have to cut or drill out the bolt holding it in place to remove it? Seems this could be accomplished without damaging the seacock.

Steve:

That is my goal. Figure out a way to get the nut and bolt out without damaging the seacock plate, etc. However, I am generally not very good at removing things without causing damage. Yesterday, I thought of using a .45 cal hollowpoint to "remove" the offending nut. Then I considered the ricochetting consequences inside of a small Vberth and reholstered.

I may try to use a hacksaw and cut off the bolt below the nut, if possible. Then figure out how to remove the seacock base plate, etc. It seems to be securely attached to the disintegrating plywood backing plate -probably with 5200 or similar.

The concern I have is that this particular seacock is the most easily accessible, with no obstructions. I tried getting to the most difficult one (no access) the other day and could not even get a wrench on the bolts. I am thinking this is going to be a long project with days spent cursing.

[ch.ocallaghan]

Robert,

I found that a dremel with a cutoff wheel made short work of the corroded nuts and bolts on the seacocks I replaced. For those tight places the Flex Shaft attachment made things easier. After cutting through the bolt, you can just punch them out of the boat. The seacock base remained undamaged.

Another way if doing it is to drill off the heads of the bolts from the outside. Then you can push the bolt in from the outside.

Chris

[Joe Myerson]

Chris is right.

I bought a Dremel, with the flexible extension, to cut through some old, embedded bolts. It sure beat using a hacksaw!

Good luck--it's an ambitious project you've taken on.

--Joe

[Sea Hunt Video]

Have decided to modify battle plan. As is well documented, the best battle plan NEVER survives first contact with the enemy.

This morning I spent two (2) hours trying to remove the forward Vberth/marine head seacock. I used a Dremel to cut off the bolts and nuts that were frozen in place. I was then able to remove only one bolt from the seacock and hull. In the process of attempting to remove the other bolt I managed to damage the Spartan seacock housing and the lightning ground wire connection to the seacock in the process.

Apparently, you need a special tool to actually remove the seacock from the hull. Who knew

I have carefully reexamined the remaining four (4) seacocks. While each has a substantial amount of "patina" on them, not one has shown any leakage or weeping during the past two (2) years. The handles move reasonably smoothly except the two cockpit scupper drain seacocks which are very difficult to move but are in the "open" position.

My revised battle plan at this time is to replace the marine head/Vberth seacock and to leave untouched the remaining four seacocks. If and when the day comes that I have to remove the Yanmar 1GM 7.5, I will then consider a full frontal assault on these four (4) seacocks.

Sooooooooooooooooo, given the above revised plan of battle, does anyone know with certainty the correct size of the seacock in the marine head/Vberth on a Cape Dory 25D I have taken 4-5 different measurements on what remains of the seacock and it appears to be a 1/2" ID for the connection between the female portion of the seacock and a to-be-purchased hose for the raw water intake.

The smallest seacock from Spartan appears to be a 3/4" (Part No. S636)

Does anyone know what is the correct part number for a Spartan seacock to replace what appears to be the original seacock for the marine head

Thanks in advance.

The only really good news today is that the Miami Dolphins won their opener against Cleveland Browns. Bad news is we had an electrical outage in our neighborhood for 3 hours during most of the game. Had to listen to it on a portable radio. Actually brought back some fond memories of listening to NFL games broadcast overseas.

[Sea Hunt Video]

As usual, I do things "ass backwards". I just finished reading Maine Sail's tutorial on removing and replacing thru-hulls and seacocks.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_thruhulls

They got this thing called a "step wrench". Who knew

[barfwinkle]

This is a family friendly site Robert. You mean Bass Ackwards

fair winds

[Sea Hunt Video]

Steve:

Not surprisingly, I managed to do significant damage to the seacock "plate" that sits on the plywood backing plate. I am concerned about its "integrity" so have decided to bite the bullet and purchase a new one. I will keep the parts from the old one but from all I have read it may not be possible to mix old and new parts.

Anyways, I now find myself in need of a "step wrench" to remove the thru hull. I have researched this on line, including going to Hamilton Marine as suggested by Maine Sail in his tutorial. The only seacocks I can find that even suggest they can be used for a seacock other than their special brand also state very clearly "not to be used to remove thru hulls".

Does anyone know of a place I can purchase a "step wrench" to REMOVE the existing Spartan thru hull and then install a new "identical" Spartan thru hull and seacock

Alternatively, does anyone have a "step wrench" they would be willing to let me borrow for a week or so. I'll pay shipping both ways.

Thanks in advance.

[ch.ocallaghan]

Robert,

Get one of these at Home Depot for $15.00. Works great on 25D thru-hulls.

Chris

------------------------------------------------------

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1-1/2 in. W x 2 in. L x 10-1/4 in. H
MFG Model # : B8618
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[Sea Hunt Video]

This is a family friendly site Robert. You mean Bass Ackwards

fair winds

Very well.

Sooooooooo, I have apparently done things "Bass Ackwards". In no particular order of stupidity, I document the following:

1. I assumed I had to remove the "seacock" before removing the "thru hull". According to Paul at Spartan Marine - wrong Remove the "thru hull", then remove the two nuts, washers, bolts, etc. and then remove the "seacock".

2. I assumed the "seacock" included the "thru hull". Wrong again. They are two separate parts that are sold separately. Having ordered a "seacock" several days ago, today I asked Paul to send me a new thru hull. Surprise Spartan is out of this size thru hull but hopes to be able to ship in two (2) weeks, possibly longer. So, S/V Bali Ha'i will remain on the hard for several more weeks at least. Working on sailboats is FUN

3. I removed one of the two bolts holding the backing plate and flange base of the seacock body in place on the interior of the hull. The bolt appears to be bronze. In attempting to remove the other bolt I managed to sheer the bolt into two pieces. As of now, neither piece will come out.

4. I am trying to find a place that sells bronze bolts, washers, nuts, etc. so that I do NOT use dissimilar metals on the seacock and thru hull. So far no luck. Will try "McMaster Carr" (sp ) later today.

5. Still unable to find a "step wrench". Chris, I tried all of the local Home Depot stores. None of them carry the item you referenced. Paul (Spartan Marine) suggested using an auto parts store to see if they have a "radiator step wrench". Paul said it may work but may not be strong/solid enough to overcome the forces that are holding the thru hull in place.

A brief comment about Paul at Spartan Marine. He spent almost 1/2 hour with me this morning explaining in "painful" detail the correct steps for removing the seacock and thru hull and offered suggestions about tools to use instead of a "step wrench". (1/4" flat bar steel, Stilson wrench, etc.) Paul was very helpful and he did not laugh once at my many, many mistakes. Good guy.

When this "seacock/thru hull" project is done I will be an "expert" at thru hull removal and installation, perhaps almost as good as Maine Sail. Says the dummy in jest.

So, if anyone has any pearls of wisdom, suggestions, recommendations, etc., I will be very grateful.

[Sea Hunt Video]

Forgot to ask an important question.

What is the material for the two bolts that are screwed into the outside of the hull and thru the backing plate and flange base of the seacock body Bronze, silicon bronze, stainless steel, brass or other

When I removed one of the bolts it looked like bronze but I am not sure. In searching for bronze flat head bolts I was not able to find any - including at McMaster-Carr website.

Also, the copper grounding wire clip that slips over one of the above bolts was slightly damaged in my efforts to remove the seacock base. I am assuming I can just attach a copper washer above or below the copper grounding wire clip to keep a sufficient "surface" contact with the copper grounding wire. Thoughts

Maine Sail, any interest in flying to Florida to visit with relatives and making a 2 day excursion to Miami to fix all of my many, many screw ups. Cold Guinness draft awaits.

Projected rain and wind all day today and probably into tomorrow and Wednesday. No boat work today for sure.

[barfwinkle]

Robert on the small (3/4") thru hulls, a 1/2" socket drive fits perfectly at least it has/did on mine and I have re-done all three 3/4" seacocks.

Fair Winds

[Sea Hunt Video]

Robert on the small (3/4") thru hulls, a 1/2" socket drive fits perfectly at least it has/did on mine and I have re-done all three 3/4" seacocks.

Fair Winds

Bill, a "socket drive" to my mind is for removing bolts. I need to find something that will go "up into" the thru hull from the outside, catch on the two "lugs" or "slots" on each side of the interior of the thru hull and then apply force to turn and remove the thru hull.

[Russell]

Robert on the small (3/4") thru hulls, a 1/2" socket drive fits perfectly at least it has/did on mine and I have re-done all three 3/4" seacocks.

Fair Winds

Bill, a "socket drive" to my mind is for removing bolts. I need to find something that will go "up into" the thru hull from the outside, catch on the two "lugs" or "slots" on each side of the interior of the thru hull and then apply force to turn and remove the thru hull.

Anything that catches the two spots works. I have used a chisel, a peice of scrap metal, a peice of wood, really anything lying around thats the right width works. A socket drive sounds fine if its the right width and probably awfully convenient for applying force (note he is talking about a driver sans socket here, the square head would probably fit nicely).

[Markst95]

Robert- I've had good luck with Jamestown Distributors for bronze screws, bolts, ect. I believe the ones you want are silicon bronze.


http://www.jamestowndistributors.com

[ch.ocallaghan]

Ah, the joy of learning a new skill.

Whatever tool you use, chances are that as you apply turning force to the thru-hull, you'll shear off the 'little ears' that the tool is resting against, prompting another round of family unfriendly epithets and general slamming around of things.

I've found (the hard way) that it pays to preheat the thru-hull with a heat gun to soften the adhesive caulk holding things together before applying force.

Also, Bolt Depot is a great resource for all kinds of fasteners. I've used their Silicon Bronze machine screws:

http://www.boltdepot.com/Machine_screws ... ronze.aspx