Transmission Cable Replacement

[Brett I. Miller]

Had a little problem with my transmission cable yesterday -- it snapped off at the connection to the tranny. Happened coming into the slip -- boat stuck in reverse. No worries, just cut the engine without damage to property or person.

It's my suspicion (from looking at it and some Internet searches) that the whole ball of wax has to be replaced -- can't just tread the cable through the existing housing -- that would be too easy.

I'm dealing with a Yanmar 3JH4 (repowered about 7 years ago) and a standard Edson pedestal with the rear mounted forward/reverse lever. I haven't pulled the compass head off, but before I started, I wanted to confirm my assumption that I was in for a big project.

An insights regarding parts & costs (and sources for same) and any tricks involved from those who have been through this drill recently would be appreciated. I'd prefer not to pay someone to do this job.

Thanks in advance.

Brett

[John Danicic]

Brett:

Had a similar problem though Mariah's cable broke off in the pedestal. Either way you need to replace the whole cable.
I suggest HI-LEX CONTROL CABLES They are much smoother moving by far then the more common Morse Teleflex in my experience and thats what you want to keep this from happening again or rather, too often.

The job is not too onerous except at the pedestal where it helps to have a pair of 12 inch long forceps to guide a bolt that must fit through a hole in the pedestal while holding on to both the shift and throttle cables. You might as well replace both while you are at it. Not sure what the length is for a Yanmar but you want it as short as possible. Edison has directions on its website for replacing the cable. Good luck!

[Bob L]

Brett,

I replaced both transmission and throttle cable last year. If you go to Edson's site, you'll find instructions on how to do it. Once you do this, you'll have the experience down if you ever have to do it again.

Bob L

[Brett I. Miller]

John and Bob,

Thanks for the reply. I'm about 80% of the way there. Still need to struggle with the internal mount. Talked to a marine tech to see if he had had suggestions -- he just started laughing and suggested a "long ass" screw driver. Good thing I've got one of those. Had to disconnect the chain to get the mount up too. Never like doing that, but so far so good.

Best, Brett

[gates_cliff]

Need to check and replace or repair transmission cable on my Cd 27. First question is how do I get down there and back out? I'm serious! Then has anyone done this? If so, any tips, advice?

Thanks

[John Ring]

Not sure how much room you have on a CD27, but I just replaced both cables on my CD36. It's often easier to remove the bracket from the transmission than it is to remove the cable from the bracket. Once that's free, you can usually pull it up into a cockpit locker to free the cable from the bracket. Once the bracket is off, you can snake the cable up through the pedestal. Always best to replace both cables while you're in there.



John

[gates_cliff]

Thanks for that advice , makes a lot of sense . I'll have to check and see if I can access it. Also, the picture is invaluable, as I am a visible learner!

[tjr818]

Need to check and replace or repair transmission cable on my Cd 27. First question is how do I get down there and back out? I'm serious! Then has anyone done this? If so, any tips, advice?

Thanks

Usually on a 27 the best way to access the back of the engine compartment is to go through from the front. Put a cushion on top of the engine and rest your stomach / chest on the cushion. I've gone down into the cockpit locker only once. I won't do that again without a very trustworthy helper.

[gates_cliff]

Thanks Tim, I just for home from my boat and arrived at the same conclusion.

When I first bought my boat the survey had indicated I needed to replace the fuel tank and retab the bullhead surrounding it. I was able to order an exact replacement tank, and installed it and retabbed the bulkhead, I decided to go ahead and replace all the fuel lines, so I'm scrunched down in the cockpit locker and twisting around. After awhile I'm ready get put and I had wedged myself in the locker. Now, I've never been claustrophobic in my life, but have to admit a hint of panic entered my head. I had to make myself take some deep breaths, relax and and literally untwist myself. Of course, the boat was in a yard, it was getting late and there wasn't anyone around.

So, I agree I'm not going to get semi trapped in there again, that's for sure.

[Steve Laume]

I don't suffer from lockerphobia but I do take some precautions. I suppose you could take your phone down there with you but who ya gonna call? I almost never carry mine anyway so have never considered it.

What I have done on Raven is to make up a short length of small stuff and tie one end to the clasp on the cockpit locker. The other end has a brass clip that can be left to dangle most of the time. If things get truly nasty the clip can be put through the eye in the clasp to secure the locker without locking it with a pad lock. What I mostly use this for, is to secure the locker in the open position by clipping it to the life line. This would prevent the locker from ever accidentally closing while you are down in there. I use it all the time to keep the locker from slamming shut as I am trying to get things out of there. It becomes essential if you are heeled well over and the are some waves thrown in the mix. You can use both of your hands without worry that the lid will smash your head or fingers.

One more thing to consider is disabling the return spring in the clasp. It is only useful in keeping the lid shut and the clip does a more positive job. Once the spring is gone (cut) you can still lift the lid, even if you are inside. You can also lift the lid with one had without messing with the clasp in any situation, Steve.

[gates_cliff]

Steve, good points. I started putting my cell in my pocket, thinking as a last resort I could call 911. How embarrassing would that be?

I had had the foresight to tie a piece of line to the latch and to a lifeline to keep it from slamming shut.

Nonetheless, when I was looking at the situation yesterday, I don't believe I could get myself far enough down to get to the transmission unless I went in head first!

[Jeff Barnes]

John,

Noticed the nice installation of your transmission control cable. I have a CD36 as well (#68, 1982) with the same transmission. Curious as to which mfg. of cable(s) you installed and what lengths? My shift cable is developing a mind of its own.

Regards,

Jeff

[John Ring]

Thanks Jeff.

I used Teleflex Extreme 3300 for both. I think I used 8' for the tranny, and 9' for the throttle.

John

[John Ring]

One more thing Jeff (& other CD36'ers):

The two bolts holding the bracket to the tranny look the same, but the upper bolt is a actually longer. I noticed it when I laid the two bolts down side by side. Sure enough, the upper casting on the tranny is deeper. Be sure to put the bolts back in the right places, else this easy job could become more work than it should.

John
CD36 Tiara