recommendations for teak perservative & valve beneath dr

[gusto]

I must once again clean the teak on our Typhoon. Previously, I've oil but not a preservative/sealant after cleaning. Of course, this process must be repeated at least every 2 years to keep the teak for graying. I don't much care for the look of varnish. Does anyone have a recommendation for a coating which would preserve the look of natural teak for longer?

Also one of the valves under the deck drain is weathered shut. It doesn't feel like it will yield to any amount of WD-40. I think it probably need replacement perhaps with a handle valve rather than the circular fauncet-like valves the boat has now. Any recommendation as to where to find a decent replacement? Can one do this replacement while the boat is in the water?

Thanks for any advice....Gusto

[Markst95]

The round Circular valve is probably a gate valve and should be replaced. There are Seacocks available but if its an older Ty its hard to get one to fit. I took mine out and used Marelon thru hulls and am on my third season and have had no problems. You should haul the boat out to fix them.

[img]http://i365.photobucket.com/albums/oo99 ... uppers.jpg[/img]

[Oswego John]

Hi Gusto,

I had a friend on L.I. back some years ago whose nickname was Gusto.

There are more effective penetrants than WD-40 that you should try first. A few of them are Liquid Wrench and PB Blaster. There are others.

Make sure that you loosen the bonnet nut on the valve so that the penetrant can run down inside of the valve.

After the application has had a chance to set in, give the valve a sharp rap or three to break loose some of the crud that's freezing up the valve stem. Allow enough time for the penetrant to do its job, don't rush it.

Unless you REALLY know what you are doing, I don't advise removing any underwater valve or replace any hose while the boat is in the water.

Good luck,

O J

[gusto]

Thanks to both of you. I'll try the Liquid Wrench & PB Blaster before replacing the valves. The picture looks like the Marelon system has no valve and frankly I've never understood why there's a reason to close a valve on the Typhoon. So if I can't open the present valve, I'll certainly check out the Marelon system.

[doubleb]

I had the same problem on my 25.
you’re better off with a stuck shut valve than one stuck open as far as gates go.
Most gate valves stick shut due to over torque and dried out packing. As Oswego John said loosen the packing nut, soak with PB blaster (it worked better for me, your mileage may vary). Let it soak for a week, if you can reapply while you are waiting that helps.
Put large cannel locks on the handle keep even pressure and tap on the valve nut at the same time. It should start to turn, mine went pop. (it was over tightened) I cycled the valve a few times, retightened the packing. Works great. The new owner of the boat is still cycling the valves on a regular basis with no issues .

Gate valves are a funny animal. They do not seat against a rubber surface as like a hose spigot or sink valve.
They have a sliding gate (duh) hard face to hard face the only thing you do by over tightening is jamb the gate deeper into the channel. The proper way to close or open is to turn the handle until tight then back off 1/8th of a turn. The pressure from the liquid you are stopping actually forces the valve to seal. Tight is good but tight, tight is bad. Yes the gate is sort of wedge if a gate is leaking its more likely to have a bad spot on the face of the gate or the body of the valve and over tightening will not stop the leak. It’s time to replace.
Oh well I need more coffee????

B.B.

[Steve Laume]

I must once again clean the teak on our Typhoon. Previously, I've oil but not a preservative/sealant after cleaning. Of course, this process must be repeated at least every 2 years to keep the teak for graying. I don't much care for the look of varnish. Does anyone have a recommendation for a coating which would preserve the look of natural teak for longer?

Thanks for any advice....Gusto

Notice how everyone ignored the teak finishing portion of this post? When you got to the interval of refinishing, I thought for sure it was going to be 2 months, not years. There is no easy way out. I have seen some beautiful boats with Semco on the teak. It still needs to be done at least every season to keep it looking really good. Teak oil is slightly less durable. I know as that was the progression on Raven.

Beautiful teak is the joy and the curse of owning a Cape Dory, Steve.

[gusto]

Steve; Yeah, I agree w/ the 2 months. The 2 years was w/ oil & the boat was shrinkwrapped for the winter and even then I was probably just remembering the teak on the boards to the cabin. I've tried to keep up the cleaning yearly but apart from the time I also don't like generating the acid-base waste.

Thanks as well for additional info on the valves, I'll certainly try the Liquid Plumber....Gusto