Rust in chain locker

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Angela and Tom
Posts: 104
Joined: Oct 11th, '05, 18:03
Location: CD28 "Annie Goldie"
prev. Typhoon "Dog Star"
Duxbury, MA

Post by Angela and Tom »

Thank you Dixon. That's just the kind of info I was looking for.

--A
John Stone
Posts: 3621
Joined: Oct 6th, '08, 07:30
Location: S/V Far Reach: CD 36 #61 www.farreachvoayges.net www.farreachvoyages.com

Post by John Stone »

Though I permanently removed the bowsprit backing plate, I used POR-15 to treat the rust that had formed on the steel "C Box" cross beam that supports the pillow block (the bearing that supports the upper part of the rudder post) on the Far Reach. There was a lot of rust on the beam. I did a fair amount of research and then talked to some folks I know that have used it and they had a lot of good things to say about it.

http://www.por15.com/

The interesting thing is the manufacturer does not want you to eliminate all the rust. Makes is a lot easier. There are explanations for how it works on the website. The $20.00 kit that I bought came with a degreaser, acid etching, rubber gloves, foam brush, etc.

After I applied three coats of POR 15 I coated it in some epoxy and painted it. I have not had a chance to test it so I can't provide a testimonial. Maybe It's all hype (it also burns fat and slices and dices tomatos)--but it seemed like something worth trying. Of course, I was willing to try it on the pillow block cross beam because I can get to it if there are signs of rust. If you go to the trouble to remove the bowsprit backing plate, you want to be darn sure it is not going to rust-out or give you problems again.

If you are interested I documented how I used the POR 15 here:


http://www.farreachvoyages.com/projects ... oject.htmlScroll down about half way till you come to the part about the rusty "C Box".

I can think of several ways I would replace the backing plate if I wanted to reinstall the same system again. I would looking in to the possibility of using 3/4" G-10 both as the backing plate and the vertical plate. I would use epoxy and biaxial to laminate them together and then cut holes at the bottom of the vertical divider and pass epoxy tape through them it from one side to the other glassing it across the stem, replicating how Cape Dory used the rebar. This is just one idea. I am sure there are other ways to do it.

In the end, you need to do it the way that you are comfortable with.
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M. R. Bober
Posts: 1122
Joined: Feb 6th, '05, 08:59
Location: CARETAKER CD28 Flybridge Trawler

Is OJ resting in your anchor locker?

Post by M. R. Bober »

Just curious about the source of the rust. :wink:

Mitchell Bober
Sunny Lancaster, (a good place to rest for a spell) VA
CDSOA Founding Member
Dixon Hemphill
Posts: 218
Joined: Aug 28th, '06, 18:38
Location: Cape Dory 28 "VASA" #144 Annapolis, MD

Reason for rust

Post by Dixon Hemphill »

Mitchell,

I suspect the reason rust forms in the chain locker is because of the moisture there caused by the wet rode that sits there in this confined space. Also the top chain locker is a place where it's difficult to view. One has to lie on his stomach in the V berth and stretch his head upwards (not easy to do) or lie on his side or back and look upward.
Within the the unlocked homes of the Swedish villages on the shores of the Baltic around the rocks sings the sea.
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