CD-10 Gunnel replacement

[GPWINSTON]

Hi. One of my winter projects is going to be the replacement of the badly deteriorated mahogany gunnels on my CD-10. I checked the archives, but could find little information on the topic. Has anyone out there had experience with making/sourcing replacement mahogany gunnels for a CD-10? I'm OK with wood/carpentry on a "slightly better than beginner" level, but I'd probably be better off with having the wood ripped/routed by a true woodworker. Not sure how much expertise a job like this takes: do things need to be steamed in order to fit them? Any information will be greatly appreciated, as I'm just starting out, and am currently at the planning stage. Thanks!

[mashenden]

In case you did not see my thread...

http://www.capedory.org/board/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=27097

It was more about repairing a CD-10 transom, but I also replaced the gunnels (with teak. $$, but beautiful). I mention my approach in one of the latter posts. I did not steam them in but it definitely took force, many clamps and caution as well as a few test runs to get them into place.

I now know how to post pics so I'll add them next week (Tuesday, if possible).

[Dick Villamil]

I replaced the damaged inner and outer gunnel strips on my CD 10. I used mahogany boards that were longer the nececssary that I cut to the same dimensions then scarfed them into the good wood after steaming and setting in a jig that was made on a large board to allow the steamed wood to dry in place. I also removed the old pieces from the boat - there are screws that attach the outer rail and separate screws that attach the inner rail. I cleaned and filled the fiberglass where these screw holes were located then bent and clamped the new pieces after marking the hull where the old screws were located. I used brown 3M 4200 caulk in the seam when I screwed the boards in place. After they were screwed in place I shaped the pieces to get the same rounded edges and ends that was on the original piece. All screw holes were plugged with mahogany from the ends of the same boards I used. It was a nail biter but worked out perfectly. One thing to remember is to place braces along the interior to maintain the actual hull shape since the new wood will tend to flatten the curve of the boat due to the thin fiberglass construction. The wood gunwales give the boat rigidity and hold its shape once they are back in place.

[Brian A.]

The restoration of my CD-10 included the replacement of all wood. For the gunnels, I had a friend rip the mahogany strips which I then steam bent as illustrated in the attached photo link. Cheers and good luck, Brian

http://www.flickr.com/photos/45774240@N ... 403212097/