Cape Dory 22 New Traveller

[shavdog]

Spring 2012 Caper 003.JPG

[shavdog]

For 22 owners...this is the new traveller I bought from Garhauer over the winter..It cost me $175. My contact was Guido..I have him prebend it 1.5 inches which in the end was about perfect to the original contour of the mounting spot. I left the original trim piece on..the old one came off easy and was not prebent. The material was flimsy. The new one mounts with a total of 8 three inch stainless bolts and 3 three inch stainless screws. I used sika 291 for bonding. I used marinetex to plug up the old holes..for an anal accountant, I was very satisfied with the outcome and ease of install..craig

[MikeD]

Very nice installation!

On another note, I notice you've got what looks to be a Typhoon type engine mount on your aft hatch. If that's what it is, how does that work on your CD22? And what size outboard do you use? Great solution to the permanent mount off the stern.

[shavdog]

I have alittle bit of a unique situation...I am lucky to live on an inland lake and keep my 22 on a mooring ball in front of our house.. I like the clean look and don't have much of a need for an outboard. I have a small dingy on our dock and row over to the boat, tie up the dingy and go sailing(without a motor)...when I need the motor to put in and take out or for other reasons I use a typhoon mount with a longer mounting board to mount my 1975 evinrude 4hp that weighs 38 pounds...If I needed something really dependable I would go alittle bigger and alot newer..it works for me...thanks for the look..craig

[shavdog]

I forgot to mention the overall length of my traveller endcap to endcap is 44 inches. If you want a longer one you could remove the top smaller trim piece and mount it to the lower wider trim piece and end up with a 50 inch traveller. Also, I had to remove the handle on my hatch door for clearance purposes...

[Gary H]

Very nice looking boat. My traveller is pretty much the same setup. I notice a couple of interesting items on your 22 -
-It appears that you have a split backstay. Is that original?
-Your toerails look higher than the originals, which i like. Did you replace them?

[shavdog]

Good catch...a previous owner split the backstay..good for me to allow for center motor mount and flag mount..don't know about the toerails...this 22 has been fresh water its entire life.....over on the eyecandy site i did post a shot of the inside of this 30 yr old boat...

[Bill Moore]

Craig,

I'm jealous--I have considered doing exactly this. I'm curious about the piece of trim where the traveller is mounted. In your photo the trim piece looks much deeper than mine (which I just measured at 1 1/4" across the top). The description implies this piece was already there and you kept it, but I was not sure if that was the case. Was it new or existing?

Thanks,
Bill

[tjr818]

Craig,
That really looks nice. Which model traveler is that? The lease expensive one I can find on their website is the MT-3 and it lists for $250. I would like something like yours for my CD27. I don;t want to lose all the travel with the double car and the 4:1 purchase. I have been getting along with the original 1:1 system, I sure think I can work the 2:1 as long as it is strong enough for the CD27 mainsail.

[Gary H]

It is hard to tell from the photo but the teak trim under the traveller does not look bevelled. The trim on my 22D, as some others I have seen, is bevelled. Mine bevels towards the cockpit; however, some photos I have seen appear to have the bevel towards stern - which makes me wonder what the purpose of the bevel is. (My Typhoon has a traveller directly mounted to the deck with no bevel which works fine.)
A bevel towards the cockpit might provide a better angle toward the boom while a bevel towards the stern might elevate the traveller and end controls so that the clear the rear cockpit coaming. Thoughts?

[shavdog]

Bill....I did not change any of the teak trim pieces where the new traveller mounts...on my 22 there are two pieces of trim...the lower one that attaches to the boat is about 3inches wide by 1/2 inch thick(I can get the exact meaurements if you want)that piece of trim expands the entire width of that area(about 50inches)....the top trim piece is the one you are referring to which is 1 1/4 inches wide...I mounted my new traveller on top of both and the overall traveller width including endcaps is 44 inches...if you removed the top piece and mounted the traveller to the bottem wider piece you could get by with a 50 inch traveller...if you need exact measurements just ask..hope this makes sense..craig...I'll take a picture tomm from a different angle so you can see the trim back there...craig

[shavdog]

Tim...I misspoke...I just looked at my packing slip and I have a MT-3. it was $250 plus $21 shipping...the prebent was included in the price..sorry bout that..craig

[marka]

Tim,

I have an MT-3 on it's way from garhaur as i type this. it should arrive any day. i sent guido a template illustrating the deck camber, the location of the fasteners & the clearance to the coaming boards. i'll post an additional message to this string and let you know how it fits once i get it mounted.

[tjr818]

Thanks Craig & Mark,
I am looking forward to this conversion (even at the $250.00+).
Mark I have lots of questions. Did you have your old traveler off to get those measurements? or did you measure from below? Are you keeping the same teak riser? Are you taking the traveler track all the way to the combing? I was thinking of doing that and forgoing the end caps to get maximum travel distance.
I'd love to see pictures when you get the MT-3 installed.
Thanks again,

[marka]

Tim,

I took the old traveler track off and scribed the camber (top of teak trim piece) onto a piece of scrap plywood from above. I then cut the resulting curved line on a bandsaw and then marked the fastener locations as well as the traveler track ends. I took measurements to the inside of the coamings as well. Once the pattern was cut on the plywood, i traced it onto paper and with all dimensions marked and sent it off to the mail. It was very simple and if you don't have a bandsaw, a jig saw would have done the job as well.