Cape Dory 22 owners.. A question
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Cape Dory 22 owners.. A question
A question for CD22 owners year 1981. What prevents the rudder shaft from sliding up the tube about 3/4 inch? There is space between the top of the rudder and the hull--about 3/4 in. There does not seem to be space for a bushing as the shaft is so close to the aft surface of the keel. The rudder is firmly attached to the shaft. The shaft does not come out of the shoe. Any proven solutions you can share would be appreciated. Thanks Roger
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NateHanson
- Posts: 116
- Joined: May 10th, '12, 07:02
- Location: CD 22 "Real Quiet Echo" Ellsworth, ME
Re: Cape Dory 22 owners.. A question
What's the problem you're trying to solve?
My rudder moves up and down a bit, but I've not considered that a problem, since the bottom of the rudder shaft remains firmly in the shoe.
I'll have to look at mine to see if it moves 3/4". My recollection would be that it was less than that.
My rudder moves up and down a bit, but I've not considered that a problem, since the bottom of the rudder shaft remains firmly in the shoe.
I'll have to look at mine to see if it moves 3/4". My recollection would be that it was less than that.
Re: Cape Dory 22 owners.. A question
I second what Nate said. Mine moves up and down a bit but hasn't been a problem.
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Oswego John
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Re: Cape Dory 22 owners.. A question
A little vertical movementis okay.Too much movement, enough to allow the bottom of the rudder post to jump out of the shoe is unacceptable.
Most of the Tys, especially the earlier ones, relied on the weight of the rudder assembly along with gravity to keep everything in place.
Several times in the past, I have used vertical movement to save me a lot of work when mending rudder problems. This little trick will work on smaller CDs with a straight rudder post extending from the tiller to the lower shoe and some larger CDs with the bent post.
I may forget to post all of the steps involved but here is the general idea of what I did.
When mending or rebuilding a rudder blade, I could avoid much labor of grinding the glass on the keel that covered where the shoe was pinned to the lower keel, removing the shoe in order to remove the rudder assembly, and later on repinning the shoe to the lower keel and reglassing the shoe assembly.
Remove the tiller and the bronze tiller pivot from the upper end of the rudder post. Mark the rudder post where it touches the shoe. From below, move the rudder blade HARD over and lift the assembly upward. While held up, measure the travel from the new mark on the post to the shoe. Determine how much more, if any, the assembly has to rise for the post to clear the shoe. Sometimes the rise is adequate. Sometimes it has to be increased.
With the rudder blade still held hard over and the assembly raised as high as possible, Magic Mark the blade where it hits the hull. Swing the blade hard over to the other side and mark the blade where it contacts the hull. Remove this meat from the blade, it shouldn't take much stock removal. Test after removal to see if the rudder assembly will pop out of the shoe. If necessary, remove stock from the blade in small increments until assembly removable is possible.
After rudder rebuilding is completed, it is very important to seal any exposed areas of the blade after removing any stock.
O J
Most of the Tys, especially the earlier ones, relied on the weight of the rudder assembly along with gravity to keep everything in place.
Several times in the past, I have used vertical movement to save me a lot of work when mending rudder problems. This little trick will work on smaller CDs with a straight rudder post extending from the tiller to the lower shoe and some larger CDs with the bent post.
I may forget to post all of the steps involved but here is the general idea of what I did.
When mending or rebuilding a rudder blade, I could avoid much labor of grinding the glass on the keel that covered where the shoe was pinned to the lower keel, removing the shoe in order to remove the rudder assembly, and later on repinning the shoe to the lower keel and reglassing the shoe assembly.
Remove the tiller and the bronze tiller pivot from the upper end of the rudder post. Mark the rudder post where it touches the shoe. From below, move the rudder blade HARD over and lift the assembly upward. While held up, measure the travel from the new mark on the post to the shoe. Determine how much more, if any, the assembly has to rise for the post to clear the shoe. Sometimes the rise is adequate. Sometimes it has to be increased.
With the rudder blade still held hard over and the assembly raised as high as possible, Magic Mark the blade where it hits the hull. Swing the blade hard over to the other side and mark the blade where it contacts the hull. Remove this meat from the blade, it shouldn't take much stock removal. Test after removal to see if the rudder assembly will pop out of the shoe. If necessary, remove stock from the blade in small increments until assembly removable is possible.
After rudder rebuilding is completed, it is very important to seal any exposed areas of the blade after removing any stock.
O J
"If I rest, I rust"
Voting Member #490
Voting Member #490
Re: Cape Dory 22 owners.. A question
Hi---It is not a problem as the shaft remains in the shoe. There is no upward movement on any point of sail. I was curious to find out if anyone had a creative bushing installation. I have zero horizontal play and would prefer the shaft did not rise but I can live with it until I have insight to a bushing solution. Thanks for the response. Roger. CDSO no.1463