I am considering adding a tiller autohelm to our CD28. I would appriciate any dicussion, dialogue, comments, etc. I hav searched the archives, but stll hav a few questions please:
1. any thoughts on wich brand?
2. wich model is adaquate for CD28?
3. power consumption, do I need a seperate batt or solar panel?
4. how/where does the autohelm attach to the tiller?
5. is there a quick release to disconnect autohelm from tiller?
Thanks,
John & Nancy Martin
CD28 #346 'Intrepid'
johnmartin55@hotmail.com
Autohelm/CD28
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Chris Humann
Re: Autohelm/CD28
John & Nancy
I've found the Raytheon autohelm autopilots to work quite well. I just recently upgraded from the ST2000 to the ST4000. The difference being that 2000 is a self contained unit with circuit board, compass and push rod all in one case. The ST4000 has seperate parts with only the push rod exposed to the weather. The circuit board/control head is mounted next to your other instruments (i.e. depth sounder and log) requiring you to drill out a 3.5" diameter hole. The fluxgate compass is mounted somewhere below decks away from any large magnetic sources like the engine and as close to the pitch and role center of the boat as possible. The push rod and compass are wired to the control head which in turn is wired to a 12amp circuit.
If you do a lot of offshore or wet sailing the 4000 is more reliable as the sensitive electronics are out of the weather. I do a lot of single handed, coastal sailing out of san Francisco and rely on the autopilot quite a bit and have heard that the self contained units like the 2000 eventually break if exposed to a lot of weather and spray. For that reason I have just upgraded to the 4000 from the 2000. If most your sailing is dry these units work fine.
Autohelm also has the ST1000 model which is the same self contained model as the 2000 except for lighter displacement boats. My Dana 24 is 8,000lbs and so I originally opted for the 2000 unit. The 4000 is good up to 13000lbs. You can go to the Raytheon web page for more details. My guess is that you want the 2000/4000 model.
Depending on the sea state and how well your boat is balanced both units draw between .5amps and 1amp in auto mode and 60mA on standby. Not very much to warrant worrying about additional batteries and solar charging.
The 1000, 2000 and 4000 push rod are installed between the tiller (via a permanently installed pin) and the starboard comming (via a permanently installed socket). You also need to install the provided power plug close to the drive units and wire it to a 12 amp circuit. The installation is pretty easy. The hard part being snaking the wire from the power plug back to the circuit board.
Disconnecting the push rod from the tiller is just a matter of hitting standby on the unit and then lifting the push rod off the tiller pin. It takes no more than a couple of seconds.
Hope this helps.
Regards
Chris
Berkeley, CA
s/v Carroll E
chumann@pacbell.net
I've found the Raytheon autohelm autopilots to work quite well. I just recently upgraded from the ST2000 to the ST4000. The difference being that 2000 is a self contained unit with circuit board, compass and push rod all in one case. The ST4000 has seperate parts with only the push rod exposed to the weather. The circuit board/control head is mounted next to your other instruments (i.e. depth sounder and log) requiring you to drill out a 3.5" diameter hole. The fluxgate compass is mounted somewhere below decks away from any large magnetic sources like the engine and as close to the pitch and role center of the boat as possible. The push rod and compass are wired to the control head which in turn is wired to a 12amp circuit.
If you do a lot of offshore or wet sailing the 4000 is more reliable as the sensitive electronics are out of the weather. I do a lot of single handed, coastal sailing out of san Francisco and rely on the autopilot quite a bit and have heard that the self contained units like the 2000 eventually break if exposed to a lot of weather and spray. For that reason I have just upgraded to the 4000 from the 2000. If most your sailing is dry these units work fine.
Autohelm also has the ST1000 model which is the same self contained model as the 2000 except for lighter displacement boats. My Dana 24 is 8,000lbs and so I originally opted for the 2000 unit. The 4000 is good up to 13000lbs. You can go to the Raytheon web page for more details. My guess is that you want the 2000/4000 model.
Depending on the sea state and how well your boat is balanced both units draw between .5amps and 1amp in auto mode and 60mA on standby. Not very much to warrant worrying about additional batteries and solar charging.
The 1000, 2000 and 4000 push rod are installed between the tiller (via a permanently installed pin) and the starboard comming (via a permanently installed socket). You also need to install the provided power plug close to the drive units and wire it to a 12 amp circuit. The installation is pretty easy. The hard part being snaking the wire from the power plug back to the circuit board.
Disconnecting the push rod from the tiller is just a matter of hitting standby on the unit and then lifting the push rod off the tiller pin. It takes no more than a couple of seconds.
Hope this helps.
Regards
Chris
Berkeley, CA
s/v Carroll E
chumann@pacbell.net
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Ken Cave
Re: Autohelm/CD28
I can't say enough for the company that makes Autohelm! In the CD28 that I purchased in February, it came with a 2000 unit and a 1000 backup unit.
You guessed it! On the second trip out into the San Juans, the 2000 unit stopped grunting like a pig and started squealing like one!
I called the repair shop for Autohelm and explained that this unit was not under warranty as I was the second owner and it was at least two years old. I even authorized them to debit my credit card with the sum of $300 for the replacement of the motor in the unit!
Two weeks later I have the unit in my hand, no charge, under warranty, and not even a charge for sending it back to me UPS air!!
Can't think of a better company to work with , as this the second time they have done this for me!
The Autohelm 2000 will work perfectly for you if you do not plan to take a around the world trip. It will not work very well in following seas-but none of them do! But, with the backup of an excellent service repair center-you can't lose!
Before your order one from a local West Marine, try pyacht.com first.
I just ordered a Force 10 heater from them and saved over $200 dollars in the process. They also have the Autohelm 2000 for about $200 dollars cheaper than West Marine!!
Hope this helps
Ken Cave
Dragon Tale #227
bcave@whidbey.net
You guessed it! On the second trip out into the San Juans, the 2000 unit stopped grunting like a pig and started squealing like one!
I called the repair shop for Autohelm and explained that this unit was not under warranty as I was the second owner and it was at least two years old. I even authorized them to debit my credit card with the sum of $300 for the replacement of the motor in the unit!
Two weeks later I have the unit in my hand, no charge, under warranty, and not even a charge for sending it back to me UPS air!!
Can't think of a better company to work with , as this the second time they have done this for me!
The Autohelm 2000 will work perfectly for you if you do not plan to take a around the world trip. It will not work very well in following seas-but none of them do! But, with the backup of an excellent service repair center-you can't lose!
Before your order one from a local West Marine, try pyacht.com first.
I just ordered a Force 10 heater from them and saved over $200 dollars in the process. They also have the Autohelm 2000 for about $200 dollars cheaper than West Marine!!
Hope this helps
Ken Cave
Dragon Tale #227
bcave@whidbey.net
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Mike Thompson
Re: Autohelm/CD28
I have a Autohelm ST2000 on my CD28. It is excellent. I have used
in in rough weather for downwind sailing and it handled fine.
I usually don't give it a numerical course to steer but rather
sail manually in the right direction for a while using the loran
to allow for currents then I press [Auto] and it takes over.
On the CD28, the correct place to install will interfer with
the opening of the cockpit locker. Deciding that the machine
was for MY convenience, I installed it on the seat aft of the
cockpit locker so I can just get the locker open when the
Autohelm is in use. (The brass mouting socket is epoxied in a hole
drilled in the seat and doesn't get in the way.) This
installation makes the Autohelm work a fraction harder but
this doesn't seem to matter.
Mike
"Haven" CD28
tmike@ma.ultranet.com
in in rough weather for downwind sailing and it handled fine.
I usually don't give it a numerical course to steer but rather
sail manually in the right direction for a while using the loran
to allow for currents then I press [Auto] and it takes over.
On the CD28, the correct place to install will interfer with
the opening of the cockpit locker. Deciding that the machine
was for MY convenience, I installed it on the seat aft of the
cockpit locker so I can just get the locker open when the
Autohelm is in use. (The brass mouting socket is epoxied in a hole
drilled in the seat and doesn't get in the way.) This
installation makes the Autohelm work a fraction harder but
this doesn't seem to matter.
Mike
"Haven" CD28
John M wrote: I am considering adding a tiller autohelm to our CD28. I would appriciate any dicussion, dialogue, comments, etc. I hav searched the archives, but stll hav a few questions please:
1. any thoughts on wich brand?
2. wich model is adaquate for CD28?
3. power consumption, do I need a seperate batt or solar panel?
4. how/where does the autohelm attach to the tiller?
5. is there a quick release to disconnect autohelm from tiller?
Thanks,
John & Nancy Martin
CD28 #346 'Intrepid'
tmike@ma.ultranet.com
-
Lyn Heiges
Re: Autohelm/CD28
John and Nancy,John M wrote: I am considering adding a tiller autohelm to our CD28. I would appriciate any dicussion, dialogue, comments, etc. I hav searched the archives, but stll hav a few questions please:
1. any thoughts on wich brand?
2. wich model is adaquate for CD28?
3. power consumption, do I need a seperate batt or solar panel?
4. how/where does the autohelm attach to the tiller?
5. is there a quick release to disconnect autohelm from tiller?
Thanks,
John & Nancy Martin
CD28 #346 'Intrepid'
I had the Autohelm 800 which was on MOON CHILD when I purchased her and the previous owners had used it extensively without problems. I was going to replace it with the ST2000 because of the 9000+ weight of the CD28 and the faster response time. I found a Navico 300CX which was virtually identical except for the location of the the "oarlock" socket for the autopilot position in the seat. I installed the "new" oarlock socket the necessary distance further toward the coaming and it worked fine. I then integrated it with my Garmin 215D GPSMAP(I chose the 215D over the 225D for visibility in sunny conditions) and now had the boat making turns and following a set of waypoints to my destinations without my having to really "tinker" with the tiller. Due to the simple attachment arrangement of the drive arm to the tiller, the drive arm "pops off" the tiller instantly, if required. Now I have added a Navico handheld controller which allows me to monitor the XTE (cross track error), speed (from the GPS), compass heading and read the values in use for the "gain" and "sea state" settings. We added a second location to connect this controller, so we can also monitor it from the Grand Salon during less than perfect weather. (WE DO MAINTAIN A PRUDENT WATCH DURING THESE TIMES!) We sail in the Gulf of Mexico and around the Tampa Bay area a couple of times a week or more and love this device. A friend who owns a CD27 was really impressed when we sailed out of St. Petersburg Yacht Club, down Tampa Bay, and went right under the center of the Sunshine Skyway and over to Egmont Key all by waypoints and we just trimmed the sails!
Integrating the GPS has been a real boon to me and we also use it to feed the coordinates for the Standard Horizon Intrepid VHF with DSC. We also carry a Garmin 45XL which can be used instead of the 215D in case of need.
Good Luck with your project!
Lyn Heiges
MOON CHILD
CD28 #307
lheiges@compuserve.com