I have a couple of questions about the engine in my 25D.
First, the warning buzzer on the instrument panel "peeps" every 25 seconds or so when the engine is running. It's just a short, sharp chirp, not the loud scream you get when you first turn on the ignition switch. Is this normal? Or is it trying to tell me something? There don't seem to be any harmful effects. It's been doing this for the past 200 running hours. But I'd just like to know if other 1GM10s also do it. And if not, what might be wrong with mine.
Second, I had a three-stage regulator installed a few months ago, and ever since, the red ignition warning light on the instrument panel stays on all the time the engine is running. It never did that with the old regulator.
I suspect the wiring has changed somehow. Has anyone else experienced this phenomenon? Is it a problem I should be worrying about? If so, does anyone have any idea how I solve it?
I'd be grateful for any help.
Cheers,
John Vigor
CD25D "Jabula"
jvig@whidbey.net
Yanmar 1GM10 queries
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Re: Yanmar 1GM10 queries
John:john vigor wrote: I have a couple of questions about the engine in my 25D.
First, the warning buzzer on the instrument panel "peeps" every 25 seconds or so when the engine is running. It's just a short, sharp chirp, not the loud scream you get when you first turn on the ignition switch. Is this normal? Or is it trying to tell me something? There don't seem to be any harmful effects. It's been doing this for the past 200 running hours. But I'd just like to know if other 1GM10s also do it. And if not, what might be wrong with mine.
Second, I had a three-stage regulator installed a few months ago, and ever since, the red ignition warning light on the instrument panel stays on all the time the engine is running. It never did that with the old regulator.
I suspect the wiring has changed somehow. Has anyone else experienced this phenomenon? Is it a problem I should be worrying about? If so, does anyone have any idea how I solve it?
I'd be grateful for any help.
Cheers,
John Vigor
CD25D "Jabula"
While investigating upgrades for my alternator and regulator system I have noted that the wiring that goes to the annunciator gnerally needs to be modified from the factory setup, depending on how the new regulator (or alternator) gets connected. I suspect the ignition light is on all the time because the field sensor is not energized, or the exciter wire is not connected, or both. This may mean you are not charging at all, so I would check that ASAP.
With my present stock 2GM system, I usually have to gun the engine a bit to get the horn to go off. Then it will stay off under low RPM. I take this as a sign my current regulator or alternator are "tired" but haven't done any scientific measuring of voltages or currents.
To get to the bottom of this, you need to go back to the installer, or find someone knowledgable, or do the following yourself:
1. get and read the suggested wiring diagram and instructions for the new regulator
2. compare to the wiring diagram in your Yanmar manual
3. check all cables fuses and wires for continuity and then voltage and current delivery under load
4. talk with the manufacturer; sometimes they have field notes for various engine types
Are you using the stock 60 amp alternator with the new regulator? This may not last in the long haul as the stock regulators were not designed for the constant high amperage loads a modern regulator imposes.
cyahrlin@cisco.com
Re: Yanmar 1GM10 queries
Thanks for the advice, Chuck.
The alternator is definitely charging, no doubt about that. It's the standard 35-amp OEM (Mitsubishi, I think), working with two Group 24 batteries of about 85 amp-hours each, and the regulator is programmed to put out full amperage for two hours, and then taper off unless there is a draw from the house system.
My horn doesn't sound for non-charging, only for low oil pressure and overheating. The only warning about non-charging is the red light (which is now on all the time, as I mentioned before, even though the system is charging).
jvig@whidbey.net
The alternator is definitely charging, no doubt about that. It's the standard 35-amp OEM (Mitsubishi, I think), working with two Group 24 batteries of about 85 amp-hours each, and the regulator is programmed to put out full amperage for two hours, and then taper off unless there is a draw from the house system.
My horn doesn't sound for non-charging, only for low oil pressure and overheating. The only warning about non-charging is the red light (which is now on all the time, as I mentioned before, even though the system is charging).
jvig@whidbey.net