Folks... in 1999 I bought an e-meter Link 10 to monitor my house battery bank. It has stopped displaying data. I know the right amount of current -from the batteries- is getting to the instrument, because the electrician checked this out with his meter. My batteries are fully charged as showing in the original CapeDory panel, but the Link is very erratic, I can not reset it; all fuses are in good condition. Sometimes, all 4 green lights go on, but no data shows up on the small display screen; the V -for volts- is constantly blinking. Has anybody any experience with this type of instrument? Anybody with similar problems? It is 12 years old, but should it just die of old age after only 12 years?
I went to the web to check, only to find out that Xantrex has discontinued the Link 10. Is there any other alternative for this type of smart volt meter? When I left the boat today the Link was refusing to turn on at all. It is a great little unit for monitoring the housebank and I would hate to be without one. But I guess it is not around any more. Any suggestions? Thanx.
DEAD E-METER LINK 10 - HELP!
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Zeida
- Posts: 600
- Joined: May 27th, '05, 07:10
- Location: 1982 CD33 "Bandolera II" Hull #73Key Biscayne-Miami, Florida
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DEAD E-METER LINK 10 - HELP!
Zeida
CDSOA Member
CDSOA Member
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Maine_Buzzard
- Posts: 506
- Joined: Dec 22nd, '10, 21:15
- Location: Feet Dry, Olympia, WA
We used the Link 10 meters for an electric car project at a local high school about the time you purchased yours.
Honestly, you got very good value for ten years. We had to keep a spare around as the 84V battery stack would fry a meter instantly.
Probably ate 3 or 4. We had kids doing all the work, so it was taken in stride.
Honestly, you got very good value for ten years. We had to keep a spare around as the 84V battery stack would fry a meter instantly.
Probably ate 3 or 4. We had kids doing all the work, so it was taken in stride.
James
link 10
I have a link 10. Try re - booting it. At the battery positive terminal there should be two fused wires, a red wire and a blue wire. (Remove the fuse from the red wire, then from the blue wire) The order that you connect these wires makes a difference in the power up, power down.
Reattach the blue wire fuse first, then the red wire fuse. Connect these fuses in a "smooth motion. A ragged power up may cause a meter lock."
Then recharge your batteries. Perhaps that will help.
Brian
Reattach the blue wire fuse first, then the red wire fuse. Connect these fuses in a "smooth motion. A ragged power up may cause a meter lock."
Then recharge your batteries. Perhaps that will help.
Brian
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Maine Sail
- Posts: 839
- Joined: Feb 8th, '06, 18:30
- Location: Canadian Sailcraft 36T
Zeida,
The Cruising Equipment, Heart Interface and finally Xantrex Link 10 was a good unit for its day. They were however fairly buggy and I am surprised to see you got 12 years out of yours.
The new Xantrex Link-Lite is a good replacement for it. Your existing shunt and wiring will work with it and all you need to do is replace the meter. The new Link-Lite is built by TBS Electronics in the Netherlands and they are far more reliable and less "buggy" than the original Cruisng Equipment products were.
If you want short money and don't mind replacing the shunt and wiring the Victron BMV-600 from Jamestown Distributors is only $158.10..
The Cruising Equipment, Heart Interface and finally Xantrex Link 10 was a good unit for its day. They were however fairly buggy and I am surprised to see you got 12 years out of yours.
The new Xantrex Link-Lite is a good replacement for it. Your existing shunt and wiring will work with it and all you need to do is replace the meter. The new Link-Lite is built by TBS Electronics in the Netherlands and they are far more reliable and less "buggy" than the original Cruisng Equipment products were.
If you want short money and don't mind replacing the shunt and wiring the Victron BMV-600 from Jamestown Distributors is only $158.10..
Zeida,
I agree that it is worth one more go. My Link 10 was erratic last year (after 8 years flawless service) when I opened up the boat for spring fitting out. I checked the batteries which I had hooked up to a solar panel and regulator all winter and they were fine. I had installed it so I pulled it out and disconnected from the battery at the back of the unit then went and had a mental cigarette. I re hooked it up and it was once again fine. I did look at the manual but do not remember anything significant order of wire attachment in the method used. Good luck and let me know how it goes.
I agree that it is worth one more go. My Link 10 was erratic last year (after 8 years flawless service) when I opened up the boat for spring fitting out. I checked the batteries which I had hooked up to a solar panel and regulator all winter and they were fine. I had installed it so I pulled it out and disconnected from the battery at the back of the unit then went and had a mental cigarette. I re hooked it up and it was once again fine. I did look at the manual but do not remember anything significant order of wire attachment in the method used. Good luck and let me know how it goes.
Paul
CDSOA Member
CDSOA Member
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Maine Sail
- Posts: 839
- Joined: Feb 8th, '06, 18:30
- Location: Canadian Sailcraft 36T
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Johnlindac
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Feb 19th, '11, 12:14
- Location: CD33 Silhouette, Cohasset, MA
Link 10
I have had a link 10 on my CD33 and it is a great electronic monitor.
My first one lasted approx 10 yrs and became erratic and not dependable. I replaced it with the Link Lite purchased from and installed by Ham Ferris while in Red Brook Harbor MA in July 2009.
The Link Lite monitors both my ships bank and my starting battery.
Ham Ferris may not be the least expensive but his knowledge of boat electronics is the very best. Suggest you visit his web site at www.hamiltonferris.com He has helped me many times over the last 12 years.
John Campbell
Silhouette
My first one lasted approx 10 yrs and became erratic and not dependable. I replaced it with the Link Lite purchased from and installed by Ham Ferris while in Red Brook Harbor MA in July 2009.
The Link Lite monitors both my ships bank and my starting battery.
Ham Ferris may not be the least expensive but his knowledge of boat electronics is the very best. Suggest you visit his web site at www.hamiltonferris.com He has helped me many times over the last 12 years.
John Campbell
Silhouette
Now I'm Confused
Having read Maine Sail's well illustrated description of the installation of the Victron monitor, I went to their website and viewed the installation diagram for their BMV-602s. Victron's diagram shows the ground wire for the SECOND battery bank connected to the LOAD side of the shunt. What am I missing here?
My house bank consists of two group 31 batteries connected to a selector switch. The selector switch allows me to keep the batteries separate when charging, and keeps them from equalizing each other. I can use them either one at a time, or paralleled.
I'm not really concerned about monitoring my starting battery and hence wouldn't buy the 602s, , but I'm trying to figure out how I would connect the two ground wire(s) of my house bank to a shunt..........? And if I chose to use the batteries in parallel, I'm guessing I wouldn't really see information telling me about the true state of either battery......?
Obviously, I'm not an electrical engineer.
My house bank consists of two group 31 batteries connected to a selector switch. The selector switch allows me to keep the batteries separate when charging, and keeps them from equalizing each other. I can use them either one at a time, or paralleled.
I'm not really concerned about monitoring my starting battery and hence wouldn't buy the 602s, , but I'm trying to figure out how I would connect the two ground wire(s) of my house bank to a shunt..........? And if I chose to use the batteries in parallel, I'm guessing I wouldn't really see information telling me about the true state of either battery......?
Obviously, I'm not an electrical engineer.
Kevin L.