Typhoon construction question

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Herb Stokes
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Joined: May 23rd, '07, 21:57

Typhoon construction question

Post by Herb Stokes »

I've just gotten started on a restoration project of typhoon # 840. But I've run into something about the construction of these boats that I have a question about. The foredeck core is completely rotted away. I think I can deal with that. There was a vent installed through the foredeck. Looking through this 4" hole you can see the space where the core should be. There is also a space between the layer of glass that would be beneath the core material, and the inner liner. Was there another layer of balsa or plywood in this space that has also rotted away? The gap is about about 1/4" or less. I sure hope this makes sense. I appreciate anyone's input......
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jbenagh
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Location: CD30 "Christine C"
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Re: Typhoon construction question

Post by jbenagh »

I don't think there was anything between the liner and the hull or deck layup. There may have been some expanding foam used in a few places to hold writing in place.

Jeff
Dick Villamil
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Joined: Feb 6th, '05, 16:42
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Re: Typhoon construction question

Post by Dick Villamil »

I agree - while restoring my '76 Ty weekender I had some wet core where the factory failed to caulk under fittings or where the po failed to seal the balsa when installing a vent on the foredeck. The liner is separate and fits like a glove withour core or even foam - perhaps a few dabs of caulk to hold it in place. In my opinion if any throughbolts pass through the deck and the liner, it is important to seal the core in the deck with epoxy or paint before installing the fitting. then add some caulking between the liner and underside of the deck to prevent water from wicking into the screw holes.
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mashenden
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Location: "Nautica" CD-36 #84, Ty-K #83, & CD-10 #1539 in Urbanna, VA. 4 other Tys in past
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Re: Typhoon construction question

Post by mashenden »

Dick Villamil wrote:... In my opinion if any throughbolts pass through the deck and the liner, it is important to seal the core in the deck with epoxy or paint before installing the fitting. Then add some caulking between the liner and underside of the deck to prevent water from wicking into the screw holes.
Agreed.

More details on a foolproof approach is to remove the hardware, drill all of the old holes out to 1/2" trying to not drill through the lower fiberglass layer, then tape the the hole and fill with epoxy. The tape should stop the epoxy from leaking out before it sets, which is a bit tricky when there is a liner involved as well. Maybe a bit of tape put inside the 1/2" hole from the topside?? Anyhow, once the epoxy sets, drill the holes for the hardware through the center of the epoxy filled holes.

Given the new holes are smaller than the larger epoxy filled holes, the next time any sealant fails around the hardware, then the water gets to epoxy, not the balsa. If everyone used this approach (and filled the 6" gap w epoxy as well) when installing vents then there would be many less boats out there with deck problems.
Matt Ashenden
- I used to like boating and fixing stuff, then I bought a couple of boats and now I just fix stuff :)

Oh, and please check out my webpage... http://VaRivah.com
Herb Stokes
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Joined: May 23rd, '07, 21:57

Re: Typhoon construction question

Post by Herb Stokes »

Thanks for the responses. I was concerned things were worse than they really are. I'm sure I'll be back with more questions as I get deeper into this.........
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