Where the mooring lines fore and aft come over the mahogany rub rails, there is constant chafing on the rails. The lines are ok with antichafing covers but the rub rails are wearing. I'd like to put brass overlays on these areas and wonder where others get the brass? Any help would be much appreciated
CYLAN II, CD25D, #99
thanks,
jim
CD25D Rub Rail Repair
Moderator: Jim Walsh
I guess brass 1/2 round would work.........bronze I couldn't find.
I used 3/8" stainless 1/2 round about 6' long on the rubrails either side of the bow. It has done the job preventing wear of the wood.
I replaced the toe and rub rails on both sides because they were damaged and worn severely form mooring lines in the past. Also put some on the stern behind the chocks to save wearing the teak away from dingy lines etc.
Defender or Hamilton Supply carry brass and stainless among others.
I found mine at a marine consignment shop in R.I. at a good savings.
I used 3/8" stainless 1/2 round about 6' long on the rubrails either side of the bow. It has done the job preventing wear of the wood.
I replaced the toe and rub rails on both sides because they were damaged and worn severely form mooring lines in the past. Also put some on the stern behind the chocks to save wearing the teak away from dingy lines etc.
Defender or Hamilton Supply carry brass and stainless among others.
I found mine at a marine consignment shop in R.I. at a good savings.
CD 30c #42
S/V "Bluesails"
+ 41.69989
-70.027199
S/V "Bluesails"
+ 41.69989
-70.027199
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Steve Laume
- Posts: 4127
- Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 20:40
- Location: Raven1984 Cape Dory 30C Hull #309Noank, CT
- Contact:
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barfwinkle
- Posts: 2169
- Joined: Feb 6th, '05, 10:34
- Location: S/V Rhapsody CD25D
Chocks
Good Morning Jim
Doesn't Cylan have a C210PB chock at the stearn and something similiar to the C206PB at the bow? (see Pic) Rhapsody's dock lines don't touch the rail or the stearn teak.
<img src="http://spartanmarine.com/image/11.jpg">
Fair winds.
Doesn't Cylan have a C210PB chock at the stearn and something similiar to the C206PB at the bow? (see Pic) Rhapsody's dock lines don't touch the rail or the stearn teak.
<img src="http://spartanmarine.com/image/11.jpg">
Fair winds.
Bill Member #250.
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Steve Laume
- Posts: 4127
- Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 20:40
- Location: Raven1984 Cape Dory 30C Hull #309Noank, CT
- Contact:
Raven has a full compliment of cleats and chocks. I still needed to add brass rub strips in various places to prevent chafing the rub and toe rails in certain situations.
When I took over Raven she was on a mooring but the ball was sunk! This put all the pull straight down on the mooring pennant. That cause a major amount of chafe on the rub rail. I filled the damaged area with epoxy and filler. While it was still workable I place waxed paper over it and screwed on the brass rub strips. This not only kept the epoxy from drooping but also formed it to the profile of the existing rails. Once it cured I removed the rails and did some additional shaping and sanding. The rub rail piece at the bow is about 2' long. There is a 8" piece of really nice heavy old bronze rub strip (I found this while diving in the 70s) on the vertical face just below the chock.
When Raven sits in her winter slip, I do not run the stern lines through the stern chock. The lead is much better if allowed to run over the toe rail so it got another couple of feet of brass.
The top edge of the rear cockpit combing got a 1/2" piece of brass this spring. It is an area that I stand on at times. The main reason for this piece was that my wind vane lines just graze the top of it. I planed off enough of the teak so the brass sets in to replace the rounded over portion and butts into the combing boards on either side.
Doing the tops of the combing boards wouldn't really be a bad idea either. They tend to get dinged and it is the first place for the finish to begin to break down.
When towing the dink in feisty conditions the painter will sometimes jump out of the stern chocks. I have not done this yet but it is calling for a bit of protection on the aft edge of the tariff rail.
Even with chocks a bit of brass rub strip saves a lot of finish and some teak, Steve.
When I took over Raven she was on a mooring but the ball was sunk! This put all the pull straight down on the mooring pennant. That cause a major amount of chafe on the rub rail. I filled the damaged area with epoxy and filler. While it was still workable I place waxed paper over it and screwed on the brass rub strips. This not only kept the epoxy from drooping but also formed it to the profile of the existing rails. Once it cured I removed the rails and did some additional shaping and sanding. The rub rail piece at the bow is about 2' long. There is a 8" piece of really nice heavy old bronze rub strip (I found this while diving in the 70s) on the vertical face just below the chock.
When Raven sits in her winter slip, I do not run the stern lines through the stern chock. The lead is much better if allowed to run over the toe rail so it got another couple of feet of brass.
The top edge of the rear cockpit combing got a 1/2" piece of brass this spring. It is an area that I stand on at times. The main reason for this piece was that my wind vane lines just graze the top of it. I planed off enough of the teak so the brass sets in to replace the rounded over portion and butts into the combing boards on either side.
Doing the tops of the combing boards wouldn't really be a bad idea either. They tend to get dinged and it is the first place for the finish to begin to break down.
When towing the dink in feisty conditions the painter will sometimes jump out of the stern chocks. I have not done this yet but it is calling for a bit of protection on the aft edge of the tariff rail.
Even with chocks a bit of brass rub strip saves a lot of finish and some teak, Steve.
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Troy Scott
- Posts: 1470
- Joined: Jan 21st, '06, 01:23
- Location: Cape Dory 36 IMAGINE Laurel, Mississippi
teak protection
I just discovered this discussion. In fact I've been thinking about the same thing. I had good luck several years ago making some small stainless steel pieces to protect the area around the canopy of an airplane because sometimes folks would try to slam the canopy shut with the pins extended. I'm thinking about making some similar pieces to protect the vulnerable corners of the teak just outboard of the chocks. I think that if I make a smooth radius the stainless protector will not wear the line. I certainly wouldn't want a sharp corner.
Regards,
Troy Scott
Troy Scott