I am in the market for a Typhoon and will be looking at a couple over the next few weeks. With all the experienced owners on this board I would appreciate suggestions as to obvious things to look for re: common problem areas when I evaluate these boats. I don't have time to devote to a project boat so need to find one in pretty good shape. thanks in advance for your advice, Jim C.
ps - I am looking in the Mid-Atlantic area. If you are considering selling yours I would be glad to hear from you!
buying typhoon - what to look for?
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Sea Hunt
- Posts: 1310
- Joined: Jan 29th, '06, 23:14
- Location: Former caretaker of 1977 Cape Dory Typhoon Weekender (Hull #1400) "S/V Tadpole"
Hello Jim:
I am sure others with a lot more experience and expertise than I will shortly jump in with suggestions, comments, etc.
In the interim, I would offer the following observations.
There is always a lot of discussion about "deck compression" on Cape Dory Typhoon Weekenders. It is apparently caused by a lack of a bulkhead near the mast/tabernacle and tightening the shrouds too much. If "deck compression" is present, some have fixed the problem by installing a "compression post" in the cabin area below the mast/tabernacle. If permanently installed it prevents installation of a small porta potty.
A related issue is the chainplates. It is very difficult to inspect the attachment area of the chainplates to the hull/deck area. There should be two (2) access panels inside the cabin which, with the use of a mirror and light can offer a limited view. Checking the deck area around the chainplates is also important.
There are many excellent threads on this board concerning Typhoon Weekenders and their maintenance, repair, etc. For the above two issues if you access the "search" button and type in the words "deck compression Typhoon" you will find many threads that address these and other related issues.
All of the above being said, I very much miss my Typhoon Weekender, S/V Tadpole. I am actively searching for a Cape Dory 25D but made the mistake of selling S/V Tadpole before acquiring custody of a Cape Dory 25D. This winter in South Florida has been one of the very best sailing seasons in many, many years - at least according to the experienced sailors at the sailing club. S/V Tadpole would have enjoyed herself. My loss.
I am sure others with a lot more experience and expertise than I will shortly jump in with suggestions, comments, etc.
In the interim, I would offer the following observations.
There is always a lot of discussion about "deck compression" on Cape Dory Typhoon Weekenders. It is apparently caused by a lack of a bulkhead near the mast/tabernacle and tightening the shrouds too much. If "deck compression" is present, some have fixed the problem by installing a "compression post" in the cabin area below the mast/tabernacle. If permanently installed it prevents installation of a small porta potty.
A related issue is the chainplates. It is very difficult to inspect the attachment area of the chainplates to the hull/deck area. There should be two (2) access panels inside the cabin which, with the use of a mirror and light can offer a limited view. Checking the deck area around the chainplates is also important.
There are many excellent threads on this board concerning Typhoon Weekenders and their maintenance, repair, etc. For the above two issues if you access the "search" button and type in the words "deck compression Typhoon" you will find many threads that address these and other related issues.
All of the above being said, I very much miss my Typhoon Weekender, S/V Tadpole. I am actively searching for a Cape Dory 25D but made the mistake of selling S/V Tadpole before acquiring custody of a Cape Dory 25D. This winter in South Florida has been one of the very best sailing seasons in many, many years - at least according to the experienced sailors at the sailing club. S/V Tadpole would have enjoyed herself. My loss.
Fair winds,
Robert
Sea Hunt a/k/a "The Tadpole Sailor"
CDSOA #1097
Robert
Sea Hunt a/k/a "The Tadpole Sailor"
CDSOA #1097
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Oswego John
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
What To Look For
I would like to add something to the excellent advice that the Tadpole Sailor gave. My $.02 is kind of basic info and maybe not worthy of mention. Anyhoo....
I had occasion to help a guy with a sunken roof deck. He couldn't figure out what his problem was. He measured carefully and constructed a compression post. He did a real, fine job of it. Just one little problem, he didn't raise the roof to normal before setting the compression post.
It is possible to jack the deck up with the mast in place. Just make sure that there is plenty of slack in the stays and shrouds before attempting to elevate the deck.
Without going into detail at this time, you can jack the deck up from inside if the indent isn't too much. I jack it a little bit at a time, maybe a 1/4" and let it set for a bit to readjust. How long is a bit? I don't know so please don't ask. A bit is just a bit. After a bit, jack it up another 1/4" or so until you have a crown in the deck. Don't be too alarmed if you hear the deck "pop" to its normal position.
To quick check for what Robert (Tadpole Sailor) was mentioning, I use two methods. The simplest is to lay a straight edged piece of wood, or whatever, across the roof of the cuddy cabin, adjacent to the mast position. The center of the convexed arced roof should be approximately 3/4" higher than the edges. If the roof is flat or concaved, the boat definitely needs a compression post.
There is another quick check. Look at the stay and shroud turnbuckles. If they are made up short as much as possible, there is a good reason to look farther. When the roof compresses, the bottom of the mast drops with it. The lowered mast allows slop in the shrouds and stays. To try to overcome this slop, the owner makes up on the turnbuckles to the max but in cases of deep indentation, the turnbuckles can't adjust enough to take the slack out of the standing rigging. Hence, an untuned boat.
As stated earlier, there are at least two methods I use to raise a compressed roof to its proper position. Jacking from the inside is the easiest and quickest method. When dealing with severe compression, most times the roof can be pulled up from the outside. I helped another guy with a brand X who jacked his roof up and in so doing,he opened up his hull to deck joint. When you pull the roof, this won't happen.
Good luck,
O J
I had occasion to help a guy with a sunken roof deck. He couldn't figure out what his problem was. He measured carefully and constructed a compression post. He did a real, fine job of it. Just one little problem, he didn't raise the roof to normal before setting the compression post.
It is possible to jack the deck up with the mast in place. Just make sure that there is plenty of slack in the stays and shrouds before attempting to elevate the deck.
Without going into detail at this time, you can jack the deck up from inside if the indent isn't too much. I jack it a little bit at a time, maybe a 1/4" and let it set for a bit to readjust. How long is a bit? I don't know so please don't ask. A bit is just a bit. After a bit, jack it up another 1/4" or so until you have a crown in the deck. Don't be too alarmed if you hear the deck "pop" to its normal position.
To quick check for what Robert (Tadpole Sailor) was mentioning, I use two methods. The simplest is to lay a straight edged piece of wood, or whatever, across the roof of the cuddy cabin, adjacent to the mast position. The center of the convexed arced roof should be approximately 3/4" higher than the edges. If the roof is flat or concaved, the boat definitely needs a compression post.
There is another quick check. Look at the stay and shroud turnbuckles. If they are made up short as much as possible, there is a good reason to look farther. When the roof compresses, the bottom of the mast drops with it. The lowered mast allows slop in the shrouds and stays. To try to overcome this slop, the owner makes up on the turnbuckles to the max but in cases of deep indentation, the turnbuckles can't adjust enough to take the slack out of the standing rigging. Hence, an untuned boat.
As stated earlier, there are at least two methods I use to raise a compressed roof to its proper position. Jacking from the inside is the easiest and quickest method. When dealing with severe compression, most times the roof can be pulled up from the outside. I helped another guy with a brand X who jacked his roof up and in so doing,he opened up his hull to deck joint. When you pull the roof, this won't happen.
Good luck,
O J
"If I rest, I rust"
Voting Member #490
Voting Member #490
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Oswego John
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Checking Out A TY
Also, take a long, hard look at the overall condition of the rudder.
O J
O J
"If I rest, I rust"
Voting Member #490
Voting Member #490
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jim trandel
- Posts: 57
- Joined: Oct 13th, '09, 10:10
- Location: '83 Typhoon Weekender, #1907 "Second Wind" Chicago Monroe Harbor
I purchased my Typhoon in Nov '09. Last season was my first and I am well satisfied with the boat's look and performance. When I purchased the boat, I had a checklist that took in all items including the hull, rigging, sails, motor and trailer. You can find many such checklists and books on the subject. I would advise that you give yourself and the seller ample time to go over each item and allow some $ negotiation in the sale if the goods are substandard. But remember that the boat is nearly 30 years old and will have some ware.
and tare
The items I replaced are rigging, sails and tires on the trailer. I am now looking at my second season and have no remorse on my purchase.
Best regards,
Jim
and tare
The items I replaced are rigging, sails and tires on the trailer. I am now looking at my second season and have no remorse on my purchase.
Best regards,
Jim