TY Senior Motor Well

[Woody Norwood]

My biggest question about the TY Senior is the design of the outboard motor well. The literature about this boat bragged about the tilt-in outboard well and keeping the motor dry. Well, mine does not have any kind of tilt feature, and it looks like the motor is destined to keep its lower unit in the water unless I pull the whole engine out and either leave it on the dock for a race day or lying down in the cockpit when leaving it on the mooring. It's hard to believe this is the way it was designed. The local boat yard suggests open heart surgery involving cutting seriously into the beautiful transom and moving the traveler forward. I think we would also have to cut out the forward wall of the cover. Surely every other TY Senior has faced this question. What is an owner to do?

[Gary M]

Hi Woody,

Some one with more knowledge is bound to chime in but the two Typhoon Seniors I have been on board had no way to tilt the motor up.

Its a compromise to get the motor off of a stern mounted motor mount.

I had this same issue with a boat many years ago. All I could do is paint the shaft with anti fouling paint and pull it out of the water every 4 to 6 months for a good fresh water flush and maybe more paint. I could live with that more then when my well filled with water in a following sea. I don't think the Ty Senior has that problem.

One solution is to buy a light weight short shaft outboard that is easy to lift out. That idea obviously introduces new issues.

It is a great boat though,
Gary

[Woody Norwood]

Thanks Gary. My motor is a Mercury (Tohatsu) 4HP 4-stroke long shaft that weighs 58 pounds empty. In my sailing area (coastal South Carolina) the crud build-up below water is fast and intense, so what I plan is any time I am going to be a wqeek or more away from the boat, I'll haul up the motor, with the help of block and tackle attached to the boom, and lie nthe motor on cushions on the sole of the cockpit. That probably will get old but I do like having the motor in the well when in use for the convenience and the aesthetics.

I appreciate your thoughts.

[kerlandsen]

We sold our Typhoon a few years ago, but still keep in touch with the current owners and it is moored about 100 ft from our Sea Sprite 28.

Last spring I developed a bracket that would squeeze on to the ladder and create a brace for the standard engine mounts to hang on. THis put the engine standing upright in the companionway, inside. I will see if I can find a picture or two. I know I shared them inthe spring time.

There as a concern on this board about the smell and such being inside the boat. I do konw that the engine is run dry, no fuel, prior to be lifted out. Then stored while the boat is on the mooring for any real length of time. The feedback from the current owners is that the smell is not noticable and not a proble.

I doubt I could make two of these brackets, since the first one was so experimental and so many adjustments were made.

[Woody Norwood]

What a fantastic idea! That would also hide it from view and the elements. Thank you vewry much.

[kerlandsen]

I spent some time getting the position just right. Most of the weight of the engine sits on a board laying in the bottom of a bucket. This prevents any smelly cooling water from getting onto the floor as well as prevents any dings in the floor from the skeg. Theh brace does angle upwards just right from the top step so the mounting board is at the correct height. This took a few trys to get correct.

I don't know the details on the engine, but I think it is best if stored upright for a 4 cycle, this solves that problem. I was always going to make a sling system so the engine couldu be lifted using the main halyard, but for now Seth's back is still strong enough to lift the engine out.

Also, watch out if you are ever racing against this particular vessel, their tactician, me, has been known to remove the engine and put it down below so as to reduce drag...

Keep us posted with what you come up with. I know the Sea Sprite 23, which is about 90% the same boat, has a cover that can go over the engine hole once the engine is removed to reduce drag. I am not sure where those people put their engines during sailing. I also wondered if there was a way to lift the engine out and then have enough space to lay the engine flat under the lid. This would also require cutting fiberglass, but I figured it would all be hidden under the lid. But, I am a fan of making improvments that can be removed if they are ever out of taste and do not require drilling or cutting into a perfectly good vessel.

Kyle

[drb9]

I share this concern regarding my CD26. I gave up on trying to paint with anti-fouling paint. Last year, I bought a waterproof duffle bag. I placed gravel in the bottom to make it sink when not tied to the motor, and tied float line to each side of the bag. When I leave the slip, I let the bag sink to the bottom. When I return, I pull the duffle up around the outboard. I use a hand bilge pump to empty out the brackish water and refill with fresh water. (You have to refill with water so that it slips off the outboard when you want to leave the dock next time.)

Darin

[Markst95]

This might be blasphemy but does solve the problem.