varnish removal

[rodcapedory]

Does anyone have any suggestions about using a heat gun for varnish removal or any other suggestions that have worked well. We have several larger areas of checking that we want to take off and start over with new finish.

Rod
GEMS
CE 330

[jbenagh]

Use a pull-type scraper; Sandvik makes a nice one with replaceable carbide blades. Never push the scraper or you will gouge the wood. Insulate adjacent areas with cardboard, aluminum foil and masking tape. Wear leather gloves, a mask and safety glasses if it's breezy. Keep a fire extinguisher and a bucket of water handy. Follow up with 220 grit using 100 for any tougher spots.

I highly recommend Rebecca Whitman's "Brightwork" book.

Jeff

[sharkbait]

I use a heat gun and a putty knife. Get a putty knife with the longest blade possible. I use both a 3 inch and a 1 inch depending upon the wood being stripped. Concentrate the majority of the heat on the blade of the putty knife. I hold the putty knife at about a 30 degree angle off of the wood. Once things start to soften up the heat flowing off of the blade will soften the varnish as you work forward. You can adjust the amount of heat hitting the varnish by where you position the tip of the heat gun and the angle of the heat gun to the putty knife. Use patience and you will not gouge the wood. The soft varnish will just flow off of the wood and onto the putty knife as you push the knife forward. Keep a big bucket close to wipe the stuff off of the putty knife. Done properly you will not even need a glove as the majority of the heat will flow forward and not back toward your hand.

P.S. a hair dryer will work but a multi-speed heat gun is better.

[Sea Hunt]

Rod:

I used a Milwaukee "variable heat" heat gun and GAM Precise Paint Scraper with good results. This combination took off several layers of varnish. I was then able to sand the teak smooth and prep it for Cetol.

The scraper was purchased at WM. Product information, etc. at:

http://www.gamusa.com/secure/newproducts.html

Very comfortable handle; several blade attachments to get into small areas, etc.

The heat gun was purchased at Home Depot. The variable heat adjustment was helpful.

The process was slow, at least for me, but the results were worth the time. I worked in small increments of 6"-8" at a time. Heat, scrape; heat scrape, etc.

The prior comment about not "pushing" the scraper is important. You may (will) gouge the teak.

[jim trandel]

I have found that scraping is, by far, the easiest method for both large or small varnish removal projects. The best advise on scaping is to keep the scape tool edge properly sharpened, pull with the grain and develop a skill letting the tool do the work. I use a Craftsman pull type scraper. Buy several blades, sharpen, burnish and replace them as they go dull.

Best regards,
Jim

[Jim Cornwell]

I understand from my marina manager that new zeal in enforcement of EPA standards is being "pushed out" to the states from Washington, where the marine industry is apparently considered an easier target than, say, strip miners, natural gas frackers, agribusiness or a lot of other significant despoilers I can think of. It's said that stripped / scraped / sanded varnish is on the list of pollutants that can land us in big trouble. In addition to heat gun and scraper, I'm picturing needing a vacuum to be part of the scraping routine, which means a third hand (or, realistically, a second person) for the entire job, akin to the dental assistant handling the suction. Has anyone found a clever way to deal with this? Jim.

[SurryMark]

A really hot heat gun. An ordinary Red Devil type scraper will do if you don't have carbide; just keep it sharp with a file. Some say to slightly round the blade, from side to side, so it's higher in the middle, so you don't gouge with the corners. I prefer a straight-across blade, and just being careful. Sometimes you want the finish to slightly bubble, but it may not be necessary. If you burn the wood you'll need to take a little more off to get back to color. Do a few inches at a time so it doesn't cool too much. Convex edges (like the top of a coaming) may get a little faceted from the blade, but a bit of sanding will round it nicely. 80 grit paper should flatten everything swell, then finer grades to suit.

[SPIBob]

I second Sea Hunt's suggestion to use PRECISION paint scrapers (aka cabinet scrapers). I use a heat gun on low and take my time. (That way there's no need to worry about fires, gel coat melting, explosions, etc.) Here's a link to this kind of scraper:

[url]http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merc ... 97_big.gif

[SPIBob]

http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merc ... 97_big.gif