Snatch blocks and inner tracks will not help Jeff as his daysailer has only 1 set of tracks and no stanchions. I am very interested in the problem as it relates to tys in general and daysailers in particular.
I have a sail rite 100 headsail kit for my Ty daysailer which is almost finished. The boat is currently going through a pretty extensive refit so I cannot try out the sail. But, I took the pattern and adapted it for a 135 for a weekender. The sail looks good and works pretty well but it really shutters at about 12k +. The boat has roller reefing so we have to start rolling it in early or really bang that sail. I don't think that sail is going to live to a ripe old age.
Insight into Jeff's problem or what I did wrong would be helpful.
Jib shutter
Moderator: Jim Walsh
No shutter
I purchased a TYW new in 1980 and owned it until 2009. I retained the hank on head sail and used sails from a storm jib up to a 150% Genny. I never experienced the shuttering that you are talking about. But, my CD25 came with a roller furling Jib which did shutter and when I removed it and returned to hank on sails the problem disappeared. Just throwing it out there for consideration.
Greg Lutzow
Nokomis, FL
CD25
"Beau Soleil"
sailing off a mooring in Sarasota Bay
With nothin' but stillness as far as you please
An' the silly mirage stringin' islands an' seas.
Nokomis, FL
CD25
"Beau Soleil"
sailing off a mooring in Sarasota Bay
With nothin' but stillness as far as you please
An' the silly mirage stringin' islands an' seas.
Interesting
The sail rite pattern is for Hank on a daysailer and we made mods to fit weekender with rf.[/i]
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kerlandsen
- Posts: 154
- Joined: Sep 10th, '07, 15:06
- Location: Sea Sprite 28, Emma L. #13
i have no experience with the Rig Rite kits, but I can impart some knowledge.
the trailing edge of a jib or genoa needs to have careful consideration as to its shape. Typically in our old boats, leech hollow must be included. In other words, the sail edge is curved in slightly between the head and clew. If there is extra material there, then it cannot be supported and will luff/shutter/shudder/flutter. Racing boats can use battens, some of them even furl. Blade jibs on racing boats often have battens, since getting enough tension in the leech is difficult. Mainsails have batten since they carry an appreciable amount of sail area beyond the straight line from head to clew. (thus the reason i hate the new rollaway mains furled inside the mast, no roach)
The leech line helps. Correct trim helps. Does the leech line stay tight? Is it there, is it broken? New sails have some nifty methods to control the leech line. I recall the old methods always slipping.
Initially I would be concerned about just sizing down a kit to make different size sails. The depth of the draft should be made different for different sails depending on what they are intended for. ie, the blade should be flat and the genoa should deep and round. A sail that is too round will be hard to fly correctly in breezy conditions.
halyard tension can also have an effect on leech shape, as well as luff shape of course.
the trailing edge of a jib or genoa needs to have careful consideration as to its shape. Typically in our old boats, leech hollow must be included. In other words, the sail edge is curved in slightly between the head and clew. If there is extra material there, then it cannot be supported and will luff/shutter/shudder/flutter. Racing boats can use battens, some of them even furl. Blade jibs on racing boats often have battens, since getting enough tension in the leech is difficult. Mainsails have batten since they carry an appreciable amount of sail area beyond the straight line from head to clew. (thus the reason i hate the new rollaway mains furled inside the mast, no roach)
The leech line helps. Correct trim helps. Does the leech line stay tight? Is it there, is it broken? New sails have some nifty methods to control the leech line. I recall the old methods always slipping.
Initially I would be concerned about just sizing down a kit to make different size sails. The depth of the draft should be made different for different sails depending on what they are intended for. ie, the blade should be flat and the genoa should deep and round. A sail that is too round will be hard to fly correctly in breezy conditions.
halyard tension can also have an effect on leech shape, as well as luff shape of course.
jib shutter
Thanks Kerlandsen and GLutzow ,
You have given me some places to look. The camber was all that was actually copied from the kit. The dimensions of the sail were copied from the old one.
There is leech hollow, in fact the sail is quite narrow near the top and that is where it shutters.
When I was observing the sail from another boat in stiff air, it appeared to have an exaggerated twist as well. I think a lot of it is trimming but some is the sail shape. The leech line has not yet been added. I will be added when the sacrificial cover is added--which needed tto be done ASAP. I think the leech line will help but I dont think it will take care of all of it.
It is a roller furling genoa and it was copied from sails that were hank on.
I will check the halyard tension. That could be an issue.
You have given me some places to look. The camber was all that was actually copied from the kit. The dimensions of the sail were copied from the old one.
There is leech hollow, in fact the sail is quite narrow near the top and that is where it shutters.
When I was observing the sail from another boat in stiff air, it appeared to have an exaggerated twist as well. I think a lot of it is trimming but some is the sail shape. The leech line has not yet been added. I will be added when the sacrificial cover is added--which needed tto be done ASAP. I think the leech line will help but I dont think it will take care of all of it.
It is a roller furling genoa and it was copied from sails that were hank on.
I will check the halyard tension. That could be an issue.