replacing teak toe rail

[ipswich]

about 3 feet of the teak tow rail on my typhoon was broken off this winter. does anyone have any tips on where/how to replace it? this doesn't seem like something you can just walk into a store and get fixed or ever really fix yourself...? help! (i have attached a photo)

[Russell]

I just did a nearly identical repair to my rub rail about a month ago, approximately 3 feet was damaged so I replaced it. I just borrowed a table saw, ripped a peice the right dimensions and screwed it on just like the old peices was, using epoxy at the joints and 4200 where the screws entered the hull. Took about an hour and you would have to look very closely to even ever know it was a repair.

Mine has bronze halfround on it though, so my teak outboard surface is flat. Yours looks like the wood is rounded, but that still wont be but a quick job with a router to get that rounding.

[Duncan Maio]

Tim:

I think I have a chunk of rub rail, but it is the square-ish variety that Russell described. Send me the overall dimensions of your rail and I will see if what I have will work for you.

[Dick Villamil]

I repaired my rub rail AND toe rails by scarfing in the pieces using a 4:1 scarf. Before epoxying you must wipe the surfaces to be epoxied with acetone to remove the natural teak oils. You may want to remove all old caulking and if you aren't going to use the same screw holes, fill in the holes in the hull and then put in all new holes because it is difficult to drill the teak to match the same holes in the fiberglass Also, make a recess in the new piece to hold the caulking so it all doesn't run out when tightening the screws/bolts whatever you use. After sanding and refinishing it will be as good as new!. I milled my teak out of a teak board hen pieced the pieces together to get a longer rub rail.

[jim trandel]

My rubrail was damaged by a careless sailor last season and I will need to reapir the damaged section. Would you recommend removing the entire rubrail (starboard side) and then make the repair or should I repair the damage while on the boat?

Best regards,
Jim

[jim trandel]

Here is a photo of rhe rubrail damage. Any help would be appreciated.
Thank
Jim
http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welc ... Fyzbt2LTZg

[Dick Villamil]

Jim - I would repair in place. Removing the entire rubrail IS a pain if you are trying to use the same piece. It is possible and I have done it but if you can get a good scarf joint and wash the ends with acetone before epoxying the joint, you may be better off. Just make sure that you fill in the old screw holes in the hull and make new ones to attach the new piece.

[Dick Villamil]

Make sure that you scarf each end so that the joints are well attached using epoxy as a glue (make sure that you wipe each piece with acetone to remove the teak oils before epoxying). I also recommend filling the old holes with epoxy then drilling new ones to attach the piece to. Although I didn't use 4200 it is a great product for this type of caulking.

[Jim Buck]

Ipswich,

Not sure if anybody mentioned this but to remove the old orange sealant a heat gun on low setting and and a narrow flat scraper works. Tried acetone and and other methods but this was the one one that removed 99% of the old sealant. Used 100 grit sandpaper to hit the small leftover spots. Have to be careful not to get below the bottom line of the rail or you will dull the gelcoat for all to see. Hope this helps.

[ipswich]

thanks everyone- and thank you for clarifying that it is called a rub rail.
i haven't gone ahead to work on it yet but i appreciate the thoughts and advice!
-tim

[JAS]

Before cutting out the damaged piece, check to see where the original scarfs are. I had similar damage repaired very nicely, but when completed, repair guy noticed how much easier it might have been had he removed one section of rail between joints. Joints on 1984 CD 31 appear to have been joined with the brown stuff, not epoxied.