Parfait's voyage back from Hell

[mashenden]

At the top of my priority list is to get the engine control panel back in working condition (see melted panel below). This seemed like a good time to implement Ken's vision of moving the gauges to a Nav Pod on the steering station so that the Capt can actually see them. I decided to keep the start/stop function in the old location because... well, something had to fill that hole. If I'm ever pushed for a logical reason, I have also rationalized that a diesel is supposed to run for several minutes under no load prior to turning it off - this will encourage that to happen.

I also liked having the battery switch at this location since it is more likely to be set correctly and is not too difficult to reach from the cabin.

Other than the disadvantage of doing a heated dance with the steering station should the engine quit while docking, it seems to work well having the key and battery switch at the old control panel location and the gauges etc at the steering station. And if urgent starting becomes an issue even once, then a parallel key switch on the Nav Pod is an option.

The Nav Pod still needs some switches, a buzzer, and idiot lights in series with the ones at the control panel. Also the tach will need a "Cape Dory" sticker to cover "Mercury". In case anyone is wondering... the gauges were $85 for all of them as new, never used surplus. They were for Mercury diesels with a tach having similar flywheel tooth sensing as the Yanmar - It will probably not be exact but I suspect that it will be just fine for a good reference.

Out with the old:




In with the new - Replacement control panel:


New gauges that will be located at the steering station:

[Maine_Buzzard]

Interesting idea-

Why not add parallel buttons for the starter and stop solenoid at the display panel. Wire it so the key would have to be on for the starter button, and the stop should get 12v whenever the battery switch is on. No conflicts if both start buttons are pressed simultaneously, and much easier to watch the gauges.

You can calibrate the tach- I'm ordering a non-contact tach at Amazon for less than $20. I'll give some feedback on it in a few weeks.

[mashenden]

Interesting idea-

Why not add parallel buttons for the starter and stop solenoid at the display panel. Wire it so the key would have to be on for the starter button, and the stop should get 12v whenever the battery switch is on. No conflicts if both start buttons are pressed simultaneously, and much easier to watch the gauges...

Good point on the Start button rather than a key switch. In fact I'm going to do that now. For me, no need for a Stop button on the Nav Pod.

[mashenden]

Demolition has started in the aft part of the cabin...

Prior to demolition:


After cleaning out the bird's nest of burnt wires and charred cabinets:


The vision (OK, maybe not ):

[Steve Laume]

You have now won the prize for the nastiest original wiring ever seen on a Cape Dory. At least you will not be tempted to clean up and reuse what is there.

What is going in the flat space next to the tach on the control board? I really like the idea of having things up where you can see them, Steve.

[Russell]

With the cabnetry removed the damage does not look as bad as it could have been. The fire seemed to try its best to restrict itsself to wire. Do you see any damage to the bridgedeck fibreglass now that you have some of the plywood removed?

Are you going to restore the galley cabnets to origonal? Or do something new? All the drawer fronts and such looked salvageable, it looked like the ply could mostly be reused as well with just some new formica on it.

I think the origonal setup works pretty well, though one change I would make if I were redoing it, is the sliding door storage, I would make the doors full height (about 3" taller), getting tall bottles and boxes in and out, which do fit once inside, is a pain with the slightly too short doors.

[Shinok]

I still fail to understand why so much wire is necessary.

You should've seen the amount of wire I pulled out of our CD27, it was at least 3 garbage bags full. It just seems like so much wiring is unnecessary and dangerous.

[John Ring]

...I think the origonal setup works pretty well, though one change I would make if I were redoing it, is the sliding door storage, I would make the doors full height (about 3" taller), getting tall bottles and boxes in and out, which do fit once inside, is a pain with the slightly too short doors.

Like this?



Does seem to work pretty well.
John
CD36 Tiara
http://home.comcast.net/~ringj/

[mashenden]

You have now won the prize for the nastiest original wiring ever seen on a Cape Dory. At least you will not be tempted to clean up and reused what is there.

What is going in the flat space next to the tach on the control board? I really like the idea of having things up where you can see them, Steve.

The wiring was a mess. I look like I worked a double shift in the coal mines each time I work on her.

Regarding the Nav Pod, the flat spot is probably going to house the autopilot control. Since the radar/chart plotter and depth are on a panel that is up high, this panel will be mounted below the center of the wheel (as it is designed) but still very visible.

With the cabnetry removed the damage does not look as bad as it could have been. The fire seemed to try its best to restrict itsself to wire. Do you see any damage to the bridgedeck fibreglass now that you have some of the plywood removed?

Are you going to restore the galley cabnets to origonal? Or do something new? All the drawer fronts and such looked salvageable, it looked like the ply could mostly be reused as well with just some new formica on it.

I think the origonal setup works pretty well, though one change I would make if I were redoing it, is the sliding door storage, I would make the doors full height (about 3" taller), getting tall bottles and boxes in and out, which do fit once inside, is a pain with the slightly too short doors.

Most of the glass damage was to the layer that was below the layer that is the bridge. That said I will be epoxying some ply and glass underneath of the bridge since some epoxy burned off. It flexes a bit too much to ignore.

The galley design could be put back to exactly how it was. As you mentioned, all the tricky teak parts survived. I am considering a design change that incorporates the teak door from the engine room access area. It is way too nice to be hidden in the quarter berth, plus it would make the sliding door area almost full height. Not 100% sure yet. The electrical panels and the clean up first, then get it to VA, then probably finish the cabinets this winter.

Like this?

Does seem to work pretty well.
John
CD36 Tiara
http://home.comcast.net/~ringj/

Wow, that really does work!! At this point I cannot imagine that much shine. I do like the teak rather than the Formica. And I have a bunch of teak from another project... Hummmmmm.

[Russell]

Wow John, that is impressive, is that corian on the counters (or something similar)? Or formica? I have always wanted to redo my galley with corian.

[John Ring]

Thanks!

That's just faux granite vinyl sheet. When the faux granite vinyl goes outta style I'll replace it with faux stainless vinyl sheet.

Cheers,
John
CD36 Tiara

[mashenden]

Thanks!

That's just faux granite vinyl sheet. When the faux granite vinyl goes outta style I'll replace it with faux stainless vinyl sheet.

Cheers,
John
CD36 Tiara

Did you do the new vinyl? Reason for asking is I'd like to know if the old stuff pops off and it is just a matter of sizing the new vinyl and gluing it down (no teak trim work). I'd also prefer corian, but probably not if replacing the vinyl was that easy.

[John Ring]

I didn't do the galley on Tiara, but nothing's easier than vinyl. The old stuff usually pops right off. Use new teak trim to hold the edges down & it all looks really nice.

A local buddy put a Corian top in the head on his CD36. Corian is more work & expense. And if you cut Corian wrong you're out some $.

John
CD36 Tiara

[mashenden]

The replacement DC panel cabinet and teak front are making progress (the discoloration in the teak is a reflection).

Also, the Main AC Breaker is ready for installation. It will go between the shore power connector and the isolation transformer. Physically it will mount next to the shore power connector, but on the backside (in the lazarette) covering the wires to both.

[mashenden]

This past weekend I was able to glass in the reinforcement under the bridge and put the new DC panel cabinet into place (pic below). The glassed/epoxied ply held in place with a bottle jack while curing did the trick. No flex when entering the cabin now.

The damaged fiberglass is removed and most of the charred wood is either removed and/or sealed with a couple of layers of epoxy. Does she smell as fresh as a Spring day, no. But I am able to stay aboard now with minimal train... grain ... drain damage.

I also got the AC wiring figured out, installed the new breaker, and moved the isolation transformer to the lazarette. That really made the starboard cockpit locker much more usable. Not a priority, but while I was there, what the hell. The AC panel is finally on its way after a couple of miscues where suppliers advertised it on eB but then did not have it. Odd (I hope that is not a trend - pretty annoying).

Next weekend I hope to have the companionway teak sanded and sealed (very charred right now), hatch interior surface redone, some of the cabin ceiling repainted, as well as the propane hose (a pre-fire project that also needs completed) and battery cables installed, as I work from stern forward.