CD 22 reefing hooks

[josephlongAZ]

I'd like some information on where I would locate reefing hooks that match or are closer to the original on a CD 22.

To date, I have found reefing hooks that are too large. Also, what I have found attach perpendicular to the original.

Thank you.

Joe Long
'Elli'

[Steve Laume]

Raven does not use a reefing hook. Instead, there is a pad eye on the port side and a line that runs up through the sail cringle and back down to a cleat on the starboard side. This gives you a slight mechanical advantage when pulling down the tack. There is no problem with trying to hook the cringle or the possibility of tearing the sail.

To improve a bit on this system, you could mount cleats on both sides of the mast, enabling you to take the reef on either side of the mast. I am setting Raven up with cheek blocks on both sides of the boom so I can also pull the clew down on both sides. This will help a lot when you are on the wrong tack and do not want to reef from the lee side.

I looked at reefing hooks when I first got Raven but am now very happy with the line for the tack, Steve.

[josephlongAZ]

Thank you; great idea. I like the simplicity and function of it. I have been concerned about tearing the sail and your idea will certainly mitigate it.

Thank you again,

Joe Long
'Elli'

[trapper]

My CD22 reefed by rolling the main on the boom.

[Steve Laume]

Thank you; great idea. I like the simplicity and function of it. I have been concerned about tearing the sail and your idea will certainly mitigate it.

Thank you again,

Joe Long
'Elli'

Thank you, but it is not my idea. That is the way Raven was always set up as far as I can tell, Steve.

[josephlongAZ]

Oh well, thank you for sharing the idea. You garnered credit for that part.

I'm going to look into it when I get to the boat next week. I have a cleat on the starboard side already that's in use for the topping lift.

I've been cautious when attaching the reefing hooks; thinking about the possibility of stabbing a hole or tear in the sail. I like the concept of your set up and it also seems quicker.

Sincerely,

Joe Long
'Elli'

[Neil Gordon]

Raven does not use a reefing hook. Instead, there is a pad eye on the port side and a line that runs up through the sail cringle and back down to a cleat on the starboard side. This gives you a slight mechanical advantage when pulling down the tack. There is no problem with trying to hook the cringle or the possibility of tearing the sail.

I have the same system, i.e., a line that runs up to the cringle and back down to a cleat on the mast, below the level of the boom. I've used it for 15 years... I suspect it takes about the same time to secure as would a hook.

[josephlongAZ]

Hmmm. Any pictures of what that looks like? I don't want to 're-invent the wheel' so to speak. Are there CD drawing details for instance?

Thank you

Joe long
'Elli'

[Steve Laume]

You could just add a cleat on each side of the mast maybe a foot below the goose neck. I have a pad eye on one side but may change it to a cleat. Get a piece of line and cleat it off on one side, run it through the cringle and down to the cleat on the other side. The line I have is long enough that when I pull down the first reef there is enough to send the bitter end back through the second reef. This is where a cleat on the other side would be nice. I suppose you could have a second line run up to take the next reef but there would be a lot of lose line when you took the first reef in.

I don't think placement of the cleats or pad eye is that critical. Just look for an angle that will pull the tack in towards the goose neck.

I think this is faster and definitely easier than trying to hook a cringle when things might be bouncing around a bit, Steve.

[josephlongAZ]

Got it. I will be able to visualize it much better when I get the boat. Thank you very much . . .


Joe Long
'Elli'