Gorilla Glue vs. Epoxy

[Gary H]

I was all set to use Epoxy on the scarf joints on my new teak toe rails until I read an old post, which recently resurfaced, about Gorilla Glue. I am wondering now if Gorilla Glue is a better choice. Advice from others with experience with both would be helpful. Thanks.

[marka]

I've used both. I'd go with epoxy. It's very forgiving of less-than-perfect joinery. Be sure to wipe down the mating surfaces with acetone to remove the natural oil from the wood surface just before applying the epoxy. Also, if i were doing the job, I would locate the scarf joint on the "straightest" part of the sheer to minimize the stress on the joint.

one guy's opinion

[Markst95]

I tried Gorilla Glue for a teak repair and it did not stick. Epoxy repair is still strong after 3 years.

[okawbow]

I would also go with thickened epoxy for the scarf joint. However; the polyurethane gorilla glue works great for filling in a small, wet soft spot in the deck or cockpit. I recently repaired a small spot on my deck. I drilled several 1/4" holes through the top layer of fiberglass, that was covered with blue masking tape. I then shot gorrila glue into the holes. I had to experiment with the right amount to squirt into the holes. The glue quickly reacts with the moisture in the balsa core, and begins to foam out of the holes. The glue expands to 3 times it's volume, and fills the voids in the soft spot. When it is set; the tape can be pulled up, leaving the holes you drilled filled with foam. I used a large countersink to bevel the holes in the fiberglass, and then used epoxy filler to seal them. Worked great! The spot is solid now.

[Paul D.]

I would concur with those recommending epoxy. I have a teak cockpit grating I have repaired often with polyurethane (Gorilla) glue and have had better luck with the epoxy joints. It is very important to use the acetone to remove the oil or even give a light sanding and then wipe with acetone for oil removal.

My brother just made me a teak fairing block for a new depth transducer. (There is no flat section of an Alberg hull on which to mount these things simply! The epoxy joint is superb and he swears by sanding teak right before gluing. I will post a picture when I install it.

[Gary H]

Thank you, all, for the advice and comments. Epoxy, as I expected, it will be.

[Boyd]

Hi All:

I have had problems with epoxy not bonding to teak also and when exposed to heat (sun) it softens and loses bond. The real solution is the two part resorcinal glue. The only caveat is it is dark red and will leave a stain in places you dont want one if your not very careful. Its truly water proof and will stick to teak if you clean the joint well with acetone first. Larry Pardy agrees-he has a little article on his website about this.

Boyd
s/v CAT-A-TONIC
Prout 34 Esprit
Fort Lauderdale, Fl.