Gut Check for repacing standing rigging.

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BubbaThePirate
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Gut Check for repacing standing rigging.

Post by BubbaThePirate »

I will not likely be stepping the mast and getting into this until late Summer, maybe early Spring 2012, but here is my current plan to replace standing rigging and replace current chainplates with external ones a la Fred Bickum's Fenix. http://www.sbastro.com/FeNIX/Projects/Rigging.htm. Also DaveC on Alaina followed Fred's lead.

Currently, the boat is on the hard, the mast is down and across town in the marina's mast rack. I would like to cut out the 'J' hooks and other sundry "lower chainplate stuff" while I'm working on the interior. Then the hooks would also be out of the way when I drill holes for the external chainplates.

However, the trick is this. I'm going to need to re-attach the old rigging in order to measure, cut and install the new chainplates and the new rigging. My plan is to fabricate metal backing plates to reattach the chainplate fittintgs to thru the deck. When the marina puts the mast back up, these will hold the mast up and steady it as I climb the mast. The boat is in a protected spot under a bluff that protects it from the prevailing wind. I can use halyards and other line to give extra support to the mast. An old picture of where the boat sits: https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/l ... directlink

What am I missing? Any thoughts or comments are welcome.

Thanks,
Todd
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Steve Laume
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Post by Steve Laume »

My question is why? I know Fred did this and he had a very specific reason for doing so. Are your backing plates gone? Does this seem like an easier solution than dealing with the originals?

If I was going to be climbing my mast on the hard, I would have a whole bunch of lines secured to the masthead and some very solid anchor points well away from the boat to keep it from tumbling over with me up the mast.

I certainly wouldn't trust the stands, Steve.
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BubbaThePirate
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Post by BubbaThePirate »

hmm, I hadn't thought about the stands yet. Though she is on a cradle which is slightly more cohesive, but perhaps if some of it went we'd all go.

While I don't have any specific plans for the Southern Oceans, I am replacing these for the same reason Fred did - I want it to be rock sold offshore. The angle iron on top of the 'J' hooks seems near full thickness, but is flaking some. If you peruse, DaveC's pictures a couple of his hooks looked fairly good through the fiberglass, but were worst when removed. While the boat is on the hard, and I have the time/inclination, I'm just going to do it. I think it would be as expensive to definitively check the existing as it would to replace it.

I've owned the boat for four years and she hasn't been wet yet. She'll be prepared for anything when launched [hopefully, next Summer].
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Klem
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Post by Klem »

Have you thought about going the route of measuring very carefully and not needing to set up the old rigging and the new rigging? The trigonometry isn't very hard, the hard thing is to get accurate measurements. I have done this for a few boats and if done carefully, can work quite well. The turnbuckles will give you the adjustability to deal with errors in measuring and fabrication.

Another variation of this would be to use mechanical terminals at the deck end which you do in place. You can guy the mast down with a few low stretch lines when you raise it and then take your time doing the terminals.

The problem that I see with the method that you propose is that you will need to switch the old shroud for a new shroud on one tang while you are aloft. This means guying the mast some other way while you are up there which raising the risk level.

Regarding going aloft on the hard, care is obviously in order but I wouldn't consider it overly dangerous. Just make sure that the jack stands are well adjusted and the boat isn't leaning to start with. Your mass won't create problems provided the boat is perfectly upright and you are not swinging. The issue is the extra wind resistance but this isn't a big deal provided it isn't blowing a gale. Someone goes aloft twice a year while we are on the hard to hook/unhook the triatic from the mainmast head.
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tartansailor
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?

Post by tartansailor »

Why climb the mast??
Do the calculations!!
This is high school trig.
I can't think of a simpler math problem.
Want me to do it for you?
Send me the length of your present Upper with the turnbuckle at center.
Send be the distance from the mast to the present attachment point, then
Send me the distance from the mast to the outside of the rub rail.
I will give you the length of the new upper to the rub rail.
Be sure your horizontal measurements are flush.

Dick
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Steve Laume
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Re: ?

Post by Steve Laume »

tartansailor wrote:Why climb the mast??
Do the calculations!!
This is high school trig.
I can't think of a simpler math problem.
Want me to do it for you?
Send me the length of your present Upper with the turnbuckle at center.
Send be the distance from the mast to the present attachment point, then
Send me the distance from the mast to the outside of the rub rail.
I will give you the length of the new upper to the rub rail.
Be sure your horizontal measurements are flush.

Dick
Who buys the rigging if it all doesn't fit exactly right?

It might be high school trig and that would explain why I would struggle with this approach but I would want measurements. Things don't have to be too far off to create problems and rigging isn't all that cheap.

I replaced all of mine last year and gave the rigger the old wire. I changed the fore and backstay length very slightly and that still made me nervous, Steve.
Klem
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Re: ?

Post by Klem »

Steve Laume wrote:It might be high school trig and that would explain why I would struggle with this approach but I would want measurements. Things don't have to be too far off to create problems and rigging isn't all that cheap.

I replaced all of mine last year and gave the rigger the old wire. I changed the fore and backstay length very slightly and that still made me nervous, Steve.
This is exactly why some people may choose to use swageless fittings on the deck end and leave the wire long. You can still screw it up but it is much harder to since you are making the cut in place. The other end of the shroud can be swaged or a swageless fitting, it doesn't matter.
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Russell
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Post by Russell »

Check with your yard before you climb the rig, many will not allow it while the boat is on the hard for insurance reasons.
Russell
s/v (yet to be named) Tayana 42CC
s/v Lady Pauline Cape Dory 36 #117 (for sale)
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BubbaThePirate
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Thanks, all.

Post by BubbaThePirate »

Thanks, all. I will do the trig and keep working on the plan. It will be a while but I'll try to post some pictures in 'projects' and on my blog.

Peace,
Todd
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Work When You're Broke
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