Solar Charger - Mounting Location / Wiring / Type?

[Chris Reinke]

Our CD330 is going to be spending her summer on our mooring and I am considering installing a solar charger. I want sufficient recharging capacity to recharge the batteries while cruising if I run the running lights or anchor light overnight, and recharge my handheld UHF. I also want to top off the batteries if I am off her for an extended period (2-3 weeks). I currently have 3 Group 31 batteries on 2 banks. Any recommendations on a quality manufacturer or model?

The next issue will be finding a mounting location for the panel that will get sufficient unobstructed light, without causing a tripping hazard. One thought was the main hatchway cover panel (sorry don't know the correct term for the panel that covers the hatchway while the hatchway is open). I have 2 concerns with this location:
1 - Will the boom and sail cover obstruct so much of the direct sunlight that the panels efficiency will be dramatically effected?
2 - Many panel manufacturers report that the panels can be occasionally stepped on, but in this locations I am afraid the panel will get repeatedly stepped on even if by accident.

If not on the hatchway, then any other recommendations for mounting. I considered just securing the panel in the cockpit for the times I am away from the boat, but that will not help me recharge the batteries after an overnight passage.

Any suggestions on panels, recommendations of mounting locations, words of encouragement for various wiring options, or name calling of the skipper is totally appreciated.

[moctrams]

I rigged my rigid solar panel off the rear of my bimini. I can rotate it up/down to get the best sun.

[John Danicic]

Chris:

Consider rail mounting your panel.

Kyocera Solar makes good, hard panels that can be wired into a regulator and will keep you batteries in top shape. I have four 40 watt panels mounted on a rail, two on each side of the cockpit. They can be tilted up to catch the best sun and can be folded down vertically so don't get in the way at all. Shadows, even a tiny line or back stay shadow can dramatically reduce your panels out put so you should mount them where you have the least possibility of shade. My brother with a CD 33, mounts a single 60 watt Kyocera on the stern rail tilted mostly horizontally and it took very good care of his batteries while on a mooring. You need to get a good solar regulator for any larger panel or you could fry your batteries. May I suggest Ferris Power products as a good location to start your research.http://www.hamiltonferris.com/solar-power.html

For Mariah, the 120 watts is more then enough to keep the batteries up while running refrigeration, lights and radio. I have found that the solar panels are more successful because I switched to almost all LED lighting which uses a 10th of the power that the OME tungsten bulbs use. I think I could get by with only two panels but it is nice to have the extra power.

[Duncan]

I saw a 75W panel on sale yesterday, for $80, which seemed attractive to me.

The 75W @15 volts would be 5 amps/hour at peak, right? For the real world, I guesstimated 1/2 of this rate, 1/2 the time, for 8 hours/day, times an 80% acceptance rate into the batteries, or about 8 amps a day, net?

The size of the panel was a bit of a concern for me, about 40" X 12". I pictured "wing-nutting" the panel onto the cockpit seat or the foredeck for when the boat sits on the mooring, and stowing it in the hanging locker underway. The panel just seemed too big for a permanent mounting on a CD 27?

In addition to the physical size of the panel, the amount of peak power made me think I probably should have a charge controller.

So, biggish panel, plus a controller, versus a smaller panel without one? Any guidance?

[Steve Laume]

I have a small 10 watt semi flexible panel on Raven. It has grommets in the corners so it can be tied on just about anywhere. I have small pad eyes on the sea hood where it lives most of the time. I can adjust the lines to slide it to one side or the other or even move it to the rail.

A panel this size does not need a regulator with my battery bank. I set up a cigarette lighter socket on it's own breaker that is hot even when the main battery selector switch is off. This is where it gets plugged in.

While a panel this small will not supply nearly all of your electrical needs it does work very well to keep your batteries topped up when you are gone from the boat. It will replace the power you might use for a day sail in the time you are away before using the boat again.

I feel replacing all you bulbs with LEDs is a good first step in energy management. We do not have refrigeration so our only significant uses are radios and the chart plotter.

It would be nice to have a larger panel but there is not that much room and we seem to be getting by. If I ever get around to building a hard dodger that would be the spot, Steve.

[mike ritenour]

Duncan,
May I ask where you saw the panel for sale.
thanks,
Rit

[Duncan]

Hi Mike
I saw it in a Canadian Tire store, in the automotive section, marked down from $140. It was in Canadian packaging (showed a map of solar intensity across Canada on the back of the box).

Want me to buy it for you? I've just about decided it's too big for me.

[John Danicic]

Duncan:

There are so many things to consider when you add solar panels.
Battery capacity, location, regulation, monitoring and conservation.

Really the first thing you should do is conserve electrical power by changing to all LED lighting. This is becoming a more affordable and effective way of late with direct replacement bulbs now available from Dr. LED, West Marine and Sailor's Solutions.

A 75 watt panel would need a regulator unless you have a huge capacity battery bank. There is a formula for the amperage of an unregulated solar arrays vs regulated but I can't remember it.

Monitoring the state of your battery with something a bit more sophisticated then the CD panel battery meter is the way to really understand your battery and charging system. The Link 10 meter is just one of the "smart" meters out there but it is a good one.

As for the 40 x 12 panel. On our boats, the bigger the panel, the more potential that a small part of it will be effected by a stray shadow limiting its output. Also, I have found that the cheaper panels are much more debilitated by cloudy days and shadows. It is all a trade off and mostly has to do with money, yours.

I would think that a 40 watt 24 x 26 Kyocera mounted on your stern rail would be plenty to recharge a small battery bank while at a mooring or under way. The wiring would be closer to the batteries as well, assuming that they are in the cockpit lockers so the wire gage could be smaller. This set up could also be great for winter layup, allowing you to leave batteries in place and charged for months.

That said, with out the refrigeration beast to feed, and with energy conservation practices, a smaller, cheaper panel, 15 watts or less could be used as a trickle charger but you need to place it in the most sunny place on the boat and preferably should moor said boat in the sunniest location around. The top of the dodger is not the best place when it comes to shadows. Watch that spot on a sunny day and see how shadows from the boom or rigging fall across. Each shadow on each panel will limit its output significantly. 6 or more separate panels would work better then a larger single panel for not all would be in shadows at the same time.

Solar power has its limitations but it is more then likely the future and will only get better. I am very glad I jumped in for Mariah. I have little need to run the engine or plug into shore power for charging since I did.

[mike ritenour]

John,
I purchased a couple of replacement bulbs from Dr. LED at West Marine and was highly disappointed in the amount of light.
Did you buy all new fixtures or just replace the bulbs?
thanks,
rit

[Duncan]

Thanks, John, those all seem like very good points.

I saw that formula, by the way, when I was googling around yesterday. Somebody quoted it at 10W per 100 ah.

On the one hand, I value self-sufficiency because I don't have access to shore power. I'd also like to keep the batteries in good enough shape that they will last me a good long while.

On the other hand, I am pretty miserly when it comes to electricity on the boat. I'm usually asleep by the time I'd need to turn the lights on . I have a hand crank which I hope will provide a workable backup way of starting the engine.

I do think LED lights, a proper monitor, regulator and a smallish panel would be the right way to go, as you say.

Duncan:

There are so many things to consider when you add solar panels.
Battery capacity, location, regulation, monitoring and conservation.

Really the first thing you should do is conserve electrical power by changing to all LED lighting. This is becoming a more affordable and effective way of late with direct replacement bulbs now available from Dr. LED, West Marine and Sailor's Solutions.

A 75 watt panel would need a regulator unless you have a huge capacity battery bank. There is a formula for the amperage of an unregulated solar arrays vs regulated but I can't remember it.

Monitoring the state of your battery with something a bit more sophisticated then the CD panel battery meter is the way to really understand your battery and charging system. The Link 10 meter is just one of the "smart" meters out there but it is a good one.

As for the 40 x 12 panel. On our boats, the bigger the panel, the more potential that a small part of it will be effected by a stray shadow limiting its output. Also, I have found that the cheaper panels are much more debilitated by cloudy days and shadows. It is all a trade off and mostly has to do with money, yours.

I would think that a 40 watt 24 x 26 Kyocera mounted on your stern rail would be plenty to recharge a small battery bank while at a mooring or under way. The wiring would be closer to the batteries as well, assuming that they are in the cockpit lockers so the wire gage could be smaller. This set up could also be great for winter layup, allowing you to leave batteries in place and charged for months.

That said, with out the refrigeration beast to feed, and with energy conservation practices, a smaller, cheaper panel, 15 watts or less could be used as a trickle charger but you need to place it in the most sunny place on the boat and preferably should moor said boat in the sunniest location around. The top of the dodger is not the best place when it comes to shadows. Watch that spot on a sunny day and see how shadows from the boom or rigging fall across. Each shadow on each panel will limit its output significantly. 6 or more separate panels would work better then a larger single panel for not all would be in shadows at the same time.

Solar power has its limitations but it is more then likely the future and will only get better. I am very glad I jumped in for Mariah. I have little need to run the engine or plug into shore power for charging since I did.

[barfwinkle]

Duncan

I use this system aboard Rhapsody and #1 I love it and #2 it keeps the batteries fully charged.

<a target="blank" href="http://www.emarineinc.com/products/10W- ... html">Nice 10W System</a>

I don't have much of a amp draw aboard and since installing the panel I have not had any issues. I have a Group 27 and 24 batteries aboard.



If you haven't already seen it <a target="blank" href="http://www.capedory.org/board/viewtopic ... ght=">This link</a> is to a similar thread from several years back with good information in it as well.

Go for it you won't regret it. Fair WInds

[John Danicic]

Duncan:

Sorry about my long winded rejoinder. Solar power is tremendously interesting to me, so I tend to go on.. but I am glad you started with conservation, something sailors, in general, are historically good at.

To Rit.

The LED's from Sailors Solutions, the Sensibulb, is the best replacement for the current CD overhead light fixtures that I have found. Bright and easy to install with a good, warm color. Expensive, yes. But there is no need to put them into every light aboard. Over the sink and the galley are good fixtures to start in.

I have newer Sensibulbs that are much brighter then the first ones I got 5 years ago or so. For the reading lights, I bought early bayonet mount directional light that is only good in the bunks for reading and only if the light is pointed directly at the page. You can adapt the Sensibulb to work in that fixture which would be better and brighter.

Dr. LED have very bright navigational lights that replace the index bulbs in my Series 40 fixtures.
The power consumption is less then a half an amphr for both navigation lights instead of the 5 amp hrs draw of OME tungsten bulbs.

[mike ritenour]

John,
Duh, I now remember you giving me this info at anchor off York Island.
Should have written it down. Musta been rum involved.
Thanks,
Rit

[John Danicic]

And it will be again.

[Evergreen]

John D:

You have a beautiful panel setup that I have also seen on other cruising boats.

But, aren't the panels always at significant risk of damage whenever you come into a dock etc.? I would think that the slightest little thing sticking out might easily fracture a panel. Also, I know you are in fresh water, but does having them so low possible expose them to the chance of damage from sea water? I would have jumped on such a setup years ago but I was always too worried about possible damage.

Do the panels get in the way of you head sail sheet winch handles?

Thanks, I appreciate your detailed input.