A couple of questions about the transmission gear on 1981 CD36, hull number 052, with original engine and transmission. After purchasing Dream Catcher (formerly Sophia) about 3 years ago, I rebuilt the engine, but did not rebuild the gear as all was well then. I am having a issue with the transmission not going into forward when the engine and transmission is cold, all is well when hot. Now I am considering purchasing a new replacement gear, and carrying it with me, as I return for Florida and the Bahamas to Rhode Island this spring.
First, I beleive that the gear is a 150 model, with a nominal 2 to 1 reduction?? Some Perkins manauls suggest that it is a model 100, but based on actual physical measurements of my gear, I beleive it is a model 150. There is about 3000 hours on this gear, and after taliking to engine and gear dealers, they suggest that I am on borrowed time.
Second, after reading previous discussions on this board about the Perkins engines and gears in CD 36s, I have the impression the gear can be removed without removing the engine again. Has anyone actually done this?? It appears to me that there is not sufficient room in the keel well to slide the gear back the required 2+ inches to remove the transmission spline rome the damper plate, due to the narrowing taper of the keel well?
Thanks for the benefit of your experinece.
CD Hurth transmission of Perkins 4-108
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Transmission Replacement
Joe,
I had a similar problem with my transmission and you are on borrowed time! I would suggest you replace it soon, because if it is like mine it is not going to last much longer and you might get left in a position were you real need that engine.
On my 33 the transmission could "just" be removed without pulling the engine but in hind site the job would have gone quicker if I had just "slipped' the engine out, replaced the transmission and put it back in place. Unless you do it yourself, it will most likely run you in the neighborhood of $3,000, a rebuilt transmission will run you about $1,000 and your looking at about 20 - 24 hours of labor assuming they know what they are doing. Check with the yard that they have experience in doing this first because you don't want them learning on your boat how to replace a transmission in the tight quarters of a CD.
This is also a good time to check out your motor mounts and your exhaust elbow as they are things given the age of the boat may need to be replaced while the engine is out
Good Luck
I had a similar problem with my transmission and you are on borrowed time! I would suggest you replace it soon, because if it is like mine it is not going to last much longer and you might get left in a position were you real need that engine.
On my 33 the transmission could "just" be removed without pulling the engine but in hind site the job would have gone quicker if I had just "slipped' the engine out, replaced the transmission and put it back in place. Unless you do it yourself, it will most likely run you in the neighborhood of $3,000, a rebuilt transmission will run you about $1,000 and your looking at about 20 - 24 hours of labor assuming they know what they are doing. Check with the yard that they have experience in doing this first because you don't want them learning on your boat how to replace a transmission in the tight quarters of a CD.
This is also a good time to check out your motor mounts and your exhaust elbow as they are things given the age of the boat may need to be replaced while the engine is out
Good Luck
-
Matt Cawthorne
- Posts: 355
- Joined: Mar 2nd, '05, 17:33
- Location: CD 36, 1982
Hull # 79
Piece of cake
Ok, anything on a cd-36 is difficult when it comes to working in the engine compartment. lets just say fiberglass cake. I did it while the boat was out of the water so that I could get the prop shaft out of the way. Here is a rough list of things to do.
Remove the prop.
Remove the coupling from the isolation ring (if you have one), otherwise just remove the 4 bolts holding the coupling together.
Remove the coupling from the shaft (check posts on this) Some people have trouble with removing the coupling from the shaft, but you can create a jacking mechanism using the two halves of the coupling, a series of socket wrenches and some patience.
Slide the shaft back (not out if you are still in the water).
unbolt the transmission and slide it back. If at this point there does not appear to be room then it is time to raise the engine a few inches. You can do this by using the nuts on the engine mounts to crank the back of the engine up. In order to do that you will have to disconnect the exhaust hose.
The biggest pain in the neck here is re-aligning the engine when the new transmission is in.
One caveat is that all CD-36s are unique. I had one person tell me that replacing the starter motor was easy. On my boat it took about 18 hours of labor. I think that my engine is mounted a little lower and there is not much clearance.
Remove the prop.
Remove the coupling from the isolation ring (if you have one), otherwise just remove the 4 bolts holding the coupling together.
Remove the coupling from the shaft (check posts on this) Some people have trouble with removing the coupling from the shaft, but you can create a jacking mechanism using the two halves of the coupling, a series of socket wrenches and some patience.
Slide the shaft back (not out if you are still in the water).
unbolt the transmission and slide it back. If at this point there does not appear to be room then it is time to raise the engine a few inches. You can do this by using the nuts on the engine mounts to crank the back of the engine up. In order to do that you will have to disconnect the exhaust hose.
The biggest pain in the neck here is re-aligning the engine when the new transmission is in.
One caveat is that all CD-36s are unique. I had one person tell me that replacing the starter motor was easy. On my boat it took about 18 hours of labor. I think that my engine is mounted a little lower and there is not much clearance.