Cape Dory 22 restoration

[seasailor55]

Photos of the restoration of Cape Dory 22 # 161 for a youth sailing program. The boat is a 1984 model, and was donated along with all her gear and a trailer, to a Boy Scout troop.

The hull had numerous gouges on the port topsides, along with soft spots in the deck and cockpit floor. Working with scouts and adult volunteers, the hardware was removed, the deck and cockpit areas were re-cored with Baltek and hundreds of gelcoat cracks were filled using MarineTex epoxy filler. The boat was then prepped for painting with Amercoat 235H two part epoxy primer.

The bottom photo was taken when the boat was picked up, the second photo is the boat in the paint booth, showing the portside gouges filled and faired, the top photo is the boat with primer applied, ready for the polyurethane topcoat.

[seasailor55]

Since only 3 attachments are allowed per post, I'll continue here. After the Amercoat 235H primer dried overnight, we applied Amercoat 450H two part Aliphatic Polyurethane in Hatteras Off White. This is a heavy solids top coat with excellent coverage and gloss.

[seasailor55]

Continuing on, photos of the non-skid deck coating. We used Amercoat 450H Hatteras Off White polyurethane tinted to a sand color, mixed with Rhino polymer particles. The non skid deck areas were masked off and the finish was applied with a 4" roller. It produced a glossy high friction surface, wet or dry.

[Johnd]

Nice work for a great cause too! I love the 22, and need to re-do my non-skid, fill cracks etc. Any details/input would be gratefully accepted.

John d

[billc]

beautiful job

[seasailor55]

Thanks for the comments. It's been a lot of work, but it's coming together. As far as refinishing the non-skid, here's what we did:

We used 14 oz. kits of MarineTex Epoxy filler (available at West Marine) in white. It is a 2 part epoxy that has the consistency of sheetrock mud (plaster) when mixed. Working time when catalyzed is 2 - 4 hrs, temperature dependent.

We filled in the gelcoat cracks, holes, etc. using a 4" plastic squeegee, let them dry overnight and sanded down the next day using 150 grit paper. Some areas needed a second filling, then additional sanding. Where the deck areas were re-cored, we sanded the patched areas smooth, masked off the non-skid areas, then skimmed a thin coat of MarineTex over the repair. While the epoxy was tacky, I used an old towel to stamp a random texture into the non-skid areas.

After priming and painting the hull and deck, I masked off the original non-skid areas using blue 3M Painter's Tape, (It looks much nicer if you round the outside corners per the original non-skid pattern) and took a quart of the Hatteras Off White finish coat to a PPG paint dealer and had them tint the paint a sand grey color. You can get them to tint to the color you desire (within the base coat tinting range), or use an entirely different color, if you like. We used Rhino brand non-skid polymer particles mixed into the tinted polyurethane to create a uniform non-skid coating. You can use other non-skid particles, even fine sand if you like, but the Rhino polymer particles are round and create a consistent finish.

I applied the catalyzed, polymer additized paint using a 4" roller with 3/8" nap, laying a single heavy uniform coat over the masked off areas. We let it cure overnight, then peeled the tape off. The surface is shiny, yet has high friction wet or dry.

If you have additional questions, please let me know.

[seasailor55]

I've attached some photos of the deck masked off before the painting of the non-skid.

[seasailor55]

Continuing the restoration of CD22 # 161, with teak re-installed and refinished, along with some of the bronze deck hardware. The teak was stripped, sanded, and finished with Penetrol, which produces a transparent, slightly flat finish that lets the grain show through, yet is easy to maintain, and doesn't build up and crack or peel like varnish over time.

[seasailor55]

Continuing our restoration of Cape Dory 22 # 161, we scheduled two Saturdays to finish installing deck hardware. The stainless bow pulpit was drilled for the bow light wiring to pass through the port rear rail, and a matching hole drilled in the deck prior to setting with 3M 4000 sealant and stainless bolts.

The bronze anodized toe/rub rails were dry fitted, trimmed and installed using 3M 4000 and stainless screws. The originals were teak, but they were unsalvagable according to the donor of the boat, who purchased and supplied these. We then installed the stainless lifeline stanchions and ran the lifelines.

photo.JPGCapeDory3.JPG (40.74 KiB) Viewed 1460 times

[Gary H]

Beautiful Work!
This parallels my work on a 22d this past year and a half. I have been through just about everything you have except I am not painting the gelcoat and I have new teak rails. Rebuild of the inboard diesel and replacement of the prop shaft and cutlass bearing almost make up for the lack of hull painting. I hesitate to use the word "restore" - but, like you, everything has been reinstalled. They are beautiful boats. Mine will be done some time next summer.
Gary

[seasailor55]

Wow. Beautiful boat. I like the color scheme. I've been thinking about the bottom/boot stripe colors and leaning toward the red boot stripe/blue bottom. Your boat certainly reinforces my inclinations. I like the teak rails and wish our boat had them, but they were apparently demolished during the same incident that scarred up the port side gelcoat, hence the need to repaint the boat. The nice thing about a 22D is no outboard or bracket to clutter up the stern. Great job on the boat. Keep up the good work!

[seasailor55]

Another photo of CD22 # 161 with toe rails, bow pulpit, and lifelines installed and waterline masked off. Cabin eyebrows and outboard bracket will be next, along with Cobalt Blue boot stripe, gold cove stripe, registration numbers and medium blue anti-fouling paint.

[seasailor55]

Continuing the restoration of CD 22 # 161

Repaired the cabin sole, replacing and regluing some of the holly strips. Applied two coats of satin finish polyurethane to interior woodwork. Installed new battery and depth finder and checked out the electrical system (so far, everything still works). Installed outboard mount. Marked off waterline and boot stripe using a laser level, then masked it off and applied 2 coats of PPG 2 part aliphatic polyurethane in Navy Blue with a foam roller, sanding between coats.

Next up: PPG Light Blue bottom paint, and a medium blue cove stripe, registration numbers and name lettering, wiring the mast lights, modifying the trailer slightly for easier launching, and replacing the water pump on the outboard.

[seasailor55]

CD22 # 161 Finished, launched, and sailing!

[seasailor55]

More photos of CD22 # 161
We named her ADVENTURER in honor of the Venture Crew scouts that raised the money for the restoration.