What I've pulled off appears to be 1-1/8th at the base, rub rail 1-1/8" square, Toe rail 1-1/2" high.
Spartan's mid-rail chock shows 1-1/4 at the base - I don't mind, and have the width to do the 1-1/4, but the disparity has me nervous.
I also can't tell which way the slope goes - the owners manual calls for it INSIDE the toe rail, but I would think that would make an extreme slope inside the rail, with a negative slope outside - might look funny.
Also, the manual makes the rub rail look like it should be square - no downward slope to help shed water?
TIA,
Matt
I need rub/toe rail dimensions for a CD28 ASAP
Moderator: Jim Walsh
CD28 Toe and Rub Rail
Matt,
I replaced all the toe and rub rails on a CD28 I previously owned. I spent a lot of hours trying to get some exact dimensions - my teak was SO badly worn - pretty much all the screw heads were showing.
Since I was replacing it all - I ended up just picking some dimensions and going with them.
As far as the shape - I copied the cross section shown in the manual almost exactly.
On the rub rail - I used a 4/4 board and had the lumber yard run it through belt sander - not planer - so it was actually about 15/16" deep and 1-1/4" tall - so more rectangle then square - and no slope.
On the toe rail - I cut the angle just as shown in the cross section. I think they were about 1-3/8" wide at the bottom and 1-1/4" wide at the top - 1-1/2" tall.
Everything worked out fine - no funny angle or slope.
I think these are actually a little beefier than what were there - but it looks amazing. I can send you some photos if you like.
I replaced all the toe and rub rails on a CD28 I previously owned. I spent a lot of hours trying to get some exact dimensions - my teak was SO badly worn - pretty much all the screw heads were showing.
Since I was replacing it all - I ended up just picking some dimensions and going with them.
As far as the shape - I copied the cross section shown in the manual almost exactly.
On the rub rail - I used a 4/4 board and had the lumber yard run it through belt sander - not planer - so it was actually about 15/16" deep and 1-1/4" tall - so more rectangle then square - and no slope.
On the toe rail - I cut the angle just as shown in the cross section. I think they were about 1-3/8" wide at the bottom and 1-1/4" wide at the top - 1-1/2" tall.
Everything worked out fine - no funny angle or slope.
I think these are actually a little beefier than what were there - but it looks amazing. I can send you some photos if you like.
Check out Stan Freihofer's restoration project. He discusses replacing the toe and rub rails on his CD25. He gives the dimensions which appear to be the same as yours.
www.reefroof.com/restdeck.htm
I will be replacing the same on my CD25 in the next few weeks. The plastic windows will all be replaced with bronze ports which open and have screens (from Newfound Metals).
www.reefroof.com/restdeck.htm
I will be replacing the same on my CD25 in the next few weeks. The plastic windows will all be replaced with bronze ports which open and have screens (from Newfound Metals).
John
CD25 #622
CPDE0622M78E
"You are not going to find the ideal boat. You are not even going to have it if you design it from scratch."
~ Carl Lane
CD25 #622
CPDE0622M78E
"You are not going to find the ideal boat. You are not even going to have it if you design it from scratch."
~ Carl Lane
-
sfreihofer
- Posts: 223
- Joined: Dec 6th, '07, 22:05
- Location: 1981 Cape Dory 25 #794, S/V PEARL
- Contact:
Thank you, Jepomer, for the kind mention of my efforts.
Let me add this to the discussion...
I installed the toe rails without any real problems, except be aware that there is a steel plate under the deck by the shrouds, to anchor the shrouds at the chainplate(?) fittings. To secure the toe rails in this area, drill through the steel plate and then tap it for a machine screw. The problem will be finding a tap long enough to reach down through the toe rail and into the plate. The alternative is to drill through, and use a machine screw with a washer and nut under the deck. Access, to install a nut, is the problem in that scenario. So, either way, there's a problem.
The rub rail was a real PITA, because the rail kept splitting (twice) when I attempted to get it to conform to both the curvature of the hull, and the curvature of the deck. I finally was forced to trim them down a bit (I forget how much) to allow more flexibility. The weak point was the scarf joints, even though they were as nearly perfect as I could make them, and epoxy bonded. So, beware!
Stan Freihofer
1981 CD25 #794
Ft. Lauderdale, FL
www.ReefRoof.com
Let me add this to the discussion...
I installed the toe rails without any real problems, except be aware that there is a steel plate under the deck by the shrouds, to anchor the shrouds at the chainplate(?) fittings. To secure the toe rails in this area, drill through the steel plate and then tap it for a machine screw. The problem will be finding a tap long enough to reach down through the toe rail and into the plate. The alternative is to drill through, and use a machine screw with a washer and nut under the deck. Access, to install a nut, is the problem in that scenario. So, either way, there's a problem.
The rub rail was a real PITA, because the rail kept splitting (twice) when I attempted to get it to conform to both the curvature of the hull, and the curvature of the deck. I finally was forced to trim them down a bit (I forget how much) to allow more flexibility. The weak point was the scarf joints, even though they were as nearly perfect as I could make them, and epoxy bonded. So, beware!
Stan Freihofer
1981 CD25 #794
Ft. Lauderdale, FL
www.ReefRoof.com
Instant Bubble-head. Just add water.