seacocks

jerryaxler · Post by **jerryaxler** » Mar 5th, '11, 19:06

New rule

The boat builders must service 100 seacocks on their own design before selling to the public. I love my CD, but I hate servicing the seacocks, especially in the head and scuppers. Sorry to disturb the group but I had to scream somewhere.

Steve Laume · Post by **Steve Laume** » Mar 5th, '11, 22:05

Part of my battery relocation project was cutting away enough of the old shelf to be able to access the cockpit seacock. It still isn't easy but at least it is doable.

I feel your pain, Steve.

bottomscraper · Post by **bottomscraper** » Mar 6th, '11, 12:16

Not may favorite job! I have found that the port side cockpit
drain and holding tank pumpout are best done by removing
the access panel between the port locker and engine. I make
sure I have all the tools and supplies within easy reach and step
into the port locker facing inboard. I work my legs into the engine
compartment and sort of lie on my side. Each year I make a
resolution to drop about 25lbs before I do it again! I try to get
them all done in the fall rather than wait for spring, I hate having
that job hanging over my head.

Bill Starck · Post by **Bill Starck** » Mar 6th, '11, 18:32

The 2 seacocks in the port locker on a 36 are the most difficult to access. Not too many years ago, I could slip down the hatch and service them with little problem. Now, I'm unable to slide down from the cockpit. I even tried taking off my shirt but even grease on my chest didn't help. I now ask my grandson to do it. I think the hatch opening shrunk.

Dean Abramson · Post by **Dean Abramson** » Mar 6th, '11, 22:56

You simply have not lived until you have serviced the seacock inside the hanging locker on the CD31.

Bob Brown · Post by **Bob Brown** » Mar 6th, '11, 23:22

How long do the spartan marine seacocks usually last? My engine is out because the bed is being replaced. The yard suggested I replace the two seacocks for the cockpit drains while they are easily accessible. I serviced them last year, one had moderate to heavy pitting on the barrel. It didn't leak before or after servicing.

valenteach · Post by **valenteach** » Mar 6th, '11, 23:52

I would be interested to find out if slight pitting in an older Spartan sea-cock drum could lead to it cracking, or if anyone has heard of one cracking. I was under the impression they were hearty things even with old age. I believe there is a compound that you can use in the sea-cocks that will burnish small pits from the drum, details on the Spartan website. But I would absolutely recommend changing the backing blocks on them and re-bedding them, even if you stay with the existing sea-cocks. Those backing blocks will crack before the bronze does that's for sure. Maybe when you have them out and are prepping the backing blocks, you can get a good inspection of them.

-Mike Rejto
CD24T Viola

Russell · Post by **Russell** » Mar 7th, '11, 03:25

I certainly agree about the 2 seacocks in the port cockpit locker on the CD36, everytime I haul I service all of them, if they need it or not, and I always tend to put those 2 off to the last minute.

As for difficulty in servicing in general, I think the spartan seacocks are easier then modern style seacocks used in most new boats (ease of access aside).

Longevity of spartan seasocks probably has a lot of factors that would be hard to give a good number. All but one of my seacocks are origonal and 25 years old now.

The one replaced was the engine seacock, done by the previous owner, but I have no idea why (I just have the receipt for the seacock in my boat documents).

Of the rest, one seems like I might want to replace it soonish. Its like its been lapped one time too many and is getting to the point where the barrel sits too deeply and just a tad deeper and the washer wont seal it anymore. Though I suspect this is not due to overlapping (wow that would take a LOT) but more likely one time servicing seasocks I mixed up barrels and installed the wrong one in the wrong seacock base. I am not about to go play mix and match with all of them to discover that though. Anyway, its possible need for replacement has nothing to do with age I beleive. I see no reason my seacocks wont last another 25 years properly maintained and keeping up on zincs.

rtbates · Post by **rtbates** » Mar 7th, '11, 10:48

Bob Brown wrote:How long do the spartan marine seacocks usually last? My engine is out because the bed is being replaced. The yard suggested I replace the two seacocks for the cockpit drains while they are easily accessible. I serviced them last year, one had moderate to heavy pitting on the barrel. It didn't leak before or after servicing.

with PROPER care and maintenance forever....

gates_cliff · Post by **gates_cliff** » Mar 7th, '11, 14:02

Oh age, why hast thou foresaken me?

Well, I have been putting off doing this job and just don't have any more excuses, unless we get winter storm.

I have never done them before, I know, I know it's been 2 years since I bought the boat. Please don't throw things at me, I feel stupid enough as it is.

I ordered the sevice kit from Spartan Marine and have it on hand. Would someone please, and be gentle with me as this is my first time, go over the steps necessary? Please leave out the need to ingest spirits, I'm barely able to funciton sober and can't imagine what life would be like if my less than lucid mind was lubricated with "demon rum".

jerryaxler · Post by **jerryaxler** » Mar 7th, '11, 14:49

Except for the difficulty in reaching the damn thing, it is actually a simple job. The only problem you might have is loosening the body and you CANNOT strike the handle too forcibly or you can distort or destroy the handle. I have removed the handle in the past and jury rigged a handle that I could tap more strongly. If you have to get to that point, you will need to use a lapping compound to resurface the body before greasing with a waterproof grease and reinstalling.

Dean Abramson · Post by **Dean Abramson** » Mar 7th, '11, 15:16

Having the Spartan seacock wrench makes the job much, much, much easier.

Access is the main issue. The job itself is very simple. But you have to hold one nut while loosening/tightening the other. The Spartan wrench is the only thing I have found thin enough to work well. I used to use a ground-down regular wrench, but it was a Mickey Mouse deal.

Do not swap one barrel for another; put it back in the same seacock. There is a flat surface on the one big washer, make sure it mates with the flat surface on the projecting part of the barrel.

And for any real newbies: this is an out-of-the-water job.

Okay, I have done it in the water, and it is not a super big deal IF you have good access and can act very quickly and surely. (Still, you will get a fair amount of water into the boat.) And you need a buddy. When we did it, I pulled the barrel out, quickly handed it to my buddy Rich, then stuffed rags in the holes and held them there while Rich rapidly cleaned and greased the barrel. Then we reversed the chaotic part. No mid-job coffee breaks are allowed. It is not a technique I would recommend to the first-timer or the faint of heart.

Dean

sgbernd · Post by **sgbernd** » Mar 7th, '11, 17:04

I did it, as a newbie, as the seacocks were frozen when I purchased the boat, and had one of those "boating adventures".

It was over a Thanksgiving weekend, and after removing the lock nut and barrel, the sealing nut and washer both made a successful run for the bilge where they vanished beneath the murky bilge water. A rag reduced the now open sea cock to a steady stream, but I had no way to retrieve the missing parts, couldn't see them beneath the bilge water, the local boat yard was closed (holiday), nearest hardware store was 10 miles away and likely closed, and I couldn't leave for more than about 30 minutes before she needed pumping again. It is amazing how fast the water tries to get in.

I couldn't leave the boat for fear it would get water over the floorboards, and couldn't stop the leak. And I couldn't even replace the barrel as it was angled down so the barrel just tried to slip out without the retaining hardware. I rummaged around the marina trash, and found a clothing hanger from which I fashioned into a hook and after about an hour of fishing, finally retrieved the wayward pieces. All said, it was a very stressful and unpleasant afternoon and I determined to leave the remaining sea cocks until I hauled her. I also added a flashlight and baling wire to my tool kit.

Steve Laume · Post by **Steve Laume** » Mar 7th, '11, 19:56

Being cheap and resourceful, I ground the cheeks off of an open end wrench and then sprayed it with cold galvanizing. It has been working great for years.

If you have a stuck seacock go easy. Some PB Blaster and time are your friends. When you do apply force, it should be to turn the handle not to drive out the barrel. As soon as it breaks loose all is well.

The first time I did my seacocks I wrapped the handles with duct tape and used permanent maker to label them all. It seemed like a great idea until I washed them in whatever it was that took off the maker. It took forever to match up all the seacocks and I am still not sure I got them right.

What I did after that was to take a lettering punch set and label them all by stamping an abbreviation of their location on each handle. now I can take them all out and wash them in solvent with no worries about getting them back in the right place.

The first time I ever did them, my biggest worry was how tight they should be. The things are pretty amazing. They can be loose enough to fall close and still not leak. I set the one up on my head to work that way. The engine seawater intake gets a loose fitting wire tie over it every time just to be sure it can never close on it's own.

As ancient as this design seems to be, it is at least as fool proof, Steve.

Johnd · Post by **Johnd** » Mar 8th, '11, 01:30

Do the seacocks need to be serviced every year?

John d

The Cape Dory Board

seacocks

seacocks

Try it one-handed

Seacocks

sea cocks

I concur, newbies should not try it in the water.

Newb here