CD 25 Cabin Restoration

[sfreihofer]

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I am essentially finished with the cabin restoration of CD25 #794.




For more photos and information, please visit http://www.reefroof.com/interiordone.htm
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Stan Freihofer
1981 CD25 #794
Ft. Lauderdale
www.ReefRoof.com

[Markst95]

Nice!

[Zeida]

What a SUPER JOB! You should name her "Jewel"...

[randyk]

YOUR INTERIOR RESTOREATION LOOKS FLAWLESS YOU HAVE NO IDEA HOW MUCH I ENVY YOU. I OWN HULL #492, AND I HOPE TO GET HER DONE BY THE END OF 2011. MY BOAT IS 310 MI AWAY IN PORT ST JOE, FLA AT A QUAINT LITTLE MARINA CALLED CAPTAINS COVE. I HAVE TWO LARGE SPLITS IN THE STRBD TEAK BACKREST IN THE COCKPIT. TRYING TO FIND A GOOD MARINE CARPENTER. WOULD LIKE TO MAKE MY CD A BIT UNIQUE AND REPLACE BOTH SIDE W/MAHOGANY INSTEAD OF TEAK.

[sfreihofer]

Thank you Zeida! I'm considering your suggestion for her name.

Randy, is there any particular reason why you want to go with mahogany? The coaming boards have a bend to them. Teak will bend into place, but I think mahogany would be a good bit harder to bend, and may require steaming.

I would reconsider. If you use teak, you only have to replace one board... with mahogany you'd have to replace both. Teak is expensive, but not that hard to work with, and you only need one board. Buy a board of the dimensions (thickness, etc.) you want. If your coaming isn't in too bad a condition, you can use it as a template, trace around it, cut it out with a jig saw, and router the edges with a quarter round bit. A little sanding and install it. That's it, unless you're going to put a finish on it.

[J Stanley]

Your restoration is incredible. I just launched my 25 /760/, but won't post my pictures after seeing yours. Spray is in Vero Beach and has been a pleasure to work on still trying to track down some roller furling to finish the 1st stage of the restoration.

[jepomer]

I just removed (almost) all of the interior wood from my CD25 to thoroughly clean the interior AND have good access to the wiring and many of the bolts - some had been removed by the previous owner starting the refurbishment.

Some parts of the plywood showed some "softness". Most of the wood project will be done during the winter months.

The two bulkheads under the mast area are also "glued" in place to the headliner. Other than slowly slicing through the adhesive, is there another way to quickly detach the panels from the ceiling liner?

It is amazing how much dirt and dust accumulated under the wood covered areas. I do like the more open feeling with the companionway steps and berth panels removed. Wondering how I can maintain the access to the aft now that is there when the cooler is out. I did like the steps, though.

[Ron M.]

John,
Keep in mind those bulkheads are important to the structural integrity of your boat.......especially the ones under the mast area.
Also, when the boat is on the hard it's shape alters somewhat from how she sits in the water. If you remove any components, ensure you maintain those tolerances.

[jepomer]

Ron,

I realize that the two midship bulkheads are structural members which distribute the load of primarily the mast but also some lateral support. The "adhesive material" was used only at this location where these panels meet the overhead liner - not on any of the other panels which came out very easily.

The adhesive material appears to fill a constant distance between the panel and the liner. This is consistent with good epoxy/fiberglass technique to spread the load, yet avoid creating a "hard" point.

What I am looking for is the easiest/best method to separate to bulkhead panel adhesive.

Once these panels are out, I will have easy access to the head/hanging locker portlights. This Cape Dory 25 came with the plastic ones. They will be replaced by new bronze ones from New Found Metals. I also need to rewire everything.

The only panels I want to modify are the ones under the companionway area.I do want to have reasonable access to the aft area, yet retain the separation.