1gm water pump drip

[frankfurder]

My last two trips to the boat have indicated significant bilgewater, and when I went by last week, I noticed a drip from the cooling water pump, right behind the impeller.

I had drained the water from the cylinder head which is my usual preparation for cold weather (in Texas) but due to some lows in the 20's I am wondering if some freeze damage resulted in the slow drip?

Previous posts have discussed pump replacement but I am wondering what is the likelyhood of pump damage or leaking gasket?

Also, is water pump removal much more difficult than the impeller cover?

[rtbates]

First you need to determine where it's leaking.. My guess is the weep hole, hence your shaft seal is leaking... My suggestion is to do what I did, and buy a new pump and keep the current one ,as is, as a backup...

Also watch those external oil lines under the pump for pin holes. A leak in these lines can ruin your whole day not to mention your 1GM...

Pump replacement is quite easy...

[Joe Myerson]

Frank,

I had a leaking water pump, apparently for several seasons. The steady drip, drip, drip, though slow, apparently contributed to the eventual corrosion of one of the oil delivery tubes.

Last summer the leak became more pronounced, and this fall I replaced the pump. It's an easy enough repair, and I'd recommend it before you find your delivery tube rusting out. THAT, and the resulting cleanup, is not a simple (or inexpensive) fix.

Good luck!

--Joe

[barfwinkle]

I echo Joe and Randy's advice. I had the same issue and the fix was pretty straight forward and cheaper than new oil lines and any subsequent repairs a ruptured oil line might cause.

Fair Winds

[frankfurder]

Thanks for the advice guys, sounds like a routine fix.
If the water pump shaft is leaking, then I guess a new pump is required, not just a gasket?

Second, who ships Yanmar parts to Texas? Marine Diesel direct apparently does not, nor does Torreson.

Current water pump price is $167.

[Joe Myerson]

Hi Frank,

You might look up Niemec Marine in New Bedford, MA. They're right across Buzzards Bay from me, but I know they ship as far south as South Carolina.

I'm not sure about Texas, but they're very responsive folks. Call 'em, and if they can't ship to you, they'll tell you who can.

BTW, I'm told if you have time, some minimal skill and an arbor press, you can replace the bearing. However, when I had my impeller replaced last summer, the boatyard mechanic suggested it would be better in the long run to replace the whole pump.

Good Luck,

--Joe

[Joe Myerson]

Frank,

I'm afraid Niemec does not ship Yanmar parts to Texas. Nor does Torressen Marine. Perhaps you need to check the Yanmar website? Or check with Randy Bates.

--Joe

[rtbates]

http://www.yanmarmarine.com/index.cfm/go/Distributors/

I got all my repair parts from Laborde...

[frankfurder]

Looking at the engine manual, it looks like the crankshaft pully must be removed to get the water pump out on the 1gm?

Havent done that before, is it straigtforward with the right pully pulling tool?

Does a new water pump come with all the shaft and bearings as a complete unit, or do you have to reuse some of the parts?

Sorry for all the questions, but that is what is great about this board!

[sharkbait]

You can get your Yanmar parts from Gatewood in Rockport.

[Steve Laume]

this thread seems crazy. I can't believe a company would have any restrictions on domestic shipping of parts. Texas hasn't gone and succeeded without my hearing about it have they? What would happen if you were out of the country and needed parts?

If you want to order the part and have it shipped to Texas you could have it sent to my house and I would forward it to you for the price of the additional postage. I am sure there are others on this board that would make this same offer.

In this day of ultra fast door to door delivery it seems crazy that you can't get the part shipped, Steve.

[Joe Myerson]

Steve,

I know it seems crazy, but if you look on the website for various Yanmar distributors, you'll see that they have "exclusive" territories outside of which they will not ship parts.

Fore some reason, for example, Torressen, Mack Boring and Niemec Marine will ship to the Northeast, Midwest and even Southeast, but not to the Southwest, or Far West.

Go figure.

--Joe

[Invictus]

Looking at the engine manual, it looks like the crankshaft pully must be removed to get the water pump out on the 1gm?

Havent done that before, is it straigtforward with the right pully pulling tool?

Does a new water pump come with all the shaft and bearings as a complete unit, or do you have to reuse some of the parts?

Sorry for all the questions, but that is what is great about this board!

I replaced mine last summer. There was no need to pull the pulley, although it was tedious work getting the upper left (starboard) bolt out...a lot of turning it 1/6th of a turn at a time with a 10mm combination wench (I could be wrong about wrench size). Regardless, I think it was easier than removing the pulley. Good luck!

[Bruce Barber]

The easy way to remove the pump is to use a socket on a wrench with a 3-inch or so extension. Remove the two hoses and you'll have a straight shot at each of the three bolt heads. Take out the bolts, pull out the pump. No tedium. When you reinstall it, you may have to rotate it a bit until the pump mates with the shaft that turns it. Then it'll click into place.

[Sandy D.]

Hi Frank,
I have a YSE8 in my CD27. I developed a leak in the shaft seal on my water pump a few years back.

A new pump was over 360 bucks. New seals, gaskets, and a new shaft for the pump were less than 100. I was able to replace all in less than thirty minutes, it was a very easy job. Nothing on the housing can wear out ( at least in my case ) so it might be worth comparing cost.

-Sandy