Spinnaker Rigging CD 28
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Spinnaker Rigging CD 28
We are new owners of a CD 28--we had about 4 weeks of time on her last summer--and as we get ready for another season, I'm thinking about the spinnaker that came with. The PO didn't seem to know much about the rigging for the spinnaker, so I'm on my own. A boat I owned previously had blocks mounted on the deck port and starboard about where the coaming ends.
Wondering if anyone has had the experience of rigging spinnaker hardware, and would welcome some good advice on how best to do it.
Appreciate your thoughts,
Rusty
"Windigo"
Wondering if anyone has had the experience of rigging spinnaker hardware, and would welcome some good advice on how best to do it.
Appreciate your thoughts,
Rusty
"Windigo"
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- Location: Feet Dry, Olympia, WA
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- Location: s/v LIQUIDITY, CD28. We sail from Marina Bay on Boston Harbor. Try us on channel 9.
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Genoa blocks for assym
Can one sheet a small assym to the genoa blocks, if they are slid all the way aft on the track?
- Steve Laume
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- Location: Raven1984 Cape Dory 30C Hull #309Noank, CT
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Raven used to use her stern cleats for turning blocks. All it took was a short loop of tubular webbing attached with a larks head through the eye of the cleat. Clip a snatch block into the loop and you were set to go.
The problem was that those stern cleat had a lot of competition for usage. Dinghy painter, jack lines and turning blocks made things very crowded. I solved the situation by adding a well backed pad eye just forward of the stern cleat. the cleats are now used for the dinghy and docking. The pad eye for the jack lines and turning blocks.
You can use your staysail halyard for the pole topping lift. The bow cleats work for the down haul.
If you figure out how to rig your pole without a sail on it, half the battle is won. I have not flown the symmetrical spinnaker that many times but it always seems more time consuming than difficult to set up.
If you do not already have one, I would highly recommend a sock for deployment and retrieval.
Make sure you have plenty of running room when you first try it out, Steve.
The problem was that those stern cleat had a lot of competition for usage. Dinghy painter, jack lines and turning blocks made things very crowded. I solved the situation by adding a well backed pad eye just forward of the stern cleat. the cleats are now used for the dinghy and docking. The pad eye for the jack lines and turning blocks.
You can use your staysail halyard for the pole topping lift. The bow cleats work for the down haul.
If you figure out how to rig your pole without a sail on it, half the battle is won. I have not flown the symmetrical spinnaker that many times but it always seems more time consuming than difficult to set up.
If you do not already have one, I would highly recommend a sock for deployment and retrieval.
Make sure you have plenty of running room when you first try it out, Steve.
I bought one of the "0" models:
http://www.na.northsails.com/SailProduc ... fault.aspx
It uses the jib halyard; the luff is free - not on the forestay. It uses the genoa car/track and it sheets and tacks just like a big light genoa.
Very simple.
http://www.na.northsails.com/SailProduc ... fault.aspx
It uses the jib halyard; the luff is free - not on the forestay. It uses the genoa car/track and it sheets and tacks just like a big light genoa.
Very simple.
I'm disinclined to acquiesce to your request. Means no.
Thank you all!
I'm away from the boat, so couldn't determine the type of chute. There is a spinnaker pole, so I assume it was used. The sail has a green edge on one side, red on the other. As I was staring at pics of the aft quarters, it occurred to me that where the cleats are is where the blocks ought to be, but I have you all (Steve) to thank for pointing out the obvious. Use the cleats for the blocks. Can anyone recommend size/type for this use. Again, thank you all for commenting. Love this board and the folks who volunteer their experiences here.
I have a 28, and it's rigged as such:
jib boom was removed in favor of roller fairing, so I use the starboard block to turn the spinnaker halyard aft, and use the cabin top winch and cam cleat to hoist.
I have a pair of blocks with beckets on a short loop of line. the line goes through, then around, the cleats, just as you would a dock line, leaving the blocks about 10" forward of the cleats. a short lenth of shock cord tied to the beckets and the lifelines keeps the blocks from banging up the deck.
Spinnaker sheets come aft, go through the blocks, then forward to the winches. the jib sheets need to be removed from the winches, or everything fouls.
I also have a pole and and topping lift, but usually just use a cruising spinnaker. I would heartily recommend a spinnaker sock, as I don't have one, and the takedowns are a mad scramble without one - I'm going to treat myself to one this year.
Matt
I have a pair of blocks with beckets on a short loop of line. the line goes through, then around, the cleats, just as you would a dock line, leaving the blocks about 10" forward of the cleats. a short lenth of shock cord tied to the beckets and the lifelines keeps the blocks from banging up the deck.
Spinnaker sheets come aft, go through the blocks, then forward to the winches. the jib sheets need to be removed from the winches, or everything fouls.
I also have a pole and and topping lift, but usually just use a cruising spinnaker. I would heartily recommend a spinnaker sock, as I don't have one, and the takedowns are a mad scramble without one - I'm going to treat myself to one this year.
Matt
- Wingaersheek II
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Cape Dory 27 #250
Port Washington, WI
Symmetrical
Hi Rusty:
There was a Cape Dory 28 by the name of Windigo in Manitowoc, WI, that was for sale last year. I am guessing this is the same boat? Where is it's new home port?
Regarding your spinnaker, if there is a red and a green edge, then it's a symmetrical.
Jim
There was a Cape Dory 28 by the name of Windigo in Manitowoc, WI, that was for sale last year. I am guessing this is the same boat? Where is it's new home port?
Regarding your spinnaker, if there is a red and a green edge, then it's a symmetrical.
Jim