My recently purchased Ty has cockpit locker covers that are loose (not hinged) and so flimsy they feel as if they'd crack if stepped on by an adult. Then I saw a photo of another Typhoon with what look like larger, sturdier covers with hinges. Were both produced by the factory?
Can anyone offer suggestions (experience) with reinforcing these covers, as well as the companionway hatch?
Thanks in advance.
Typhoon Cockpit Locker Covers
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Re: Typhoon Cockpit Locker Covers
Check the archives. There should be several posts on fixes. And, yes, sometime between 1974 and 1984 they changed the configuration of the cockpit hatches. The later ones have much better structure and water drainage, but the early ones are definitely fixable.
Serge
serge@srtrop.com
Serge
serge@srtrop.com
Re: Typhoon Cockpit Locker Covers
Don,
Regards,
Richard.
Yes, I reinforced my cockpit locker covers quite successfully with glass mat and epoxy. I roughed up the underside, layed down a layer of mat, then five strips of wood (1" by 1/4") across the width of the cover, then two more layers of mat, well wetted to encapsulate the wood strips. Now there is no creaking or flexing when I stand (or even jump) on the covers.Don Craig wrote: Can anyone offer suggestions (experience) with reinforcing these covers
Regards,
Richard.
Re: Typhoon Cockpit Locker Covers
my '76 has loose lids so it was after '76. you might also want to consider installing tethers on the lids. secure to the undersides of the cockpit seats so they don't get away from you for any of many possible reasons!
Don Craig wrote: My recently purchased Ty has cockpit locker covers that are loose (not hinged) and so flimsy they feel as if they'd crack if stepped on by an adult. Then I saw a photo of another Typhoon with what look like larger, sturdier covers with hinges. Were both produced by the factory?
Can anyone offer suggestions (experience) with reinforcing these covers, as well as the companionway hatch?
Thanks in advance.
Re: Typhoon Cockpit Locker Covers
Don;
A suggestion: buy two pairs of cabinet hinges which have a short leaf (about 3/4" wide) and a longer leaf (about 2" wide) and hinge the loose cockpit covers to the cockpit seat with #8 or #10 flathead machine screws. To secure them closed, make a pair of simple turnbuttons from teak and fasten with ovalhead sheetmetal screws, about 4" from each edge (hinges also). Everything is stainless, of course. I found these hinges at Jamestown Distributors, Rhode Island - they're about 0.050" thick. You may have to trim the lower rear edge on a table saw to accomodate the rotation of the lid.
To stiffen up the lid, cut a piece of 1/2" plywood and fasten it to the underside of the lid with latex caulk and screws at each corner. Use c-clamps or alot of weight to "glue" the plywood.
I've performed the above modifications to my Ty and life is smooth sailing!
As far as the companionway hatch goes, I agree that it is a bit wimpy, but i've put all my weight on it quite regularly with no bad result. Idea: described in "The Sailor's Sketchbook" by Bruce Bingham is a method for covering the hatch with strips of teak bedded in epoxy, primarily for a 'yachty look', this would also strenghten it up quite a bit.
Good luck,
Bob Bernier
rbernier@alsic.com
A suggestion: buy two pairs of cabinet hinges which have a short leaf (about 3/4" wide) and a longer leaf (about 2" wide) and hinge the loose cockpit covers to the cockpit seat with #8 or #10 flathead machine screws. To secure them closed, make a pair of simple turnbuttons from teak and fasten with ovalhead sheetmetal screws, about 4" from each edge (hinges also). Everything is stainless, of course. I found these hinges at Jamestown Distributors, Rhode Island - they're about 0.050" thick. You may have to trim the lower rear edge on a table saw to accomodate the rotation of the lid.
To stiffen up the lid, cut a piece of 1/2" plywood and fasten it to the underside of the lid with latex caulk and screws at each corner. Use c-clamps or alot of weight to "glue" the plywood.
I've performed the above modifications to my Ty and life is smooth sailing!
As far as the companionway hatch goes, I agree that it is a bit wimpy, but i've put all my weight on it quite regularly with no bad result. Idea: described in "The Sailor's Sketchbook" by Bruce Bingham is a method for covering the hatch with strips of teak bedded in epoxy, primarily for a 'yachty look', this would also strenghten it up quite a bit.
Good luck,
Bob Bernier
rbernier@alsic.com
Thanks all respondents for great suggestions. NM
NM
Bob Bernier wrote: Don;
A suggestion: buy two pairs of cabinet hinges which have a short leaf (about 3/4" wide) and a longer leaf (about 2" wide) and hinge the loose cockpit covers to the cockpit seat with #8 or #10 flathead machine screws. To secure them closed, make a pair of simple turnbuttons from teak and fasten with ovalhead sheetmetal screws, about 4" from each edge (hinges also). Everything is stainless, of course. I found these hinges at Jamestown Distributors, Rhode Island - they're about 0.050" thick. You may have to trim the lower rear edge on a table saw to accomodate the rotation of the lid.
To stiffen up the lid, cut a piece of 1/2" plywood and fasten it to the underside of the lid with latex caulk and screws at each corner. Use c-clamps or alot of weight to "glue" the plywood.
I've performed the above modifications to my Ty and life is smooth sailing!
As far as the companionway hatch goes, I agree that it is a bit wimpy, but i've put all my weight on it quite regularly with no bad result. Idea: described in "The Sailor's Sketchbook" by Bruce Bingham is a method for covering the hatch with strips of teak bedded in epoxy, primarily for a 'yachty look', this would also strenghten it up quite a bit.
Good luck,
Bob Bernier