DE-winterizing

[12Sail]

I searched for this topic but didn't find anything so I hope you all can help me. I had my CD31 with Universal diesel winterized in November, but for spring re-launch, do we just start the engine normally? Will the antifreeze work itself out of the system and into the water through the exhaust? Also wondering about head and freshwater systems (this is my first winterization) and flushing the taste/odor from the fresh water tanks.
I've been on boat sites, youtube, searched all over, and just can't seem to find an answer to this "what now?" question. Thanks all.

[Invictus]

ENGINE: That is what I usually do with the engine. If you didn't winterize it yourself, make sure the water pump impeller is in correctly and the cover is on; some people pull the impeller for the winter. Also check your belt tension as some manuals recommend loosening the belt for the winter.

FW: I usually fill it up 1x and flush the FW System. Then I add some bleach and fill it 1/2-way and agitate the boat (rock the boat) and flush again. Finally I flush with straight FW at least 2x.

Head: Frankly, I pump it out at the end of the season. The only thing in it is a little FW and anti-freeze. I usually don't worry about it, I'm not sure if this is correct or not?!?! Never had an issue...

Also, don't forget to check you batteries, packing, and thru-hulls. I always service at end of season and beginning on next.

[Paul D.]

I have a Universal Diesel. For spring launch I re install the impeller, work (or grease every two years or so) the intake seacock, double check anti freeze and oil then start up. Allah willing, everything works. I must admit, when the old girl turns over life is sweet.

You may wish to make sure the pencil zinc on the exchanger is snugged. It would be worth a call to the guy who winterized it to see their method and make sure you cover everything.

I also re pack the stuffing box every two years. And some other things I cannot recall at the moment. In general, if everything works and I wish to ignore my teak, I can cut the shrinkwrap, lunch and sail in two days. But notice the word "ignore" in there.

Good luck, it will be another three months for us up here till splash time.

[Carl Thunberg]

I don't have a lot to add to what the others have suggested about the engine. Steve Laume, a regular contributor to this Board, suggests using a Shop Vac to suck out any remaining antifreeze from the fresh water tanks. In that way, you will only have a trace amount from the tanks to flush through the pump. I tried it and it works great.

There are a couple things to watch for if you weren't the one who winterized your pressurized water system. If you have a water heater, they probably dis-connected the hoses. You'll need to re-connect them. Make sure you flip the pressure relief valve handle up, or your water heater will take a long time to fill. The shower head may have been dis-assembled, too. Apart from that, flush plenty of fresh water through your pressurized water system to get rid of the RV anti-freeze.

Some (not all) heads have a drain plug in the bronze tee fitting at the base of the head. Check to see if you have one and make sure it's been re-installed, or you'll have quite a surprise on your first flush. You shouldn't have to look too hard. It's in a very conspicuous location.

Finally, think seriously about winterizing your boat yourself next year. It's really not hard. Go system by system and be organized. None of this stuff is rocket science.

[John Danicic]

I don't have a lot to add to what the others have suggested about the engine. Steve Laume, a regular contributor to this Board, suggests using a Shop Vac to suck out any remaining antifreeze from the fresh water tanks. In that way, you will only have a trace amount from the tanks to flush through the pump. I tried it and it works great.

Let me add to Carl's shop vac suggestion. Vacuum out the water tanks and then add a gallon or so of water to each tank and pump that through the system until it is gone. Do it twice and the only pink water you will encounter will be from the hot water tank.

Recommissioning should also include greasing up the seacocks as well.

Sail on

John Danicic

CD36 - Mariah- #124
Lake Superior- The Apostle Islands
CDSOA #655

[12Sail]

Thanks to all....good common sense steps. I do intend to learn all this and winterize her myself (to avoid this year's problem of the "guy who did it left town").

[Sea Hunt]

Another good source of some basic "check list" things to do can often be found in sailing magazines. Every Spring most sailing magazines have an article on "commissioning"; every Fall they have an article on "decommissioning".

For example, in the March 2001 issue of Blue Water Sailing magazine there is a short article on commissioning an engine. The article contains a list of things to check, etc.

In the February 2011 issue of Sailing magazine there is a four (4) page article on commissioning including a "Fitting Out Checklist" for engine, electrical, water system, rigging, safety, etc. You can use this "checklist" as a starter list and add to it as your particular requirements dictate.

In the same February 2011 issue of Sailing magazine there is also an article on servicing winches with several close up pictures.

[12Sail]

Thanks SeaHunt; another great suggestion. I'll dig through my old copies and surely find same. Confidence comes from many sources. Hey Paul, nice article in Good Old Boat this month!