CD27 "repower"

[Shinok]

I put repower in quotes because technically the last owner decided to remove the engine, prop shaft, and everything that went with it. We've been using an outboard, but the time has to come to start evaluating what our next steps are going to be and how much it's going to cost. We want to start coastal cruising, but the outboard kindof limits our possibilities.

So first question applies no matter what powerplant we choose, we have the prop but need to replace the prop shaft. I've seen a few on CL, but most of the new ones I've seen are stainless, not bronze. I'd like to keep it as close to original as possible, but realize a bronze prop shaft may be hard to find these days. Also, anyone know the length off hand or where I can find it? I have the diameter.

For the motor itself, we started with the idea of going electric, but was talked out of it by a number of people. With that in mind, I'm debating between trying to find a YSB8 like it originally came with or looking for a 2GM. Does the YSB8 function well or would I be better with something larger? Does it really make that much noise and vibration compared to the YSB8? We don't mind spending a few extra $$ while we already don't have a diesel to get something more ideal, but I don't wanna go overboard.

As always, thanks!

[tjr818]

On Sláinte, our 1981 CD27 the shaft is SS. I do not know if that is original or not. Our YSM8 is okay for our usual daysailing on the Mississippi river where the current can be 3 kts or so, but there is no wave action to deal with. We can hear each other talk with out a problem, no shouting required, but any music would not be truly appreciated while motoring. I would love to do the Great Loop, but I don't think I want to do it with the YSM8. In regards to the YSM8 our surveyor said; "the good news is that the YSM8 will last forever. The bad news is that the YSM8 will last forever" I think later 27's came with a 13 HP 2 cylinder Yanmar that is supposed to be a better match for the 27. I would love to go electric if I could find the boat dollars to make the switch.
Best of Luck,

[Andy Denmark]

Let me suggest that you include Betamarine in your list of engine candidates.

I've repowered with a Betamarine 14 as have several others in this area. This engine replaced the Westerbeke 13 that was factory original equipment. 14 h.p is just about right for both the 27 and 28. I've just returned from a southerly trek down the ICW (roughly 650 miles, round trip) that was the first significant test of the new engine installation and found it to be an excellent performer -- much quieter, smoother, more efficient (slightly less than 1/3 gal/hr at cruising rpm) and easy access to all service points.

At 80% of WOT we cruised at just over 6 mph in flat water and never saw less than 3.9 against current and/or waves. WOT achieved just over 7 mph over the bottom. Headed down the 20+ mile stretch Cape Fear River with a following tide we sometimes exceeded 9 mph over the bottom. Against the same current we could generally hold somewhere around 4 mph, worst case. Note that these calibrations are in miles-per-hour and not knots because the ICW measures distances in statute rather than nautical miles so STD calculations are easier when everything is in the same system.

One thing that Beta does to help with repowering is to keep data regarding replacement details for specific engines insofar as mounting issues are concerned. If they have replaced an engine with one of theirs then that data, and often hardware, is available to facilitate the process. Stanley at the Betamarine USA distributorship can answer any of these questions. I've found them to be an excellent source of good information relative to the repowering process.

Hope this helps ...

[Jim Walsh]

Having suffered with a YSB8 back in the seventies which was seriously underpowered in the Erickson 29 I sailed at that time I repowered with a 13 horse Westerbeke. The change was dramatic. My advice is to go with whatever will fit in the space provided. I would also recommend you go with the highest horsepower rating as opposed to that which is minimally sufficient.

[Shinok]

Thanks for the advice folks, I appreciate it. I'm not sure what we're gonna do, but the outboard we're using isn't cutting it, that's for sure. I'd like to do something sooner rather than later, but the fact everything (seacock, stuff box, prop shaft, etc) was removed makes it a bit more challenging of a task. We are hauling the boat soon to do the bottom, I'd like to get everything put in place for the motor when we do.

I was wondering if anyone knows the dimensions of the prop shaft? Also, which model stuffing box was used?

[Steve Laume]

It seems like you are trying to figure out what what tires you need before you knowing which car you are buying.

The prop and shaft length will vary, depending on which engine you chose. Once you have decided on an engine and transmission you will be able to determine what size prop you will need and the correct shaft length.

Those Beta engines are very nice. Not only are they quiet and easy to service but they are smaller than the older engines of the same horse power.

Our boats used Spartan stuffing boxes. If you are replacing everything you might consider a dripless shaft seal, Steve.

[Ron M.]

It appears you are ' starting from scratch ' for your boats propulsion needs.
I wouldn't consider installing an antique diesel,(ysm8) unless you're looking for an underpowered, loud, vibrating and heavy hunk of cast iron.
There a several makers of efficient, powerful, quiet, lightweight diesels to choose from.
I re-powered 5 years ago with a volvo d-120, all new drivetrain, dripless shaftseal, etc. HUGE IMPROVEMENT over the original ysb12.
It cost a few bucks and took me a week to switch out, but looking back it was worth the time and expense.

[Shinok]

Yea, we are starting from scratch. The PO removed the diesel and fiberglassed over the thru hulls and prop shaft. In a way it's not a bad thing because we have a blank slate to work with, but on the other hand it's a pain because everything has to be reinstalled. We bought the boat knowing that.

To be frank, part of my holdup with dropping $8k+ on a newer diesel is because I'm not sure that what we put into it will reflect back into the value of the boat. I'm also not entirely sure how we will end up using the boat, but not having an inboard is limiting us pretty significantly, to the point that just having something in place is better than what we have now. That said, I want to do it right and if that means waiting a while, so be it. The real problem is that we have more limited options in where we can sail until we get an inboard.

Haul out day is coming soon, we have plenty of other tasks to attend to. I might just wait until next fall to mess with it and give us some time to focus on other areas that need work.

[gvanbell]

Hey there.

We replaced the YSM8 in our 27 with the Betamarine 14 (as have many on this board). The difference is stunning, and the efficiency and peace of mind you get from the new install is worth it.

A few things of note: Any engine install is going to cost more than anyone will tell you. Installing thru hulls, acquiring a shaft and a prop, installing proper fuel storage and filtration, exhaust hose, fuel hose, water hose, muffler...

You can get a brand new Beta 14 for less than $7,000. You can easily spend another $7,000 putting it in.

And no, you won't get that money back out of it. You are investing in your own motoring pleasure.

-g

[paulk]

Shaft on my 79 CD27 is bronze, 1". YSM8 is still running, but is under powered and I am considering to re-power. 10 kW electric is a strong contender. I know, I know. But I like quiet... Otherwise I will go with Beta 14.

[gvanbell]

After talking with some folks at the recent boat show in Seattle I'm sort of wishing I had gone with the electric engine on our 27. In reality we seldom need the engine for long hauls, and the vast majority of the engine use is in and out of the marina. Definitely something to consider.

That said, I love our Beta 14.

-g

[tjr818]

I would love to go electric. We sail on the Mississippi River above Saint Louis. All we use our motor for is to get in and out of the harbor. We only need it for a few minutes each sail, but because it is a diesel we feel have to "run" it every time to be sure it gets warmed up. I would sure think Electric would be cheaper than a new diesel.

[Bill Goldsmith]

To be frank, part of my holdup with dropping $8k+ on a newer diesel is because I'm not sure that what we put into it will reflect back into the value of the boat.

I think this is a valid concern. You often see ads for boats saying "recent $50,000" refit on a boat selling for ~$50,000, and similar situations. Seems to me that a new diesel is a good, realistic option if you are planning to keep the boat a long time, then it's for enjoyment, not pure monetary value. In the short term the cost of a new diesel is not likely to be fully reflected in a negotiated price, but it may well make your boat MUCH more attractive to buyers and hence sell more quickly than a similar condition boat with an old engine. DIY is a good way to make the economics work better, if an owner is skilled and has the time. A DIY engine refit will cost fewer dollars out of pocket, and may well be done better than a yard under pressure to keep the cost down. But the hours will add up.

[Shinok]

Sorry for the bump, I've been looking into this a bit more and was curious about the engine bed.

For those of you that repowered with different engines, did you have to rebuild the engine bed? How did you get the engine through the companionway and into the engine compartment?

DIY is a good way to make the economics work better, if an owner is skilled and has the time. A DIY engine refit will cost fewer dollars out of pocket, and may well be done better than a yard under pressure to keep the cost down. But the hours will add up.

That is our plan, with as much as we can do ourselves. I like to do it that way when I can, but when it comes to stuff that requires specialty expertise, I prefer to hire people rather than risk breaking something.

Right now, we need -EVERYTHING- put in, but some of it I can do myself or with the help of a friend (seacocks, tank, some plumbing, panel install, etc). It's the stuff like the engine bed, alignment, installation of all the final parts, that I'm not too sure I know enough to do.

I would love to go electric. We sail on the Mississippi River above Saint Louis. All we use our motor for is to get in and out of the harbor. We only need it for a few minutes each sail, but because it is a diesel we feel have to "run" it every time to be sure it gets warmed up. I would sure think Electric would be cheaper than a new diesel.

With the electric stuff, I am awfully tempted because I can reduce the amount of installation required and number of holes in the hull, it's also cheaper than a new diesel.

I just worry about how well it'll work, most folks I talk to seem to indicate the technology isn't "there yet", but is getting close. I'm not a big fan of being an early adopter of technology, so I'm hesitant. I want to like the idea, I just haven't been sold on it yet.

I also wonder what recharging the batteries looks like. I know with some of them, sailing with the motor engaged will charge the batteries, but I'd imagine you would want other sources as well (shore power, solar, wind generator, gas generator).

[Brian2]

I'll have a Universal M-18 2 cynlinder (from our 1987 CD 28) for sale shortly if you are interested in checking it out. We are repowering with a Beta 14.

I can send original spec sheets.

Brian