All Shield product report or question.

[Tom]

At the beginning of the summer I found a product I think on this board, bought some and gave it a try. It's called All Shield and is something you put on your stainless and other metals and it's supposed to keep them from corroding for 5 years. I followed the instructions and put on three coats. After three months my stainless looks the worst it ever has. Has someone else used this stuff and got good results? Is there some trick about applying it or something? I did a test and used it on one side and not on the other. The side that it wasn't used on has much less rust than the side it was used on. In my test this product actually promoted rust spots faster than leaving the stainless untreated except for polish. The one place it has worked well is on the brass plate over the companionway that says Cape Dory and has the boat number on it. Of course, that's semi-inside being under the dodger and covered when the hatch is closed. Why would they even try to market a product that works worse than nothing? Am I missing something here?



TomCambria@mindspring.com

[Ryan Turner]

Don't know about the All Shield but I do know that the plate is actually plastic, not brass. Guess we now know that the stuff works well on plastic.



rturnertec@aol.com

[Larry DeMers]

You are suffering from the fabled "Crevice Corrosion", common to stainless steel that is deprived of oxygen at it's surface.

What happens is that Stainless Steel forms a thin protective layer of oxide over the surface, during the manufacturing process called "pickling". This oxide needs oxygen to stay active. Without it, tiny pits in the surface of the stainless will begin weeping rust, allowing it to spread to neighboring areas. The pickling process involves Nitric Acid baths, which begin the oxidation. Incidently, this very process is now illegal in this country due to the environmental dangers it represents, so ***any***stainless steel bought now is not pickled, and will rust unless you do the pickling yourself. There are alternative sources for the acid wash that starts the process, and strong acidic acid has been reported to give fair to good results.

So, back to your story. When you polish the stainless, especially with the product you tried (apparently), the oxide is removed, partially or totally, depending on your application. This then removes the protection of the surface, and you get the rusting spots. THe answer is to remove that product from the boat..and the stainless before it does damage to the stainless. Buy some muriatic acid at the hardware store, and carefully apply it to a single rusted area for test purposes. Watch and see what happens there. It may restart the oxidation process which will protect your stainless. If not, then I would start hunting for experts, as you are faced with a real expensive problem..replacement of all the effected stainless.

Good luck..and please report back on the results.

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30

At the beginning of the summer I found a product I think on this board, bought some and gave it a try. It's called All Shield and is something you put on your stainless and other metals and it's supposed to keep them from corroding for 5 years. I followed the instructions and put on three coats. After three months my stainless looks the worst it ever has. Has someone else used this stuff and got good results? Is there some trick about applying it or something? I did a test and used it on one side and not on the other. The side that it wasn't used on has much less rust than the side it was used on. In my test this product actually promoted rust spots faster than leaving the stainless untreated except for polish. The one place it has worked well is on the brass plate over the companionway that says Cape Dory and has the boat number on it. Of course, that's semi-inside being under the dodger and covered when the hatch is closed. Why would they even try to market a product that works worse than nothing? Am I missing something here?

demers@sgi.com

[Catherine Monaghan]

Cape Dory had both bronze and plastic hull# plaques made for the various Cape Dories. Our CD32 sports a genuine bronze plaque. We've been asked to let Bristol Bronze cast a new one from our plaque but I've been reluctant to remove it from the boat. I guess if enough Cape Dorians would like to replace their plastic plaque with a bronze one, I'll send it to them to be cast. Cape Dorians could then place their orders for new ones from Bristol Bronze.


catherine_monaghan@merck.com
CD32 <a href="http://www.hometown.aol.com/bcomet/real ... ization</a>, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay

Don't know about the All Shield but I do know that the plate is actually plastic, not brass. Guess we now know that the stuff works well on plastic.

catherine_monaghan@merck.com

[Ken Coit]

I'd go for that. Parfait seems to have left hers behind somewhere, along with the half-hull model.

Ken

Cape Dory had both bronze and plastic hull# plaques made for the various Cape Dories. Our CD32 sports a genuine bronze plaque. We've been asked to let Bristol Bronze cast a new one from our plaque but I've been reluctant to remove it from the boat. I guess if enough Cape Dorians would like to replace their plastic plaque with a bronze one, I'll send it to them to be cast. Cape Dorians could then place their orders for new ones from Bristol Bronze.


catherine_monaghan@merck.com
CD32 <a href="http://www.hometown.aol.com/bcomet/real ... ization</a>, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay

Don't know about the All Shield but I do know that the plate is actually plastic, not brass. Guess we now know that the stuff works well on plastic.

parfait@nc.rr.com

[Larry DeMers]

Catherine,

We realized that ours was plastic when I was doing some polishing of the bronze, and tried to give the plaque a shine..heh, well, that bronze came right off! So, one day I got some gold leaf at the hobby store, and spent time applying gold leaf on the raised areas. Looked nice, and was not too hard to do. However, I sure would like to put a proper bronze plaque up there, so count me in please. The plastic one will look nice at work..

Thanks,

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
CD30

Cape Dory had both bronze and plastic hull# plaques made for the various Cape Dories. Our CD32 sports a genuine bronze plaque. We've been asked to let Bristol Bronze cast a new one from our plaque but I've been reluctant to remove it from the boat. I guess if enough Cape Dorians would like to replace their plastic plaque with a bronze one, I'll send it to them to be cast. Cape Dorians could then place their orders for new ones from Bristol Bronze.


catherine_monaghan@merck.com
CD32 <a href="http://www.hometown.aol.com/bcomet/real ... ization</a>, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay

Don't know about the All Shield but I do know that the plate is actually plastic, not brass. Guess we now know that the stuff works well on plastic.

demers@sgi.com

[John]

Cape Dory had both bronze and plastic hull# plaques made for the various Cape Dories. Our CD32 sports a genuine bronze plaque. We've been asked to let Bristol Bronze cast a new one from our plaque but I've been reluctant to remove it from the boat. I guess if enough Cape Dorians would like to replace their plastic plaque with a bronze one, I'll send it to them to be cast. Cape Dorians could then place their orders for new ones from Bristol Bronze.

Why Bristol? Wouldn't it be more appropriate to ask Spartan to cast them being that they were probably the original source for them in the first place?

[Bob Luby]

I'm another plastic plater hoping to "go bronze", FWIW.

Bristol Bronze requires a bronze plate because a plastic plate won't survive the "lost wax" model molding process.

If someone could come up with the appropriate soft thermosetting resin, that might do the trick. ( Suspend plastic plate in resin - heat to say 100c - to set resin. Cut the plate loose - reassemble set resin to create mold for wax.)

Is there a chemist in the house?



Rluby@aol.com

[Lou Ostendorff]

Hi Cathy;
They probably want to make a 'sand casting', as opposed to 'lost wax' casting; in lost wax, the 'prototype' usually made of a hard wax or soft plastic, is destroyed in the moldmaking process; I'd bet since they're intending to cast bronze, that it will be a 'green sand' mold, which would not damage the prototype; many forms of various materials can serve duty to create a green sand mold, even wood; and some of these old wooden patterns are still around, and have become collector's items.
Lou Ostendorff
"KARMA"
CD25D



louosten@ipass.net

[Chris Cram]

Why they ever used plastic on anotherwise classy yacht has always amazed me. You can count "Hesperus" in on the list of bronze plater wannabees.
Chris
CD 30 C #242

p.s. On my 25D I took Glossy Metallic model paint, spread it on paper then simply pressed the plate down on that. It came out great. Trick use a thin but even layer of paint.



cccobx@prodigy.net

[Bill Goldsmith]

Count me in as well. The hull number has chipped off my plastic plaque--it would sure dress up the boat to have a bronze one!!

Bill

Cape Dory had both bronze and plastic hull# plaques made for the various Cape Dories. Our CD32 sports a genuine bronze plaque. We've been asked to let Bristol Bronze cast a new one from our plaque but I've been reluctant to remove it from the boat. I guess if enough Cape Dorians would like to replace their plastic plaque with a bronze one, I'll send it to them to be cast. Cape Dorians could then place their orders for new ones from Bristol Bronze.


catherine_monaghan@merck.com
CD32 <a href="http://www.hometown.aol.com/bcomet/real ... ization</a>, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay

Don't know about the All Shield but I do know that the plate is actually plastic, not brass. Guess we now know that the stuff works well on plastic.

goldy@bestweb.net

[Ben Thomas]

Cape Dory had both bronze and plastic hull# plaques made for the various Cape Dories. Our CD32 sports a genuine bronze plaque. We've been asked to let Bristol Bronze cast a new one from our plaque but I've been reluctant to remove it from the boat. I guess if enough Cape Dorians would like to replace their plastic plaque with a bronze one, I'll send it to them to be cast. Cape Dorians could then place their orders for new ones from Bristol Bronze.


catherine_monaghan@merck.com
CD32 <a href="http://www.hometown.aol.com/bcomet/real ... ization</a>, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay

Don't know about the All Shield but I do know that the plate is actually plastic, not brass. Guess we now know that the stuff works well on plastic.

Catherine, I too will jump on board and cast off with the bronze... no puns really.. I've got 82 cd30 #248 "Milagro" What do we do with the hull numbers since everyones different? will they take the mold using your plate and your hull number, then redo mold so hull number space is blank and we can stamp our own numbers in. regardless count me in. Ben Thomas ps. a thought passed through the other day when out with the gennaker up in 10 knots of wind and seeing other boats with burgees up and flying . would be nice to see burgee of the cape dory just like the Bronze plate, no localized group affiliation just the cape dorys, no offense anyone I love this and the other boards re cape dorys. a non-denominational burgee so to speak,



btlandscapers@imagina.com

[Rich]

I feel lucky, mine's metal. Does anyone know what delineated plastic/metal? I've got an 86 CD26. Just curious.



Rpassmore42@hotmail.com

[Linda Swiatocha]

Please add me to the bronze plaque buyers list.
Thank you!
Linda Swiatocha
CD25 "Needful Thing"



oh2wander@aol.com

[Vern Campbell]

Count me in as one of the I-want-a-bronze-plate group.

Vern Campbell
CD25 "Teacher's Pet"

Cape Dory had both bronze and plastic hull# plaques made for the various Cape Dories. Our CD32 sports a genuine bronze plaque. We've been asked to let Bristol Bronze cast a new one from our plaque but I've been reluctant to remove it from the boat. I guess if enough Cape Dorians would like to replace their plastic plaque with a bronze one, I'll send it to them to be cast. Cape Dorians could then place their orders for new ones from Bristol Bronze.


catherine_monaghan@merck.com
CD32 <a href="http://www.hometown.aol.com/bcomet/real ... ization</a>, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay

Don't know about the All Shield but I do know that the plate is actually plastic, not brass. Guess we now know that the stuff works well on plastic.

sailingteacherspet@hotmail.com