How to build a Typhoon trailer

[casampson]

If anyone has dimensions for a float-off trailer that would fit a Typhoon, I'd love to know them. I'm in the process of buying a Cape Cod Shipbuilding Goldeneye that has no trailer. The boat is inexpensive, and I can launch without a trailer for about $200 as long as I step the mast myself, but I'd really love to have a trailer. I found a beautiful Triad trailer for a Typhoon on the buy/sell website, but missed out -- someone beat me to it. But the good news is that I realized that the Goldeneye and the Typhoon have almost exactly the same hull dimensions, so I should be able to use a Typhoon trailer as a pattern. (There aren't many Goldeneyes around.)

This discussion has probably taken place before, so if you could steer me in the right direction, I'd appreciate it. If you know of a good trailer for sale at a good price, even better.

Thanks for your help.

Chris

[Dick Villamil]

I bought a new trailer then modified it for float-off for my Typhoom. I fabricated steel tangs to raise the bunks the needed height - using oval holes so I could adjust the bunks once the boat was on the trailer. I also modified the winch support by raising/lowering and by drilling a series of holes for a bolt to keep the winch at the correct position. I and a friend also made custom bunk shapes so that the bunks actually conform to the hull by using wedges at the end of each bunk then using a board that was attached to the bunk in the center - creating a curve exactly like the hull. This was all covered with indoor outdoor carpet. It looks great and works fine. I also made a keel guide out of aluminum bar stock that was bolted to the board and used PVC to cover it. I used for the keel support. I made the keel guide out of a piece of I beam that was fitted with the pressure treated 2 x 6. I need water that is 40" deep to launch and recover the boat. I should get a tongue extender - and I highly recommend it. As for the mast - I made wooden bloct supports that are padded so I cen attach the mast firmly to the boat when trailering. The actual process was an iteration that took a couple of seasons to perfect but it is now pretty good. Probably $1000 less than the Triad. If you need a trailer quickly - you should look for one ready to receive the Goldeneye rather than use the process I used.

[Oswego John]

Chris,

A while back, one of our contributors won a bid for a Typhoon on ebay. It was a humorous story because he already owned several other Cape Dorys. (? ies). He needed another boat like you need a root canal. Deep buyers remorse was setting in. lol

Anyhow, he was trying to get some measurements to convert a trailer that had rollers into one that has either bunks or poppets.

Maybe some of these measurements that I took off of my trailer will be of some help.

O J

Parfait's Provider wrote:


If anyone has dimensions for supporting a Ty, I'd like them too.

Ken,

It grieves me greatly to see one of my brothers suffer from buyer's remorse. Allow me the opportunity of relieving you of this anguish. Just say the word and I shall be down there tomorrow to pick up the ty to add to the Oswego fleet.

Seahunt, I've got first dibs on this.

Anywho, here are some measurements from my trailers. You might be able to correlate them with the adjustability of the roller supports that are presently on your trailer.

The trailer with the bunk rail supports, the supports are approximately 78" apart fore and aft. The rail starts slightly aft of the mast and continues back to roughly 12" aft of the center of the coaming. The contact point where the rail supports the hull is about 26" above the trailer frame. The rail on each side is about 22" outboard of the centerline of the hull. There is a vee, adjustible height support under the fore of the hull, 48" back from the extreme point of the bow.

I might add that you should only use two rail supports on each side. Any more than that prevents the rail from assuming the natural curve of the hull and encourages pressure points of support.

The trailer with the poppet, adjustable, screw type pad supports is a Triad. It has two pads on each side. It has no vee support under the bow section. It does have a vee nose stop about 51" back from the hitch. The stop is 42" above the top of the trailer frame.

This stop is mounted on a 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" square metal tube. Also supported on this tube is a semicirculat mast transport support, which is 57" above the frame. It also supports a winch which has a center line of 55" high. A nice added feature is that there is a three rung ladder welded to the post.

The foreward screw supports are located 60" aft of the bow nose stop. The screw jack supports lean slightly aft and inward. The second set of aft supports are 82" behind the foreward supports. These supports tilt slightly foreward and inward. The distance between the pads is approximately 44" port to starboard. The vertical adjustment screws range from about 23" to a cautious 36".

I'm sure that I left out a vital measurement or three. Feel free to get in touch for any other info.

If you send me a PM including your USPS snail address, I'll send you, in return mail, a pretty inclusive catalogue, with prices, of any known trailer part ever known to mankind. Simply oozing with ideas.

Remember, I have the Rx for buyer's remorse.

O J

[okawbow]

I made a trailer to fit my Sailstar Corinthian, (Bristol 19) from an old 2 axle power boat trailer. I removed the bunks, added a piece of channel for the keel, and welded in 1 1/2" pipes and braces for the adjustable pads. I put a rubber "vee" pad up front and a winch to pull the boat up tight for transport. I also made a 7' extension so I can launch the boat from a ramp. It all worked great. Not rally that hard to do, and cost less than $500.00