V-drive wisdom needed

seadog6532 · Post by **seadog6532** » Dec 6th, '10, 10:43

We are in Tarpon Springs in a marina while we try to sort out our V-drive trouble. We had water get in through a pin hole in the coolant tube that we have since replaced. On our passage from Apalachacola to Tarpon Springs it started to froth and leak from the vent tube. Fortunately we had a 150+ mile beam reach so did not have to motor until the last little bit to the marina. After draining and flushing the unit several times we have found it to be making metal and feel it is about to fail, though is it not making noise or getting hot. Any and all wisdom or V-drive knowledge is welcome

Joe Mac Phee · Post by **Joe Mac Phee** » Dec 6th, '10, 12:08

My 1977 Cape Dory ketch has the Walter v-drive coupled to a Yanmar YSB-12.

I had this unit apart a few years ago to fix a seal leak. I have a diagram of the inside that I got from Walter. It is a simple device with a pair of spur gears to provide the gear ratio and a "universal joint" to provide the v angle. Mine is coupled to the engine with a splined shaft. It is simple to remove by uncoupling the propellor drive shaft and removing the nuts that connect to the engine flange.

I assume your expression that the drive is producing metal means you have metal shavings in the lubricating oil. Given you cooling water leak, I would guess that your shavings are coming from one of the bearings.

I would not be afaid to remove the unit, disassemble it, and replace any damaged bearings. The bearings should be available from Walter or from a local bearing shop. I obtained gaskets from Walter, but you could also use Hylomar or Permatex as a sealer.

Good luck,

Joe Mac Phee

seadog6532 · Post by **seadog6532** » Dec 6th, '10, 14:57

We called Walter Machine co.and we're going to pull the V-drive and send it in for a factory rebuild. They said they should be able to rebuild it to factory new spec. for around $500.00 plus shipping, with about a 3 day turn around. We will follow up with a blow by blow of the removal, rebuild and re-install.

seadog6532 · Post by **seadog6532** » Dec 8th, '10, 09:16

The removal is done and the unit is on the way to Walter Machine Co. It took about 1 hour and 40 minuets to remove from the time I got out the tool bag to sitting on the pier. Remove the shift cable, remove the exhaust can, remove 2 coolant hoses, unbolt 3 prop shaft flange bolts, and remove 6 bolts from the transmission flange and the unit is out. No cussing or tool throwing involved. All in all not too bad of a job to do. The unit should be at Walter Machine on friday and we should know if it needs a standard rebuild or more work by early next week.

Glen C · Post by **Glen C** » Dec 8th, '10, 14:45

...let me know, i have v-drive/transmission off of an MD7A sitting in my garage. It was working when I removed it about 10 years ago.

GeorgeH · Post by **GeorgeH** » Dec 8th, '10, 17:23

As a relatively new, cape dory/ inboard sailboat, owner I am trying to learn all I can about inboard diesel engines. I am starting to feel comfortable with the front part of the engine, but what exactly is a v-drive, do they need routine maintenance, and do I have on on my Volvo MD7B?

seadog6532 · Post by **seadog6532** » Dec 8th, '10, 19:54

Hey George
You don't have a V-drive on a CD28. The V-drive allows the engine to be placed backwards to save space. It was used on the CD30 because it was offered with a ketch rig and space was needed for the mizzen compression post. The v-drive reverses the direction of the engines rotation to align the backward facing engine with the prop shaft.

darmoose · Post by **darmoose** » Dec 8th, '10, 22:58

seadog6532 wrote:Hey George
You don't have a V-drive on a CD28. The V-drive allows the engine to be placed backwards to save space. It was used on the CD30 because it was offered with a ketch rig and space was needed for the mizzen compression post. The v-drive reverses the direction of the engines rotation to align the backward facing engine with the prop shaft.

I have a CD30k with a V-drive (Mystic Rose #122) and the mizzen compression post is behind the engine. The V drive is in front of the engine, which pushes the engine back towards the compression post at least 12-14 inches further than it would be if the engine and the transmission were reversed ( I wish every time I have to crawl in there to work on something that they had never come up with that V-drive)

I thought they did it to push the engine to the rear to gain cabin space, no?

Good luck with your repairs

Darrell

GeorgeH · Post by **GeorgeH** » Dec 9th, '10, 06:38

Thanks, all, for the helpful information. This website is an incredible resource and has saved me hours of research and stress - I don't know what I would do without it!
GH

Sea Hunt · Post by **Sea Hunt** » Dec 18th, '10, 20:20

darmoose wrote:I have a CD30k with a V-drive (Mystic Rose #122) and the mizzen compression post is behind the engine. The V drive is in front of the engine, which pushes the engine back towards the compression post at least 12-14 inches further than it would be if the engine and the transmission were reversed ( I wish every time I have to crawl in there to work on something that they had never come up with that V-drive) Darrell

Darrell and all:

Don't nobody go read nuttin into this question. It's just educattin me.

From your post, I would conclude it is VERY difficult to work on a diesel engine (Volvo MD7A 13HP, circa 1986) installed in a CD 30 cutter rig (no mizzen) with V-drive. From my limited exposure to sailboat diesel maintenance, it is difficult at best when things are in front of you. With the engine "pointing" to the rear I would assume things like oil checks (and changes), changing the impeller, etc., would be even more difficult assuming these items would now be located at or near the aft end of the engine compartment.

Thoughts

I wish everyone a Safe and Happy Holiday Season

seadog6532 · Post by **seadog6532** » Dec 19th, '10, 11:39

Most maintenance is simpler with the v-drive. It's hard to check the oil because you can't see the dip stick, but to change oil in the transmission or va drive is very simple as is changing the impeller. the compression post is a pain when you have to work on the front of the engine, but I find I don't have to do much from that side.

darmoose · Post by **darmoose** » Dec 28th, '10, 03:52

So, Mark and Anna

How's about an update? Where are you and how did things go with the tranny repairs? Hopefully you were successful?

Darrell

seadog6532 · Post by **seadog6532** » Dec 28th, '10, 17:41

We got back to the boat yesterday after spending 2 weeks with family for Christmas. The V-drive was waiting for us when we got here and I installed it this morning with no trouble. A test with the boat in the slip was also uneventful, just ran it in gear both forward and reverse. We will be leaving here soon and are thinking about heading to Clearwater just to make it a short first trip for a shake down. If all is sucesfull we will continue heading south. We still don't know if we're going East or West from the Keys.

The Cape Dory Board

V-drive wisdom needed

V-drive wisdom needed

v-drive

An update

if it is beyond repair...

What exactly is a v-drive?

Really?

Thanks!

Re: Really?

Update?